I've had a few discussions with people about building a full floating rear axle over the last few months. Rather than PM everyone individually, I just thought I'd put the build process up here.
I won't start this off with a detailed analysis of the pros and cons of full float conversion - if you want one, you know why.
This is a build based on a WT sierra WMS finished width. That's what my jig was built for.
It's not a for sale thread. I do have adapter plates available at cost. if you are interested, and I can hook you up with axle lengths based on this cut. I'm not advertising my services as someone who will do this for you.
Here's the start - A regular width Vitara rear axle housing with the coil seats and control arm/shock mounts removed. I remove the control arm/shock mount assembly with a plasma cutter. I cut the coil seats off with a 1mm cutting disc as they get re used and I like to keep some on hand.
Here's the next step. Cut the bearing block off the SHORT side of the Vitara housing. This is the LEFT HAND SIDE with the diff up the same way it was in the vitara. Check this more than once before you fire up the grinder. Cut the weld out running straight down the bearing block edge. don't cut right through, just take the weld out. You'll want to measure accurately off of the existing axle tube end.
There is no need to clean up the axletube on this side - it's getting cut down.
Knock the bearing block off of the axle tube.
Mark the tube 164mm back from the end of the existing tube.
And cut the tube. It needs to be accurate, but not insanely accurate - the bearing block is a very tight fit so it would be almost impossible to put back on out of square. You'll need to polish the tube down a little to get the bearing block started when you tap it back on.
Now you can knock in the seal adapter. This sits where the old wheelbearing used to go. I heated the bearing block and put the seal adapter in the freezer to install them.
This is a blurry pic (sorry) but you can also see where I've ground off the old lip that used to locate the backing plate. It's not required. Do this carefully - you don't want to dig into the bearing block or the adapter plate won't go on flat.
Here's a sharper photo of the other end before the seal adapter was pressed in.
The spindle adapter can then be bolted to the bearing block using 8mm bolts. Torque these up to spec and polish the ends down so they are flush with the spindle adapter.
This is when I set the housing up in my jig. I think it's possible to do this job without a jig, but you'd have to do LOTS Of measuring.
Here's the adapter bolted to the bearing block and installed in the jig for welding.
And the axlehousing sitting in the jig
The bearing block welded to the axle tube.
I weld the heads of the bolts down, just so they can't fall out and it looks all neat once it's been buffed up. You'll note this is the "long" side that hasn't been cut - that's the original axletube to bearing block weld.
Then the adapter plate can be welded to the bearing block.
Then the adapter plate can be welded to the bearing block.
Whilst the axle is in the jig there's quite a bit more work to do though...
