[inbits]

i thought id put this up fir the noobs to the mechanical world
this was done on a 2 litre vitara v6.The same method is used to do this on all cars but oil capacity, oil filter, oil filter location will differ

tools required
17MM spanner
oil filter remover tool
oil drain pan
some rags
oil
nulon engine oil flush
and a funnel for those without steady hands.



First off pour a bottle of nulon engine oilf flush in the oil filler and run the car make sure you read the instructions!

after the engine has been run drain the oil into a drain pan


once the oil has drained refit the drain plug then remove the oil filter NOTE; when you remove the oil filter oil will spill out.

pull the seal off the new oil filter and coat it with oil the reinstall it in the filter and fit it up to the engine.

Refill the engine with oil up to the full line on the dipstick start the engine and run it for15-20 seconds. recheck the oil level and your adjust accordingly
DO NOT FILL THE ENGINE UP UNTIL YOU CAN SEE IT IN THE FILL HOLE I HAVE SEEN THIS DONE.

[S13RR4]

For those the don't have a filter remover (as sometimes you can get it undone by hand) hammering a screw driver through the filter will give you enough torque to loosen it (this is a little more messy as more oil spills out)

[lump_a_charcoal]

One thing I would add is to write the date on the oil filter.

Also, find out where to take your used oil form your local council, because one litre of dumped oil can pollute over one million litres of ground water.

[S13RR4]

lump_a_charcoal wrote:

One thing I would add is to write the date on the oil filter.

Also, find out where to take your used oil form your local council, because one litre of dumped oil can pollute over one million litres of ground water.

Oil can usually be disposed of and your local dump or refuse station, failing that your local mechanic could be an option.

But could idea like Lumpy said to find out before you start.

[inbits]

or use it to paint your paling fence its great termite protection

[lumpy_zook]

Another tip is fill the oil filter with oil before you fit it.
Let's it soak into the paper, reducing the chance of a dry start after the change.

[Bazooka]

Nice post but you might want to also educate people about a dipstick. Over the years I have seen many cars filled to the top with oil and also on 3 occassions ..people trying to refil the oil using the diptsick tube.

Also the burn factor with hot engine oil!

Good job though !

[inbits]

For the people looking for their dipstick its the yellow handle to the right of the screen the filler is the one with the cap removed.

Like i said in my first post dont fill it untill you can see the oil in the filler

To lumpy zook thats another good tip i personally have never done this but it makes sense to do so

[laurie]

i am cheap so i use 100ml of kero as oil system flush every second change.
(diesel also works)
i also put a cap full of kero in the bucket every time i wash the car.

[TheOtherLeft]

Is Nulon Oil flush just expensive kero?

[whincup]

lumpy_zook wrote:

Another tip is fill the oil filter with oil before you fit it.

i was thinking exactly the same thing while reading this. although, its not a necessity, more a recommendation...

other than that,

[Luka]

Hey, Thax alot for posting this man. I Sorta know how to change oil but its good to see an actual step by step Guide with great pictures im sure you helped someone. Sure helped me i didnt know you had to put oil Flush in the engin fill hole. | use to just drain the old oil and add new oil and new filter, and now i know. Thankyou.

[laurie]

Luka wrote:

Hey, Thax alot for posting this man. I Sorta know how to change oil but its good to see an actual step by step Guide with great pictures im sure you helped someone. Sure helped me i didnt know you had to put oil Flush in the engin fill hole. | use to just drain the old oil and add new oil and new filter, and now i know. Thankyou.

you don't have to flush the engine every time.
but a good flush will clean out the oil ways inside your engine.
allowing the new oil to flow more freely and stay clean longer.

here is a test that costs around $25 or so.
best done with a few mates around.
change your oil and filter (use cheap oil).
run engine for 5 min then get everyone to check how clean the oil is.
put in commercial oil flush or kero , diesel then run for 5 min.
do a full oil and filter change (use good oil)
see what the oil you take out looks like.

[lumpy_zook]

back in the day i bought a ke 70 from a old bitty that she had driven on a daly basis for 4 odd years, and she never had the oil changed.. cos i asked her how many times, her answer was 'i didnt know you had to'

when i got it, i did the oil flush, drove it for 500km, did another and it was still gummy and thick coming out, near on like tar..

did another 4 oil flushes with 500km driven in between each one till it came clean.

it is a good way of seeing how the motor has been treated and what the service history was like for it.

[banga]

laurie wrote:

i also put a cap full of kero in the bucket every time i wash the car.

this is apparently very good for your paint or you just get a car wash with canubra oil in it spelling might be off but you get the picture.

[truongski]

Quick question - How tight you you guys do up the oil filter. If you need to use an oil filter removal tool it must be f'n tight. Or is it because you can't get your hand in there to get it out?

In the past I've only tightened it enough so I can undo it by hand. It is worth tightening it further?

[Scrawny]

Hand tight is fine for car filters.

If the previous filter wasn't lubed before being fitted then the seal tends to bite onto the mounting surface. When that happens they're a real bastard to get off!

[truongski]

Scrawn wrote:

Hand tight is fine for car filters.

If the previous filter wasn't lubed before being fitted then the seal tends to bite onto the mounting surface. When that happens they're a real bastard to get off!

That's awesome. Cheers Scrawn

[inbits]

Luka wrote:

Hey, Thax alot for posting this man. I Sorta know how to change oil but its good to see an actual step by step Guide with great pictures im sure you helped someone. Sure helped me i didnt know you had to put oil Flush in the engin fill hole. | use to just drain the old oil and add new oil and new filter, and now i know. Thankyou.

I'm glad this helped

Just so everyones on the same page you don't have to use the engine oil flush. I use it with every oil change because in the h series engine they run a timing chain and the tensioners are oil fed. The oil feeds to these tensioners are very small and block up very easily and cause a horrid timing chain rattle, using the engine oil flush keeps the engine oil clean preventing these blockages this also helps with engine life. My h20a v6 has just under 280 000 klms and has no rattles and is still very strong.
I also run diesel oil in my cars because the added detergents to keep a diesel engine clean help with keeping a petrol engine cleaner. I have been doing this for quite some time without problems.

Inbits

[skyman]

Quote:

I also run diesel oil in my cars because the added detergents to keep a diesel engine clean help with keeping a petrol engine cleaner. I have been doing this for quite some time without problems.

This is excellent advice. Here diesel oil is cheaper, and you can get it by th gallon almost anywhere. Diesel engines go longer between changes and do way way more miles before a rebuild. They demand a better oil than what the average car uses.

It is kind of weird, but here they also removed some of the good stuff from regular automotive oil citing some pollution as the reason. The diesel oils still have the additives, because they require it to get the mileage out of their engines. Diesel oil is much better than the regular stuff.

Thanks for the write up. I learned to put oil on the o-ring/gasket of the oil filter, and that a flush is a good idea. I never flush any of my cars oils before.

Thanks for taking the time to school me. armsup

[Jason]

Good info. Thanks.

I also try and put a new sump plug washer on with each oil change. Can get fibre ones in assorted size packs of 10 from SCA. i think the brass olive type ones are better but not seen them here.

And I know it's probably a bit but I use gloves too. Disposable latex jobbies. Less oil burns and that used oil is a bit carcenogenic too.

[skyman]

Ya know a magnetic drain plug would be the go too. even though our block are aluminum some bearings, types of dust, and parts are not ;D

[inbits]

I work with oil and stuff every day oil font bother me anymore

[TheOtherLeft]

Jason wrote:

I also try and put a new sump plug washer on with each oil change. Can get fibre ones in assorted size packs of 10 from SCA. i think the brass olive type ones are better but not seen them here.

I used to use fibre washers but would always have to retighten them after a couple of weeks as it would work loose. I've since bought some aluminium washers from the US (ridiculously cheaper then local - Suzistore, Suzuki etc) as they aren't available at most car shops eg SCA. They stay tight until I loosen them.

[sando]

skyman wrote:

Quote:

I also run diesel oil in my cars because the added detergents to keep a diesel engine clean help with keeping a petrol engine cleaner. I have been doing this for quite some time without problems.

This is excellent advice. Here diesel oil is cheaper, and you can get it by th gallon almost anywhere. Diesel engines go longer between changes and do way way more miles before a rebuild. They demand a better oil than what the average car uses.

It is kind of weird, but here they also removed some of the good stuff from regular automotive oil citing some pollution as the reason. The diesel oils still have the additives, because they require it to get the mileage out of their engines. Diesel oil is much better than the regular stuff.

Thanks for the write up. I learned to put oil on the o-ring/gasket of the oil filter, and that a flush is a good idea. I never flush any of my cars oils before.

Thanks for taking the time to school me. armsup

Generally on older diesels they require more frequent changes about every 5thou newer engines can be stretched upwards of 15thou pretty impressive really. Also it may not be required to run an engine flush if you are running diesel oil, however I wouldn't really recommend this as a common practice. It may make the engine run cleaner however engines bed-in a certain way and as you get higher in the k's cleaning out all the carbon may cause excessive wear. Good write up though, makes the less confident members on here save money on labour.

[303zuke]

skyman wrote:

Ya know a magnetic drain plug would be the go too. even though our block are aluminum some bearings, types of dust, and parts are not ;D

A cheap option I have used on many of my vehicles over the years is the "Doughnut" shaped magnet from the back of a speaker. Just fit it to the outside of the sump around the drain plug and it will attract metal filings on the inside of the sump. Remove it when you're about to drain the oil, and the filings will wash out through the drain hole.

Re-fit the magnet when you retighten the drain plug and you're protected again!

The magnet can also be used on steel diff housings and cars that have steel case gearboxes.

[shandy92]

just be careful with using diesel oils, make sure it doesnt have "ash removal" properties, or similar. it will do as "sando" said, basically over clean the engine and you will start to blow smoke and use oil. this happens because the diesel oil is removing the fine ash/soot that is on the cylinder which doesnt get removed/scrapped by the oil scrapper rings, therefore allowing oil to then get past the rings (because the ash/soot is no longer in the run-in position) and enter the combustion chamber and sent out the exhaust.

if that doesnt make sense....sorry but i tried.

[SSSIERA]

idk if this is any help to anyone but. if ya go into your local cat dealer. you can get these littl oil cannisters. basically. when u drain the oil. at about mid stream you fill the cannister up (about 10 20 mls) and take it back to the cat dealer. they send it of to there chemistry labs and put it through a mass spectrometer. (if ya dont no what it is google it there prety cool if ya into science) then they send you back a report of what exactly is in your oil (down to point 000 of a mg. and what percentages and it is in. by doing this you can see what parts of your engine are degrading faster than other.

my bro is a heavy deisel mechanic at westrack aparently they do this to all equipment every 10000. though i belive it will cost you about 75-100 bucks for the test kit. but i recomend it

[colinwen]

I also have change my oil and filter by myself in the past 3 yrs with my GV (SQ420).
The most annoy thing is the location of oil filter.
I feel its quite difficult to access either from the top or bottom, and either by right hand or left hand.
Don't know if anyone has some trick to access the filter.

Colin

[fordem]

I find a "cap style" filter wrench on a couple of extensions from underneath works well - if the front axle (or mount) seems to be in your way, you need another extension.