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az supporter
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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:41 am 
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The intake valve on number 1 cylinder..

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:45 am 
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No on Number 4 - I think - OK are you all counting from the front - Radiator end - as number 1 or from the gearbox end as number 1?

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:40 am 
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Please Do not get me wrong I am just trying to work out what the hell is going on with my car and G16B EFI engines in Vitara cars.

This link shows a good animation of a 4 stroke internal combustion engine and clearly shows that both the inlet and exhaust valves are closed when the spark plug fires.

http://www.animatedengines.com/otto.html

This is a fact that has gone on ever since this type of engine has been around which is a lot longer than any of us.

I am taking the front cylinder (the one at the radiator end) as number 1

Now – A distributor, regardless of the mechanism underneath, is only a mechanical means of sending the spark from the coil through the rotor button and out the cap along the intended lead and into the spark-plug creating an ignition point for the fuel which is under compression because BOTH valves are shut and the piston is at or near the top of the cylinder.

So in most 4 cylinder engines 1 and 4 pistons come to the top at the same time except while one is on its compression stroke the other is on its exhaust stroke.

If I follow the manual (Page somewhere above) to set the distributor how/why can/would the rotor be pointing at number 4 spark plug lead when that cylinder is at the top of its exhaust stroke.

I just ask someone to answer that famous question “Please Explain”

It is over 40C in the shade here so I am not working on the car at the moment.

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:54 am 
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You sure that scan of the fsm is correct? that last pic on it is wrong as the dizzy is on the incorrect side and it looks like a pressed steel rocker cover.

The ignition spark will start BTDC (before top dead center) on the compression stroke. Usually measured in degrees advance so say 10deg. This gives timme for the explosion to get its most energy and when that is done the crank would have rotated passed TDC and heading down.

As for cylinder numbers, its normally the first cylinder closed to the front, example a ecotec v6 the passenger bank is number one on the front because that is the most forwardest cylinder.

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:56 am 
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tonyevans wrote:

I just ask someone to answer that famous question “Please Explain”
.



It just is :wink:

Either do it the way everyone is saying and get a different result or keep replacing parts for the same result.

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:59 am 
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So set it on cylinder one compression, face rotor button to cylinder 1 on dizzy cap, leave dizzy loose and rotate body to advance/retard while someone cranks engine.

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 12:00 pm 
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Keep with the basics Tony like you already know. Who cares if the front or rear cylinder is stated as no1 . All you need to setup is either front or rear cylinder at TDC with the rockers "on the rock" and the dizzy rotor pointing to this cylinder, then just follow the 1324 firing order using the setup cylinder as the first.

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 12:01 pm 
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shep wrote:
tonyevans wrote:

I just ask someone to answer that famous question “Please Explain”
.



It just is :wink:

Either do it the way everyone is saying and get a different result or keep replacing parts for the same result.


There lays the problem Everyone is not saying the same - So which is number one cylinder when you time one?

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 12:04 pm 
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Another thing I have just realised is that the distributor gear has 13 teeth so it can only work in ONE position so I think this explains the FSM set-up procedure - Comments?

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 12:08 pm 
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JrZook wrote:
Keep with the basics Tony like you already know. Who cares if the front or rear cylinder is stated as no1 . All you need to setup is either front or rear cylinder at TDC with the rockers "on the rock" and the dizzy rotor pointing to this cylinder, then just follow the 1324 firing order using the setup cylinder as the first.


1-3-4-2

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 12:20 pm 
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The scan is correct, everyone else is confused


IF you have the rocker cover off, bottom pulley on TDC and ALL valves on no1 closed (so rockers have no pressure on them and you can move them) then the dissy will point to number 1

at the same time, the timing marks on the cam pullies WIIL NOT be lined up

you can set a dissy up on any cylinder you want as long as you have it at TDC of its compression stroke, the only time the cam timing comes into it for us is the CAM TIMING is done on number 4, nothing to do with IGNITION TIMING so if you try to time the engine this way you get it wrong, Tony is not doing it this way

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 12:30 pm 
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Thank you. I will do it as the manual says in the morning and ??????????????????

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 3:29 pm 
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vrrroooooom!!!!

Hopefully

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 1:00 pm 
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I guess his problem is solved

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 1:25 pm 
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No its not - Its been 40+ every day here so have not done much and besides when I took the rocker cover off I found that some cheapskate instead of buying a set of seals they decided to use Bog and "O" rings and silicone to stop the oil leaking into the plug holes - It did work to a degree but it has taken hours to get it all of the cover without damaging it.

The weather forecast says its going to cool down at the end of the week so I will get back to it then.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:15 am 
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Well – It goes at last – The problem was the CAS in the distributor but the reason why it would not start after I put the new (second-hand) one in was I was 1 tooth out on the timing gear when installing the distributor.

Just to confirm the timing method shown in the FSM – If you follow these instructions then the rotor is pointing at Number 1 (Front) cylinder and the leads should be set from that.

Thank you to all who helped with their comments and a special thanks to Wazz for the distributor (I owe you one mate). You don’t by chance have a LJ50 bonnet do you :rofl:

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:23 am 
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I love a happy ending :woohoo:

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:40 am 
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Armsup

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:34 am 
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Now sell it.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 10:27 am 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
Now sell it.

Na! I know all about it now :rofl:

Now to find out why the Air-Con clutch don't kick in :cry:

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:13 am 
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Run a jumper wire from battery direct to clutch to check it functions. If it engages correctly you are probably low on gas.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:27 am 
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want33s wrote:
Run a jumper wire from battery direct to clutch to check it functions. If it engages correctly you are probably low on gas.

Is that the single Black heavy wire Jas? The light on the dash button comes on but the centre of the pulley does not turn when the motor is running?

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:35 pm 
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The clutch has a single power wire usually with a spade connector 6 inches or so from the compressor.
Unplug it from loom and manually power it up.... Clutch should engage.
If clutch works then turn AC on with engine running and bridge the TX valve near the receiver/dryer and see if clutch engages.
If it does you have a high or more likely, low pressure (or none) in the system.
Leak test and refill time.
You can do it yourself like I do with gas and tools available cheaply on Ebay.com (USA).
PM me if you want further details.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 3:08 pm 
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I winged it.... align dot and mark on dizzy gear and dizzy body, set of top dead on the balancer, drop dizzy in and VrrrOoooom.

Good to see we both ended up with working dizzys tony :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 3:17 pm 
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Good one Wazz - We will all now how next time :woohoo:

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