[SierraDan]

Good to see good info get shared on the forum

[BlueSuzy]

SierraDan wrote:

Good to see good info get shared on the forum

I concur

[jimny_timmy]

Haha I forgot about this shit fight... Just had another giggle over it

[SierraDan]

Oh is this the thread? Haha. Mad.

[rob45x]

ill just throw in my 2 cents worth....

Ok so here goes. This is the combination of shocks I've found that work with my leafy sierra with a 2 inch lift .

For the front Gabriel 81416 and they measure 294mm compressed and 472mm fully extended.

For the rear i used Gabriel 81147 and they measure 314mm compressed and 513mm fully extended.

Got them from supercheap auto and all up they cost me $142.64 on special.
Also note that these shocks are discontinued and may be hard to find so you may need to cross reference them.

Any help feel free to pm. Cheers !

[2stroker]

Yeah rob45x they sound good, I checked the numbers you pm'd me and you are right the 81416 are corolla wagon rear, I also checked the 81147 number for you and they appear to be B Series Mazda 2wd ute rears. Lengths sound good for your application.

[Teracis]

Just read through this whole thread, it was a two beer thread well actually should have been three but I was too busy reading to get another...
Doing some research to work out what shocks I should use on Daisy however after reading this I've decided I need to do it like this:

1. Work out the length between the stock upper shock mount and the lower shock mount I'm installing (two possible positions) while on the stock bump stop and compare this to the stock Sierra bump stop shock length of 310mm (Still talking about the front, will get to the back later with basically the same process.) Stock Sierra bump stock shock length should be the absolute minimum to aim for between these points.
2. Determine maximum required extended length between the same points chosen in step 2 using stock shackles and 65mm EFS springs with RUF in the front and 65mm EFS springs in the rear. Currently as they arrive from the factory with no leaves removed, testing may be required on this however a jack should be able to get to the limit caused by the springs before deforming the spring, this is the limit to use afaik.
3. Decide on a lower shock mount position and which shocks to use determined by the information collected in the previous steps. With not having to space the bump stops as a priority over droop. (I anticipate the spring plate and probable bump stop positioning will actually be causing a small bump stop spacing already compared to stock however whether or not the vehicle can touch even the new bump stops on full flex is not going to be able to be tested until after the fact so presumption is that it can.)
4. If no suitable shock can be determined in step 3 or there is a lot of droop travel lost due to stock shock towers, determine best shock configuration for required travel and design/install new upper shock mounts to suit.
5. Confirm that bump stop spacing is not required to keep tyres from scrubbing or contacting bodywork or other.
6. Mount it all up.

Is that everything? I don't think I've missed anything in there, it's basically just a lot of measuring, thinking, working out and then checking to determine the correct setup, along with choosing a shock with a suitable valving for a Suzuki Sierra.
Does anyone have the maximum droop limit caused by the spring for a 65mm EFS spring in a Sierra? At least that would give me a starting point, although as stated I can just put the jack in and watch the whole thing but stop before creasing or damaging the spring pack.
I am assuming that ideally if there's enough travel gained by the new spring configuration I will need to install the upper shock mounts as high as possible in order to be able to install a shock with enough travel not to be the limiting factor.
Which is better for shocks? Eye to pin or eye to eye?

Also, good tech in this thread, keep it up!