[dono1]

Will a g13ba head fit/work on a g13 block?
I can get a cheap g13b motor with a cracked head and just wanna swap my g13ba head and gas setup onto it for the stronger i ternals if its possible.

[fordem]

The answer would depend on what you consider to be a G13b and a G13ba - most people consider the G13b to be the DOHC 16v GTi engine, and the G13ba to be the SOHC 8v - however, I've seen (and in fact own) a G13b engine which is 8v SOHC.

Make a long story short - yes you can swap the heads - you will need to match the pistons to the head - 4 valve per cylinder head, 4 valve per cylinder pistons, and so on - be aware the rods are also different and need to match the pistons - 4 valve per cylinder pistons take a floating wrist pin with circlips, 2 valve per cylinder are press fit.

At the end of the day, the only parts other than the block itself (which is the same on either engine) that can really be reused are the crank & the crank girdle (or stiffeners) - yes - they will swap, but there is not much point in it unless you're building some sort of forced induction motor, stock internals are adequate.

[dono1]

I want to build a turbo'd straight gas a I have the gas setup and turbo already but I don't want to destroy another stok motor.
The g13b is the DOHC version from a swift.

[Santos]

Maybe a little late reply but i'm like 80% certain that 16 valve gti pistons will still run and clear in a 8valve head wth the G13BA being a non-inteference', Redlinegti.com or teamswift.net could confirm it. If not STD vitara pistons fit on GTI rods but you need to bore it ut to 75mm (stock is 74mm) Vitara pistns are what they use in USA/Canada when rebuilding factory suzuki g10T turbo motors

As a straight head swap you probably get a slightly stronger motor and be able to safely hold higher revs for longer. Sierra conrods are as thick as GTi (8v swift rods are slimmer) BUT the circlip piston pins of the gti are 19mm instead of the 17mm pressed ones. I've never managed to get my stock 1.3l to sit above 5000rpm when under load anyway though so moving a redline from 6500rpm to 7500rpm is trivial.

Another difference is the GTI crank is 3kgs heavier than a 8v one. i have weighed them personally. If our current engine is dying put the gti one in. If you are serious about chasing boost go for it but i think most would council wait for a g16b less hassle and greater degree of technical assistance available on this forum.

For interest sake there are only two engine blocks A and B, B has extra external mounting holes for knock sensor and Accesories (A/C, poer steer etc) and both have their capacitiy moulded on the block (1324cc & 1298cc)
BA is usually just an 8v B an BB is a SOHC 16v

I'm not building a forced induction motor but am picking up my machined engine block this afternoon. I'm mixing various factory components in a G13A block , going with vitara pistons, gti rods and g13A crank. Decided the slightly longer stroke of the original lighter crank (77mm vs 75.5mm) is more desiarable so i can bag as many CC's as possible. It may not even put the power out of a 8v G16a but it should be the most robust 8v carb cofiguration that will bolt in without adaptors, fuel tanks and other considerations to fret about! Only have chosen the g13A block as its the original motor in my LWB and it will simplify the paperwork when i put herback on the road, if that wasn't a consideration i would of started with a G13B/BA block to get the extra external options.