[Donkey]

Hey guys, I love me car (98 Sierra coily) and am keen to have a pro to swap the engine to a baleno 1.6l efi, work would be done in Perth. I’ve rang round and have been quoted 10k drive in drive out, which I’m happy to pay as long as it is reasonable. Is it a fair price? I’ve searched around and not found an answer that is recent. Cheers

[Gwagensteve]

I know we're in a brave new world of Sierra pricing, but I've been mulling this over an $10K sounds like a lot to me.

$10K would want to be an absolutely top notch conversion, all legal paperwork/inspection etc done, and with absolutely no corners cut.

I'd also want to see the results of a compression and leak down test on the engine, and probably the valve stem seals, water pump, timing belt etc replaced, and a warranty on the motor, commencing when you get the car, not when the workshop got the engine.

I think you need to ask LOTS of questions about what your $10K is getting you.

What version of G16B? Vitara? Coil Pack Baleno? Hybrid Baleno/Jimny manifolds?

Will the VSS, Tach and Check Engine light be properly integrated into the dash?

What clutch will you be getting?

What fuel tank? I'd assume a new Maruti tank with a vitara/baleno swimmer pump with a new pump

How will be cooling system be managed? There is lots of tech on here and elsewhere about G series cooling. Will the heater tap be swapped to a bypass style to mimic a vitara? If it's a baleno motor, will the outlet on the back of the block be retained?

Will you be getting a new viscous Vitara fan?

Will the Sierra sump be modified to accept the Baleno crank angle sensor?

Does this include an all-new exhaust manifold and system, including a new cat?

I'd have to say, I genuinely don't think a $10K conversion could meet my expectations unless it was very comprehensively documented and there were lots of new genuine (or high-end aftermarket) parts included.

[rexhunta]

Id want a brand new 0 km Baleno for 10k !

Was it through Suzishop ?

[Beery]

I haven't completed the conversion personally, but I recently helped a friend convert a coily to a baleno coil pack motor and had a quite a lot to do with it, so i'll weigh in.

An entire baleno was purchased as the donor car - $900 - 99 model, 240 000 km's.

The rest of the bits needed to make it work - New clutch, new starter, 90 degree thermostat housing, timing belt, exhaust manifold, gaskets, seals, radiator hose's. I'd estimate around $1000 - $1200

Note, the car was already a g16a, so we didn't need to purchase the adapter plate and it already had a viscous fan. (a worthwhile upgrade) This would've added roughly $250. The car had a long range fuel tank fitted, so this was modified to accept the baleno fuel pump, further keeping costs down.

So for around $2000 the car is running and driving. There were no labour costs involved for us, we were able to modify the sump, fabricate the exhaust, modify the fuel tank etc...

The conversion is reasonable, it's certainly not the neatest but far from the worst. There are a few things that don't meet my personal standards - Things like the factory coily aircon have been put on the backburner ( like that will ever get done now) The tacho/ check engine light aren't yet functional, I'm not a fan of the airbox situation (cheap pod filter enclosure), Where the wiring enters the cab and how the computer is mounted. All these things are fixable but all too often they are overlooked/not worried about and if your not mechanically minded, you may not even be able to tell if the conversion is up to scratch or not.

I understand we were able to get it done quite cheap and it's not perfect, but geez, for another 8k I don't think I could justify it. It really is a very simple conversion for anyone who has experience with engine conversions or someone who has done their research.

As Steve said, it would have to be an extremely top notch, factory spec conversion.
A general idea of what that means for me is - A fully de-pinned loom with all the extra stuff you don't need gone, no sign of inline blade fuses, no relays tek screwed into the guards, no solder joints in the middle of the loom, no rubbish supercheap spec terminals crimped on with needles nose pliers, The loom needs to enter the cab with a proper grommet that hasn't been spliced open or damaged in anyway and the ECU needs to be secured properly out of harms way. I would really want to make sure the wiring is done properly, That's where a lot of nightmares will come from down the track.

- Use a vitara viscous fan, with shroud. No thermo fan(s), especially not with an aftermarket controller.

- New fuel tank with an in tank pump, wired into the ECU. No external, 1000 decibel thing that's tek screwed to the chassis rail that's wired straight to IGN power.

- keep the factory airbox and use a factory style inlet hose to connect it up. (I believe these are available) Personally I would upgrade to a new Donaldson style airbox and connect it in a similar manner, these are available in many configurations and aren't overly expensive but need work to make them fit. If I turned up to collect the car and the airbox was connected with some blue silicone or some ag pipe spec hose, I'd probably cry. If blatantly obvious stuff like this is done, it makes you question the rest of the conversion too.

-If your car has aircon, I would expect it to be fully functional.

-Check engine light, VSS, tacho, OBD2 scanner plug should also be all integrated.

-Any general service items should be done while the conversion is happening. Timing belt, clutch, any suspect gaskets/seals.

-It would have to be a low km engine with some basic checks to verify its condition + at the end of it all, it needs to be a fully legal car.

Overall, 10k is still too much for me personally. But I'm confident in completing a conversion like this to my standards for a much lower cost so it makes it hard for me to accept that price. Only you can decide if it's worth that.

[Donkey]

Thanks everyone, really highlight how little I know, which concerns me as I would have no way of knowing whether the job was completed to standard.
The place that quoted me 10k was Suzi store which I have heard positive things about and to my knowledge is the only place which specialises in the conversion n Perth. For anyone interested here’s a very brief overview of the work
https://www.4wdpartshop.com.au/25-custom-work/74-sierra-g16b-efi.html.
Seems like best thing to do would get my head around the points you guys have raised and ask the shop some questions.

[alien]

Keep in mind too, that those 1.6's are getting VERY old now.. It's near impossible to find a good one.. That was one of the deciding factors on me selling my already converted Sierra last year (It needed another rebuild).

[Gwagensteve]

Suzistore does have a good reputation and they carry lots of genuine parts, so I'd feel confident that would be about the best conversion available.

I see the website you've linked shows they use the G13BB Jimny manifold which means there's no custom work - stock radiator hoses fit and the Maruti G13BB inlet hose leaves everything with a completely stock appearance It's also a quick, bolt in option for a shop with lots of parts and high labour costs. However, that outcome seriously compromises coolant flow when used with a Sierra heater tap and lack of flow out of the back of the cylinder head is a major cause of head cracking and head gasket failure in my opinion. I'm sure suzistore won't share that view and will have their own opinion.


Alien raises a good point about the relative scarcity of G16B's now and a limited supply going forward. However, it's important to recognise that any other option (such as an M motor from a later model suzuki) will be significantly more complex and expensive.

[Donkey]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I see the website you've linked shows they use the G13BB Jimny manifold which means there's no custom work - stock radiator hoses fit and the Maruti G13BB inlet hose leaves everything with a completely stock appearance It's also a quick, bolt in option for a shop with lots of parts and high labour costs. However, that outcome seriously compromises coolant flow when used with a Sierra heater tap and lack of flow out of the back of the cylinder head is a major cause of head cracking and head gasket failure in my opinion. I'm sure suzistore won't share that view and will have their own opinion.

What would be your preferred method?

Gwagensteve wrote:

Alien raises a good point about the relative scarcity of G16B's now and a limited supply going forward. However, it's important to recognise that any other option (such as an M motor from a later model suzuki) will be significantly more complex and expensive.

I believe they rebuild the engines before the conversions.

[tanked]

I will throw my 2c in here with the M series conversion the break down on parts isnt to bad but labour will kill it
decent swift 1.5 engine be around the 600-1000 mark depending on wrecker and ks etc (upto 2010 model)
Jimny gear box if you can find one be around the 1500-2000 mark
exhaust for it ebay - 185 - 250
Assorted random inlet manifold, brackets, hoses around the 1000 mark
Haltech or aftermark ecu 1500+ (doesnt include custom wiring needed to run the engine)
Modify the Jimny box and factory 5 speed box cost me $400 at mates rates (who knows what is should of cost)
The pain is when you need to pay to put all of that together, alot of time is needed to make it work, and time isnt always free

[Gwagensteve]

Considering the current conversion is 10K with stock engine management and gearbox, I'd say at the same workshop an M swap would have to be $15-16K