[CactusMan]

Hi guys, I’ve got the dreaded knock in my driveline somewhere whenever I change gears. Most noticeable in 1st -2nd -3rd. It’s been like this for over 6 months now. been to a mechanic who said there’s excessive play in driveline but it’s normal, Suzuki specialist who couldn’t identify any issues and said it’s my driving that causes it!. And a driveline specialist who said the noise disappeared when he drove the car with the front prop shaft off so I had that replaced but didn’t do a thing.

I still believe the noise is coming from the rear shaft or diff. I’m so over this noise. I can’t read anymore forums with people having issues with driveline slop and this knocking noise. The solutions range far and wide with very limited success in identifying the cause.

Anyway, I’ve got a Grand Vitara 3dr manual 2.4lt 2015 and would like to know if I can remove the rear prop shaft and test drive around the block in 4HL to see if the knocking sound is gone. Would this be worthwhile to zero in a bit more on where the issue is?

Has anyone experienced and fixed a similar issue?

Thanks in advance

[Gwagensteve]

Short answer, no. The GV transfer case has a slip yoke in the back of the transfer and if you remove the tail shaft all the oil will pour out when you drive it. you could come up with a temporary cover or plug to seal it up, I guess, but it's not an off the shelf thing.

Some clarification though. "Excessive" doesn't mean "Normal", they are literally the opposite of each other. This needs to be resolved, likewise, where this "excessive/normal" play is in the driveline.

The reason the solutions range far and wide is because there are lots of possible causes. Removing the driveshaft and driving the car in 4H won't prove much - it will just prove the noise is coming from the output of the transfer/driveshaft unis/rear diff/axles/suspension bushes and probably other things the more I think about it. i.e it doesn't help narrow it down much because you sort of already know that.

Is the noise present in H4?
What about if you roll on and off the throttle with the car in gear in 1st or 2nd? - can you make it clunk at will? this will make finding the problem easier.

[CactusMan]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Short answer, no. The GV transfer case has a slip yoke in the back of the transfer and if you remove the tail shaft all the oil will pour out when you drive it. you could come up with a temporary cover or plug to seal it up, I guess, but it's not an off the shelf thing.

Some clarification though. "Excessive" doesn't mean "Normal", they are literally the opposite of each other. This needs to be resolved, likewise, where this "excessive/normal" play is in the driveline.

The reason the solutions range far and wide is because there are lots of possible causes. Removing the driveshaft and driving the car in 4H won't prove much - it will just prove the noise is coming from the output of the transfer/driveshaft unis/rear diff/axles/suspension bushes and probably other things the more I think about it. i.e it doesn't help narrow it down much because you sort of already know that.

Is the noise present in H4?
What about if you roll on and off the throttle with the car in gear in 1st or 2nd? - can you make it clunk at will? this will make finding the problem easier.

Thanks for the info and taking the time to reply. I agree, “excessive” doesn’t mean “normal” however this is what the local franchise mechanic advised. They said the car drives fine although there is excessive play. I drove out of their driveway and first gear change, “knock!”. The Suzuki specialist wasn’t much more help either.

The front and rear prop shaft have about the same amount play. The knock is present in 4HL and i can’t replicate it if I roll on and off the throttle in 1st or 2nd gear. It’s only on the gear change. The clutch and gears feel clunky also. It’s really difficult to do anything smooth anymore.

I removed the front prop shaft today and test drove in 4HL and the knock noise virtually disappeared. Initially I though it had fully disappeared, however after a few more laps of the block, I could faintly hear the knock but I’d say it eliminated around 95%. The clutch and gears weren’t much smoother though. Any ideas? Issue with the transfer case perhaps??

Also, the vehicle was flat towed in neutral by the previous owner from the east coast to Perth. I don’t know if they removed the rear prop shaft from the diff when they did it. Apparently that is a common rule to avoid damage to the transfer case.

I’d appreciate any further ideas you might have.

[fordem]

CactusMan wrote:

Also, the vehicle was flat towed in neutral by the previous owner from the east coast to Perth. I don’t know if they removed the rear prop shaft from the diff when they did it. Apparently that is a common rule to avoid damage to the transfer case.

With the transmission in neutral or the transfer case in neutral?

Unless I'm mistaken, Suzuki recommends flat towing with a manual transmission in second gear and the transfer case in neutral and if this is not followed internal damage to the case is usually the end result. The third gens have a convoluted sequence that needs to be followed to get the case into neutral, and if it's not followed exactly, the case may remain in 4H, even though the selector is on N.

[CactusMan]

He towed with the transfer case in neutral. I’m sure he followed the sequence with the 5 sec hold past the ‘N’ switch. The vehicle had been fitted with a brute elite a-frame so it was set up properly behind his RV.

When you say eternal damage to transfer case, what are we talking about? Would this damage explain the not so smooth clutch and gears?

[fordem]

I have no idea what damaged would be caused - my guess is it would be related to improper lubricant circulation.