[Aaron]

hey guys i recently recieved shipment of my chinasoong airlocker (rd88) for the front of my sierra. i have managed to find a wiring diagram.


But there are few things that still puzzle me. How do i get the blue airlocker line into the diff to the hard line? can i remove the breather or do i have to drill a hole? also what is the purpose of the yellow coiled up airline in the kit? I only received 3 brass fittings with the kit but i think i need another to go on the hard line inside the diff housing? How do you connect the blue line to the compressor? I pulled off the brass fitting on the compressor and there was a little washer that looked like it would grab and hold the air line, is this all that is required? Yes i broke the blue thing on the compressor.
I was looking at where the yellow coiled line might go to and i saw what looks to be a preassue realease valve on the side of the compressor but i cannot see how it would attach, so im puzzled as to what its purpose might be? anyway ill upload some pictures so further help you and me.















I hope these pictures have been informative enough. Let me know if you need more. Any help would be awsome, thanks.

[royce]

Blue line on solenoid, you pull up on the washer, push the blue hose in, pus the washer down, that locks the hose in
to remove, push in hose, pull up washer, pull out hose

diff end
the brass piece with the internal and external thread, you have to drill and tap this into the diff housing
the metal hose from inside slides up through this, the oring slides over the metal hose on teh outside of the fitting
then the hex nipple goes in and the blue hose slides over and the cap is done up

the air housing with the thread also adjusts the bearing preload and gear backlash, it replaces one already in there

[atari4x4]

yellow hose is the chinese version of ARB's tyre inflation, threaded section will fit a tyre valve. but it appears that you have the locker only compressor.

[zooky08]

Actually you only have to push blue hose into blue ring fittings. Don't need to Touch the washer. When you want to remove push washer down and pull the blue hose.

[mnemonix]

ARB airlocker instructions can be found here: http://www.arlingtonmotorcar.com/pdf/in ... _guide.pdf
The install method is identical.

Lots of discussion on the chinasoong lockers in this thread: viewtopic.php?p=553460#p553460

Perhaps with the questions you are asking you may not be up to installing your own locker? ie: Unable to identify the bearing lock ring or figure out how to get air to the locker.
At the very least you'll need to buy a 1/4NPT tap and matching drill bit, plus be able to reset the diff backlash correctly.

[Scales]

those "washers" you are talking about look like "John Guest" fittings, which you just shove the hose into and slightly pull to lock them in, you can get locking clips that go under the lip so they dont get unlocked inadvertently

IMPORTANT when working with these fittings, you have to ensure you have a nice square cut at the end of the hose and try not to "squash" the tip when cutting it, also make sure its a clean burr-free end. These fittings RELY on this to seal properly, there is a small o-ring in there and if you have a shitty cut, it simply wont seal. i found this out the hard way in my homebrew setup and water filters. wasnt until my cousin who owns a water shop told me what i was doing wrong. so dont use side cutters or scissors, sharp stanley knife and go around slowly and clean.

they are easy enough to replace and readily available, check out water filtration joints, they use them HEAPS. you should be able to just unscrew the broken one and fit a new one. thing to note with new ones they have a tapered thread and are 9/10 made out of plastic (VERY strong though) so keep that in mind.

heres a pic of one i found in a google image search. there is hundreds of variations, you can see the retaining clip sorta in blue, its on the other side in this photo. this is a cheap chinese copy of one too btw.




PS i would put money on that yellow hose being an inflation hose. hang onto it for when that compressor shits itself and you get an arb one that can do lockers and inflation... then you just saved yourself 50 bucks for the inflation kit.

[christover1]

Reviving this very helpful thread, in case anyone else can add something else helpful.
An old mate with a Niva pointed me to this thread, didn't find it myself.
I was going to buy a new tap n die kit, lucky I didn't, would have been wrong sizes

[christover1]

http://www.billjohn.com/articles/drivet ... ickarb.htm

Could be helpful

[christover1]

And this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33pPBj5sr0M

[christover1]

Got started at last.
Can now make the click sounds, but no psst yet, unless I make the sound myself
Chose to do it this way, so I can easily swap to next car/body, when this one gets close to its use by date.
Princess gave her approval of the design
Got to recycle some more left over camper bits, too.
The amount of dog fluff, high country dust and beachport sand under the console was staggering

[christover1]

[atari4x4]

Why is your horn there?

[christover1]

atari4x4 wrote:

Why is your horn there?

Less chance of filling with mud, rain, dust etc.
Habit left over from Sierra days, killed a few horns over the years.
One less thing to drop the motor on when changing it

[christover1]

I must have done something right.
I got to hear brrrdbrrrrd sound from the compressor today, and a small psst from the locker port.
Compressor turns off pretty quick, hope that means it reaches pressure fast.
Switches light up with a dim greenish light when dash lights are on.
And a blueish light when switches are active.
Hopefully not too bright, but are mainly out of eyesight.
Was a bit disheartening at first try, was a bit head scratching to solve, a faulty relay supplied was the issue.
Luckily I had a quality Hella spare on hand.
Won't run airline till lockers fitted, otherwise it could get dirt in it.
Next to get on with the diff part of the job.

But after a day or two rest.

[christover1]

PS. Wiring colours were not the same as the diagram in this post, but were close enough that it wasn't too hard to work out.

[christover1]

My first head scratching challenge.
Air input to diff is on the crown wheel side, meaning routing the copper line is going to be very difficult.
All pix I have seen show it on the other side, which would make things easier.
Research time.
Or get creative and pick a different place for the line.

[christover1]

(EDIT) Found better pic of what I probably do.

[atari4x4]

it's completely normal & non of those diffs are zook diffs.

just download the ARB instillation guides... i'm trying to attach them but they're 9mb each & the forum brings the gay when attaching stuff.

[christover1]

I looked for a guide, didn't find one. I better look harder
I found a zook diff, but it refused to let me copy the pic
Just link them, maybe.

[atari4x4]

can't link to a pdf thats on my hard drive & photobucket wont attach multi page pdf's.

pretty sure i got them off the ARB site from memory.

[christover1]

Still looking. Though I pretty much got mine sorted out, it would be good for future fitters

[GreaseMonkey]

Are you doing front or rear? Christopher?
This could be helpful, but I don't know where your putting the locker.
https://www.arb.com.au/media/products/a ... -RD208.pdf

[christover1]

Going in the rear.
208 is similar, though. Cheers.

[GreaseMonkey]

RD88 was the old ARB part No.
I beleive the chinasoong air lockers for zooks are also Part No. RD88.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong

[atari4x4]

RD88/RD208 = front 26 spline

[christover1]

I'm using a RD 204 10 bolt rear Vitara.
Which I think was RD 74?
Pix of the 74 suggest its air port was on other side.

[sideways]

Yeah, when they updated the locker they put it on the other side so they could eliminate the piston.

[christover1]

sideways wrote:

Yeah, when they updated the locker they put it on the other side so they could eliminate the piston.

So although it is a bit pesky, it is actually a good thing. I can live with that

[christover1]

Deciding where to put a hole for the airline took longer than expected.
And was scary drilling the hole, knowing only had one shot
Couldn't use the top of diff, the A-arm ball joint and spacer were in the way.
Further forward at top was a possibility, but the bend needed in tube, and lack of space made that less appealing.
This spot has the tube fitting flat and in protected spot, with room to navigate the inner bits.
My tap hasn't turned up yet, so can't put it together
Paid extra for local seller, thinking that be faster.

[Zook_Fan]

Don't worry, you've got more than one shot. ARB have done mine twice and it will be going back a third time to be put in the right spot..