[Kailes]

Hey guys ,looking for a quick answer . I'm bad at this stuff . I am wondering what cars out there run the same stud pattern as a 06 jimny.

I am wanting to get 16 stock steelies of another car and get murders on them to swap onto my car when I'm going away .
I am aware of the down sides to the car such as speedoo and mileage per tank , but both are curable .

Thanks guys please feel free to call me an idiot , I am a newbie when it comes to a 4b . Only really played with street cAr before.

Thanks in advance .
Kailes

[Gwagensteve]

Suzuki Grand vitara rims (pre 06) are your best option.

Are you sure you want 16" rims though? Unless you're doing significant other work to the car, you might be better to stay with a 15" rim and a 28" tyre (215 75 15) which fit the car properly and have minimal impact on gearing.

[Kailes]

Nope not sure at all haha . I have a lift on it already 1 inch I believe( was on when I bought) was aiming to get the dif higher .. yes I'm a boob

[sideways]

Kailes wrote:

I am wanting to get 16 stock steelies of another car and get murders on them

GVs and XL7s are going to be your best source of stock 16" wheels.

There's plenty of aftermarket 5x5.5 / 5x139.7 wheels around, early Jeeps and F100s used that stud pattern.

Also there's plenty of good tyre size options for a 15" wheel. Tyres for 16" wheels in suitable sizes generally have a higher load rating and are heavier than their 15" equivalents.

16" tyres and wheels also generally cost more too.

What size tyre are you aiming to run? What terrain do you want to drive?

[Kailes]

I want to be able to do anything haha . I know that's hard to tune for . Sand isn't that high in the list , but mud and rock climbing are. ..
I know nothing about tyres , people keep telling e to get 32s ..y dad said that's like 16 or 17 inch rims .. I just want to be able to go anywhere and have fun .. I like the idea of the off set rims give me wider tracks ..

I'm not sure anymore haha.

[Gwagensteve]

There is (almost) no relationship between tyre diameter and rim diameter. My own tyres are 35" tall with a 15" rim.

However, a 32" tyre is very large and a very difficult tyre to fit functionally on a jimny. It's also very hard and expensive to make the driveline reliable at that size.

Nobody can go "anywhere" and the more work you do to improve one area of the vehicles performance, the worse it will perform somewhere else.

I don't like the idea of offset rims at all on a Jimny. The increased scrub radius will make potential death wobble much easier to trigger, and the tyres will be harder to fit.

Most people seem to settle on a 215 75 15 on a standard rim (28" tall tyre) or a 235 75 (28.5"ish) tyre on a 6" or 7" rim. Beyond this point You're on the slippery slope of diminishing returns.



Steve.

[Kailes]

Oh well heck , see what I mean when I say i have no idea haha, so let's say mud and rock are my most common objective , such as slopes .
Would you suggest keeping the stock rims and just going the larger tyres ?

[Eddy]

Kailes wrote:

feel free to call me an idiot

You're an idiot ...

Don't sweat it, we were all noobs at one time ...

My advice, (based on a mere 50 years driving) is don't do anything yet. Drive around a bit, do some easy drives and learn about your car, and learn how to drive it.
It will suddenly dawn on you what you need, because you'll see others doing stuff, you'll get a feel for what you and your car can do in stock form, and grow from there. Same as you would have done with your street car .. but without shiny bits.
Of course people will tell you to get 32s, but they neglect to tell you how long your car will be in the workshop getting them to fit and work.

[alien]

^^ this.

There's a guy on here running 215/75 tyres and twin locked on a jimny (crmo axles and 26 spline front i believe). IMO that's a good setup for a jim. It's not "hardcore" as such but the reliability will be brilliant and capability will be outstanding compared to most.

Also, the above can be done 100% legally... fat tyres and big lifts = engineering = $$$$

[MrRocky]

Depends where you drive, that size tyre wouldnt be able to drive even the most basic track most of the places i wheel.
I go out with a guy running 30x9.5 tyres with a guard trim, 4.16 gears , body lift and offset rims, he manages to outwheel 99% of other jimnys on small tyres and thats with the swaybar in.
Lockers and baby tyres just doesnt work on ruts especially when you start getting crossed up in a car with unbalanced susp

[alien]

OP said he's a newbie though, so starting off small is good =)

[Kailes]

Not hard core is good . I just got home from doing nearly 9 hours of 4x4 play, mud rock hills ascent and descent through mud and crazy stupid ruts . Been good. I don't think I need the bigger lifts, like those crazy patrols seem to need. I followed one through all his tracks and then passed him when he got stuck haha , but I feel that better tyres ( bigger and fatter maby ) might be handy for dropping some of those big steps .. but then again I'm only running all terrains that the last owner put on ...

[MrRocky]

If your tyres arnt holding you back then maybe try to refine what you have a little and look at a guard trim and slightly larger tyre.
I wouldnt suggest a susp lift it seems to be a can of worms type thing on jimnys that very few seem to get right

[Eddy]

Kailes wrote:

.. . I just got home from doing nearly 9 hours of 4x4 play ...

That's exactly what you need. few more trips like that and you'll start to get a grip on what your car can and can't do. So wot if ya get bogged a few times! that's fine ... means ya get to learn recovery techniques.

Quote:

.. . Only running all terrains that the last owner put on ...

and look at what you drove!

Before splashing out on new rubber, work out what your percentage of road / off road is going to be (not what you'd like it to be but is going to be ) Mud terrain tyres howl on the road, and will likely give you a headache if you need to put up with it for an hour or so morning and arvo every day. Plus you'll be wearing them out and after a relatively short time you'll be up for yet another set.
Should you decide that you absolutely must have separate sets of road and play tyres, get a good trolley jack and lekky rattle gun first ... just love my makita!

[Kailes]

Aye that was the plan , run my all terrain for everyday use but swap out for weekends out .

[alien]

$50 on ebay you can get an impact driver that hooks up to your battery or ciggy lighter socket. That's what i use at home.

[Kailes]

That is brilliant. Thanks for the tip

[Gwagensteve]

Out of interest what pressure were you running your tyres at? Do you have a compressor?

"Fatter" tyres aren't all they're cracked up to be. In bone dry conditions a fat tyre can be great. In wet conditions it's a liability. Increasing capability is all about diameter. It's diameter that lets you climb and descend bigger obstacles more easily. It's diameter that improves ground clearance. Conversely, it's diameter that makes tyres hard to fit, and messes with gearing.

[Kailes]

Only running about 35 psi . Aye I just bought one today .. a bit late I know , but I couldn't afford one till now I

[Gwagensteve]

Try 1/3 of that.

[Eddy]

Kailes wrote:

Only running about 35 psi .

holy crap!!!
prolly around 30 would be normal on-road pressure. Off-road you would be at around 8-10 for sand, maybe 12 - 14 for the other stuff.

[Gwagensteve]

With LT tyres I'd say 22-25 would be road pressure. Off-road 8-12.

[alien]

When i had 215/75r15's on mine, I ran 28psi front and 25psi rear (there abouts) on the road. Offroad i had them down around 5psi on sand and it was incredible. Rocks i'd go around 10psi otherwise i'd find myself smacking the rims.

[Kailes]

Ahh OK ,the tyres them selves say that they should be like 44 Max psi ( I run 38 ) on road . They are wind force oatoh force a/t tyres ( as I said they came with the car and are one of the reasons I want to upgrade my on road set as well as get the off road set. (I don't know how to upload a picture non my fone but will look closet when I am not at work haha )

[Kailes]

Doh should of mentioned they are p205/75r15 s.

[Gwagensteve]

The "maximum" pressure on the side of the tyre is misleading because it's in fact the minumum pressure at which the tyre will carry its maximum rated load.

This has nothing to do with your jimny which will only lightly load these tyres. The tyre placard on your jimny specifies circa 26psi, which is a useful starting point.

38 psi is far too high.

[Eddy]

Time for me to wheel out the old 4psi rule.
Now ... (before anyone starts) this is a "rule of thumb" - a guideline, not a law!!

Check the tyre pressure while tyre is cold, then check again after half hour of normal driving. The pressure should have increased by 4psi.
If it has increased by less than that, let some air out. If increased by more than 4psi, put a bit more air in.
This is a time proven method of setting the pressure for best ride and wear etc, or if you like "drive-ability."

[Gwagensteve]

I believe the 4psi rule is based on a 100km/h cruise. Urban driving won't ever get the tyres hot enough

[alien]

Correct Steve - it's based on a highway cycle.

Your tyres aren't that much beyond factory, so just run what the placard says, maybe 2psi lower if you're feeling confident.

I run my 31" tyres (sierra with no back seats or spare tyre) at 26psi front and 22psi rear. I could easily run lower but on-road cornering suffers so this is a good middle ground.

[Eddy]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I believe the 4psi rule is based on a 100km/h cruise. Urban driving won't ever get the tyres hot enough

Not necessarily ... Urban road surfaces can get warmer than country road surfaces simply because of the amount of traffic using that road. This will be transmitted to the tyre. It is possible to have a warmer tyre at 60 kph on a busy city road than on a wide open country highway.
Companies involved in resurfacing roads use different mixes for different road types and locations for exactly this reason.