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Post Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:08 am 
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hi ppl, ive got a 1.6l vit engine with a g13btwincam topend and am in the middle of a re do, im just looking for any ideas or experiance from auszoo members as to making a tuff hicopm engine, been toying with double v/springs, bottom end full ballance and skim a bit off the block to up compression and maybe some cams? anyone tried to hotup a frankinstien eng like this?

cheers

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 4:14 pm 
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Try on Redline...
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j ... _Pq3b0KHmA

or
Team Swift...
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j ... oxTaKuujbQ


Those guys put a lot more work into their engines than the average Suzuki 4x4 owner will.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 4:22 pm 
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Things I remember reading on here about this

sticking a stock G16b bottom end under a G13b leads to low compression
the G16b head flows better

so based on that I would get some higher compression pistons (Honda maybe) and some head work and cams

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 6:04 pm 
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cheers royce, i always thought the 1.3 head would have less space at tdc as to lead to more compression but i have had a little voice in the back of my head saying "skim the block down and crank up the comp" just need to talk to someone who knows thier shit and get some advice, am at the stage now where everything is stripped down and awaiting work :)

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:44 pm 
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I was going to give the detailed answer in here, but decided to whack in new thread.
Summary
You need to skim it 1.5mm or remove 6.67cm^3.
Vol between top of piston Incl head gasket and imaginary line with base of head = 19.5cm^3, so should be ample room to safely skim.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=33260

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 11:00 pm 
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Jdk81, than heaps, that is just what I wanted :-)

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:46 am 
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I revised that post I linked and included the spreadsheet.

If you find more info on various pistons etc you can include it.
If you have a different setup, you can adjust for that too.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 2:14 pm 
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if you just put oversize gti pistons in the 1.6 you will have a high comp engine , we were getting 235-240 psi per cyl when factory they are 205psi , ohh yeah you might not want to do this on factory ecu..

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 4:56 pm 
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thanx losfer, when i split my engine the pistons i took out of it were gti ones i think, don't s'pose you have the dimensions of these oversize pistons you speak of so i could check the ones i have out in the shed? i have spent the last day or two matching up the exhaust ports to my extractors and opening up the gallery just above the valves, first go at porting but i am pretty happy with the results :)

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 6:00 pm 
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Keep us posted on what you end up doing. Very interested in this as I have the same setup. MK1 GTi head with the G16B bottom end.
I'm not sure what's been done to mine as I bought it as a complete engine, other than some head work had been done to it.
Pretty happy with how it goes.

Is there anyway of determining the compression ratio from compression test results?

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:12 pm 
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re: DMAC, cheers for post mate. i am getting more exited about what the end result will be as i get more done, will put up pics as soon as i work out why the f*&# it keeps saying "the pic u just tried to upload was invalid"!!!!!!! CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT I'M DOING WRONG?

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:49 pm 
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....well the donner enine i got was a g16a not g16b, i know the 16b has more webbing on the block to strengthen it a bit but other than that i dont know if there is any difference?? and do all the g16b's come with that main bearing brace that you find on the g13b's??? and would this "brace" help streingthen my finished engine?

i mean it isn't a surprise that my last angine had cracks in the block... i'm pretty sure i revved it to 9000 in manny occasions :deadhorse: and it loved it!!!! :)

another question i have is does exhaust porting need to be smooth as in the smoother the better? i know in the intake side a bit of rough causes turbulance, thus causing better mixing of the fuel air mixture = better combustion, but someone told me today that they thought exhaust porting needs to be smooth as? any answers would be good.

tommorow i take my block, crank, flywheel, head (with the fresh porting im so proud of), harmonic balancer,crank timing sprocket and pistons (the suspected g13b ones) to the machine shop so i can........... Get the whole bottom cluster.e.g. harmonic balancer, cog, crank and flywheel balanced and marked.... get the head faced......... get the crank checked for need of re grind (dont think it'll be needed by the looks of it but u never know).......measure up what bearings i need for the bottom end (depends on if the grind is needed).... then get the guys there to confirm what pistons i have, if they are any good, and what the compresion ratio i will have after the block is faced........ if this ratio is not 10.5/1 then i will have the block skimmed down to achieve this.......... all going well i should be putting the engine back together mid next week pompoms .............. if anyone can point out any problems/better ways of doing stuff to me that'd be awsome...


AZ i will keep you posted on the progress and keep the comments coming i'm gonna go get drunk, :beer:

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:42 pm 
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TWINCAM16 wrote:
head (with the fresh porting im so proud of)

Post some pics up of what you have done. I'm interested into how you approached this as I have just been reading up on books with port/head designs

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:18 pm 
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ok jrzook, ill get pics up just as soon as someone tells me what i'm doing wrong,every time i try it doesn't let me, maybe coz my computer is a tablet running android, ill try on the missus's laptop in just a sec, till then look at this link and check out what he has done with the porting and tell me what u think, this is what i bassed what i've done to my head on......


http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/viewtop ... 2&start=20

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:47 pm 
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headwork pics

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:39 pm 
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ok sorry about the no pics yet i have just dropped the block, head, crank and 16v pistons off at the macining shop, we agreed on a head facing crank pollish hone to match pistons and block skim, not sure how much of a skim yet but when i get the bits back i'll take pics of all and do the bdc to head and tdc to head measurements and compression ratio related to the ammount skimmed and post it all.........


p.s. soo exited to be getting the zook on the road again..... ahhh yeah :)

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:18 pm 
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well time for an update, i just read this thread... http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 1&start=30 and it was full of interesting points of view, looks like i'm doing what they were talking about.

I just got all my parts back from the machine shop, head has been faced and decked a bit by the looks of it, haven't done a capacity on the head yet that will come after i give the valves a lap (this should happen tomorrow, crank had a pollish, block had a hone to sort the bore (but found out that the 16v pistons i had are 4thou under perfect size for the final measurement on the bore so i am gonna get a new set of pistons 20thou over and get a rebore to be spot on) the block also got skimmed down so the pistons are 60thou down from the top of the block at TDC, haven't worked out the compression ratio yet but think it'll be arround the high 9's to 10/1. will drop more info as i get it.

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 1:45 am 
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i think i have sorted the pic prob
http://m1078.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/twincam161/IMG_20120613_142225.jpg.html

give tha a go

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:52 am 
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Exhaust port matching looks good but I hope the header flange is still bigger than the port. Otherwise what you have done is totally removed the built in anti-reversion step that's there to try and stop exhaust pulses heading back into the cylinder.

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:02 am 
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well i opened up the header port as mutch as i could ( matched to the headers) but please tell me what will happen if i have done what you say?

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:15 am 
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ok there are the rest of my porting pics up at the photobucket

check'em out and tell me what you think

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 11:08 pm 
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well the engine is back together and back in the car, i ended going 30thou over with new g16b pistons, the smeasurement to tdc from the top pf the block was 1.7mm but the pistons are dished, gonna try to work out the compression............. any help with that'd be good.....JDK81 ;)

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 12:42 pm 
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Thankyou JDK81, ...... to all, i have it on good authority that the engine i have just built....e.g. vit 16v dished pistons, decked block so the tdc top edge of pistons come to 1.7mm from top of block has a CR of 9.7/1 seeing as the head has been shaved a tinny bit i'd guess that it'll be a smidge more. i will give it a compression test on monday when the timming belt gets here and post the results.... :)

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 2:55 pm 
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What timing belt are using? I think mine came off a honda.

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:53 pm 
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i am getting honda civic vti twincam 1.6 124 tooth, i was using a 152 off some kind of suzuki with a little aally plate fixed to the right side of the front of the engine with a second tensioner pully on it to act as a roller to take upp the slack but this method never sat well with me, as far as the civics go there is a choice of 124 and 125 tooth, i just rolled the dice and chose 124, fingers crossed

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 11:30 pm 
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well turns out it is a 125 tooth honda 26mm wide.... finally got there, engine started, comp will be done tomoz,
:)

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:52 pm 
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well, sorry for the delay...... it has been fked. lol. let me fill you in, turns out after my posting job it was evident that i had taken:( too much meat out arround the valve guides or just worked them too hard while doing it and got them too hot, not to mention the doner engine block i got also let go as it was comming to temp............ so to sum up, before the thermostat had opened i had a crack leading from every exhaust stem into the head and coolant running out of the block near the oil filter, :( . ............ so after all the puttiing back in i ripped it all out and here is what has changed

got a low ks g16aid and another g13b head, got them back from the machine shop afew days ago and the head had been skimed down to just clear of the valves to up the comp, my guy told me the block had already been skimmed so he just took 10 thou off, had the bore taken out 40thou to mach the new sluggs and rings i had for the last engine, put the bottom end back together and found out my guy was right, the reinstalled pistons came to just under level with the top of the block so looks like this donk is higher comp than the last one

got it all back together now and ran the compression tester over it befor i'd started it, got a reading of 200 dry!!

started like a charm, was hunting up to 1800 rpm, ajusted the tps and all sorted, drive time tomoz yay and i'll give it a nother comp test

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:26 pm 
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So after all this playing around what are you going to do about the management system to get the best out of your mods?

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:17 pm 
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thanx for asking jrzook, in short i have not given it much thought, any surgestions?

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:27 am 
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Search for the megasquirt thread on here. May help ya out

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