[GraphicX]

after a bit of advice if you guys can help, i've got a fairly bad weep on the back of my rocker cover gasket. i degreased it but it's running a bit so looking to replace it. do i just need to buy a new gasket, or does it require glue & other rubbers/gaskets in a kit ? engine is a 1.3 SOHC (G13 i think).

also the car has done 100,000ks, should i be looking to swap the spark plugs out at the same time ? if so, do i need the iridium sort & what gap should i be looking for (gap for these seems to be offered in 0.8 & 1.1).

thanks for any help.

[bumstein]

I think you'd just be looking at a gasket. Pop the rocker cover off and have a look, the old one could be damaged or just plain old. It wouldn't normally require gasket goo as well I dont think.

As for spark plugs, check the FSM to see what plugs they recommend. You probably don't have to use the fancy ones, standard ones are likely sufficient unless the FSM stipulates fancy plugs. 0.8 gap sounds about right but again, check the FSM or Gregory's workshop manual.

[GraphicX]

thanks for that =)

[pete_79]

Hi mate, did my plugs this weekend.
Here's the numbers you need just in case you haven't found a manual to download yet;

NGK BKR6E - from manual
NGK IFR6J - Iridium plugs that I found in my car. I'm assuming they must have been changed in a previous dealer service

[GraphicX]

thanks for that pete, not even $20, just gotta grab the gasket & should be good to go.

[AckerDackerly]

My apologies if I am making assumptions based on large bodies of water separating me from you...

The G13 (and G16 for that matter) engines have a bad habit of leaking oil around the O-ring between the back of the head and the distributor case. The result is oil all over the back of the block and on the gearbox.

If your oil leak persists after your work, you might want to check into this.

Be very careful when removing the distributor housing! carefully mark the alignment of every moving part that you remove as you disassemble. Double-check the correct orientation of the distributor cap when re-installing it. If you do not install everything exactly as it was, there is a possibility that you will go crazy trying to track down the resulting timing problem!


Take pictures of the spark advance adjuster position and rotor position - or mark them with typewriter white-out or a colorful parts marker pen to ensure that everything goes back together EXACTLY as you took it apart. Oh, and DO NOT allow the engine to run or physically turn the crankshaft during this procedure.

When installing the O-ring, lightly coat it with silicone grease or a similar tacky lubricant so that it sticks in place while you install it on the side of the head.

I hope that this helps!

[zukmeista]

Jimny=coilpacks, no distributor.

[HarryHoudini]

My engine is leaking there, anyone know the O-ring generic size or is it a genuine part. TIA.

[GraphicX]

thanks for that acker, good chance it is that o-ring as there is a bit of oil on the box, but seems to be a very very slow weep if nothing more. if it gets to the point of me having to remove that much gear i think i'll get my mate to do it for me lol.

[zukmeista]

Your Jimny does not have that o-ring as it does not have a distributor. The leak is more likely to be the rocker cover gasket.

[AckerDackerly]

zukmeista wrote:

Jimny=coilpacks, no distributor.

Again, I live and learn!

Thanks, zukmeista!

[AckerDackerly]

HarryHoudini wrote:

My engine is leaking there, anyone know the O-ring generic size or is it a genuine part. TIA.

Barring that "I'm over here and don't know what is going on over there..." problem I seem to have , it is possible to find a suitable replacement O-ring in the faucet repair section of the local hardware store. I have actually done this!

Take the old one with you to compare. Otherwise, it's off to the local dealer or auto part store (do they call then 'factors' there too?)

Rumor has it that you can also use RTV by itself to seal the distributor case. Just remember to snug it down then let it sit for a few hours to partially cure before applying the finishing torqueing. This will keep the RTV from being squeezed out which will ruin the seal.

I hope that this helps!

[royce]

zukmeista wrote:

Your Jimny does not have that o-ring as it does not have a distributor. The leak is more likely to be the rocker cover gasket.

Where is the cam sensor that tells the ecu what cylinder is what then



If its a rocker cover gasket I like to stick a bit of sealent in the corners of the hump front and back (youll see what I mean if you look at the cover)

To check its not lower down degrease it all down to the box well and run it for a bit and check for oil with your finger

[westralia]

I have the same issue on my '95 Sierra SJ70. I was expecting some leaks developing after flushing out grunge, cleaning and putting in better oil after my recent hobby-car acquisition. ("Regularly maintained" seller said: Serviced once per year and bonnet never opened otherwise it seems. ...Otherwise a pretty good nick).
Sure enough, a leak has happened in what appears to be between the distributor/head. (New rocker gasket fitted and re-tightened)
Just checking the forum, find it is a common problem, however I did not find the job description in the How To section.
Is it just a matter of marking all moving parts, unbolting the dizzy from the head, locating and replacing O-ring, and bolting back on?
Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
Andrew

[zukmeista]

royce wrote:

Where is the cam sensor that tells the ecu what cylinder is what then

Forgot they had one of those...

westralia wrote:

Is it just a matter of marking all moving parts, unbolting the dizzy from the head, locating and replacing O-ring, and bolting back on?
Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
Andrew

Pretty much, take note of which contact on the dist. cap the rotor is pointing to and make sure it lines up when you put it back in. Due to the curved teeth it rotates slightly when you put it in so you will need to turn it slightly one way before you put it in to get it to line up. Only needs to be 1 tooth out and it will either run like shit or not at all. Wouldn't be a bad idea to throw a timing light on it after either, from memory it is 10deg BTDC for a G13A and 8deg BTDC for G13BA.

[GraphicX]

@ royce; i know when i did a van years ago we glued it, wasn't sure about the jimny but will pull the cover when i've got some glue on hand like you've suggested.

[royce]

you dont need to do the lot, just those corners

[BlueSuzy]

My G16b Baleno motor has a 'o'ring around the bolt on casing for the cam sensor. The G13bb will too.


Cam cover: New gasket will fix it..maybe..(Did on mine)

Or i'd Seal the whole thing if its an older aged/cracked in spots gasket, Goes for the o-ring too. Oil resistant silicone. Grey loctite stuff is awesome. I use it on everything oily.

[GraphicX]

thanks dude.

[pete_79]

pete_79 wrote:

Hi mate, did my plugs this weekend.
Here's the numbers you need just in case you haven't found a manual to download yet;

NGK BKR6E - from manual
NGK IFR6J - Iridium plugs that I found in my car. I'm assuming they must have been changed in a previous dealer service

I've just found an updated manual from the one I've been using and they say the following;

Spark plug type
NGK : BKR6E-11, IFR5E11
DENSO : K20PR-U11, SK16PR-A11

NOTE:
NGK IFR5E11 or DENSO SK16PR-A11 is highly recommended
for better engine starting performance under –
25°C (– 13°F).


Just thought I'd give the correct info in case someone links back to this page in the future.