[fergy]

Hi there

can someone please tell me the difference between NT and WT
what models are what and if there are any diff differences
I have tried to search but it wont search for words under three letters
I have been reading the rigs section but if you could point me to a good thread that would be great
I have plans to do a 5/8 RUF on my sj70 just wonderin if I should pull the springs in at the same time

cheers Fergy

[Zook_Fan]

What is a 5/8 RUF?

Links for the NT WT question. Google site search is way better than the this sites search function. Sideways covers it in the first link the best.

viewtopic.php?t=40167&p=731872
viewtopic.php?t=32085&p=590547
viewtopic.php?t=44247&p=795329
http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... difference

[tanshi]

I cant remember exactly what it was but I think a 5/8ths was us fucking around with the who RUF, mini RUF, Full Ruf, RUF RUF, FUR idiocy

Yes NT is worth the extra work. Don't fuck around with the other viriations. Do a full ruf or don't bother

[fergy]

cheers zook fan will try that next time
And yes tanshi have been lurking long enough to see the Half/full idiocy
I will be doing chassis ext and rear hanger move and probably move the mounts in
buy the way what is the difference in measurement NT/WT ?

[fergy]

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=5293

[Gwagensteve]

Why move the rear hanger as well as building an extension? That seems like a 1.25 RUF - as in more work than necessary.

Steve.

[fergy]

Hi Steve
With ruf won't the diff move forward ?
If I cut off the hanger and turn it will it not move the diff back to counteract some of the ruf movement ?
And if changing to NT it has to come off anyways
Shit I thought I had a plan there.... Back to the drawing board

Also As I'm a dumb arse boily can we please use fractions
Fergy

[fergy]

Like neos samarui

[Gwagensteve]

If you don't want to move the diff forward you don't need a chassis extension, just move the spring hanger back and tune shackle length.

Moving the front axle forward is about 50% of the advantage of RUF.

[fergy]

Sorry it's not that I don't want to move the diff forward but I was under the impression that it moved it too far forward and I don't like the look of where people have drilled another hole in the hanger

[Gwagensteve]

Too far froward for what?

[fergy]

Don't really know it's that people were stuffing around drilling diff pads and stuff to split the difference of the RUF that I ASSUMED that a ruf moved it too far forward
Maybe it hits the front panel work I'm not sure

[Gwagensteve]

In think the 40mm wheelbase stretch full RUF provides is invaluable.

[fergy]

Ok then I will do that just re read a thread on that
Would you use stock rears or just get two sets of 50mm raised rears and do them all
I intend on running 32-33s eventually ....after gearing
So I'm thinking 50 mm lift and 50mm body lift.
NT spacing and RUF first though
Then 1.6 lt and power steer
Then gearing and big tires

[jdk81]

I'll disagree with Steve

If the front diff moves forwards an inch the draglink joint at the pitman arm may rub on the tie rod during articulation.
Any more than 1" forward and the steering binds.

The stock sierra front wheel well is filled nicely when the front diff is moved forwards an inch.

I like using stock shackles, flipping and moving the rear hanger back and extending the chassis 25-30mm.
JrZook did a write up on this in his lil foot build thread.
Its a bit of extra work, but allows you to move the diff 1" forward and maintain the factory geometry.

Using a longer shackle to avoid a chassis extension reduces castor, and allows the front diff to walk a little more, both of which make steering worse.

It's not a huge amount of work, and it works.
Many people who cut corners on their RUF either tolerate the shit baggyness of their creation, or continue to modify it until it's no longer a problem, or come here and whinge about it.

[Gwagensteve]

I understand your point JDK, except in relation to caster. If shackle length is tuned to front hanger location, there's no problem with caster in my opinion. Adding a longer shackle to a stock car or an RUF designed for a stock shackle will reduce caster excessively.

My builds are bumpstop spaced so steering bind isn't an issue.

Steve.

[jdk81]

Flipping and pulling the rear mount backwards an inch, moves the hole along the rail 35mm

To maintain spring geometry the same as stock:

By chassis extension, stock shackles, and stock shackle angle (31 degrees from vertical), you need to add 45mm to the rail.
By only adding 30mm you increase caster (marginally), and slightly change the shackle angle to 40 degrees from vertical (stock is 31 degrees).
This is also slightly less lift (4mm less).

By shackles only you need shackles 103.5mm c to c, and the shackle angle will be around 50 degrees from vertical (stock is 31 degrees)
The spring packs are parallel, and it is the same lift and as extending chassis 45mm on the front with stock shackles.

It's down to personal preference I guess.
If using 103-104mm c to c shackles, the shackles are a fair bit longer than stock, and the extra length and angle will make it wander more, but it will ride a touch smoother due to shackle angle, and is less work.
Non-OEM shackles are obvious, but you could try to fab some OEM lookalikes.

A chassis extension may be obvious depending how it's done, it is more work, and offers better handling, with ever so slight less comfort.

[tanshi]

we generally use rear lifted springs and with efs ones you definitely need to move both front and rear hangers

[fergy]

Is there any merit in moving the steering box forward at the same time as RUF as I intend on putting vitara PS box in.
Is there any thing else I can use from the vitara
I intend on using the G13a
What about diff centres?

[J--A--C--K]

Ben t's vitara power steer addapter moves the steering box forward an inch,
Said to help with clearance. No experience with this though.

[fergy]

Yes I read that
Fatzook says it clears full RUF
Ben t says that it moves the box 20 mm forward
Now I'm thinking I may be able to use the g16 sump
Would there be any advantage using the 16sump ?
Also looking like I need reduction in the gear dept I think I remember reading that vit diff centres fitt
Would I be better doing a transfer gear set 6.5s only
Or vit diffs and smaller reduction in transfer
At this stage I'm leaning towards 6.5s only as they bring the high gearing down by 20%?
And with 31s that brings it back to normalish

[fergy]

steve what do you mean by bumpstop spaced?

[Gwagensteve]

If the bumpstops are spaced down to prevent tyre contact with the guards, then there's additional room between the pitman arm and tie rod at full compression. This prevents binding.

Many of the cars I've worked on also have vitara power steering with a Vitara pitman arm. This is flatter and increases clearance at full compression.

Steve.

[fergy]

yeah ok I was under the impression that It binded most of the time
from what I see if you do a RUF your in for bumpstop spacing anyway
I have a 91 vitara that I can use parts from