[GraphicX]

more begging for help.

G13BB jimny, it's really gutless, now gets about 260kms per tank down from about 380kms, has a bad stutter upon initial acceleration.

things i've thought of & tried:

- O2 sensor: replaced it, did pretty much nothing

- cat converter: thought it might be blocked, disconnected it & did nothing

- cleaned the fitting on the manifold highlighted below:

Attachment:

JimnyManifold.jpg

originally if i started the car with the hose to this disconnected it would idle at about 2,000rpm which i believe means it is working. now if i disconnect it it'll barely idle, blow tons of smoke but if i rev the engine with it disconnected the engine is very responsive & powerful (stutter is completely gone). can someone tell me what this thing is & does ???

i'm now wondering if my EGR valve could be stuck open & leaning out my fuel mixture all the time. if i partially cover the airbox inlet with my hand & rev the motor there is no stutter. beyond this i'm out of ideas.

tomorrow i'm going to change the spark plugs & try the spare coil packs i have but i really don't think it'll help.

if any one can point me in the right direction that'd be great. if it is the EGR it's in a pr!ck of a spot to get to, any chance i could block off the little pipe going into the inlet manifold with a plate between the pipe & manifold if it is that ????

[monley]

Checked the cam angle sensor?

Blocking of the ERG valve will make it chuck a engine light IIRC, well least on a m13a it will make it chuck light on. My m13a vvt donk had a stuffed ERG valve and i didnt notice any difference in power or economy

[GraphicX]

thanks for the reply.

re. cam sensor; that's on the back of the head isn't it ? think i've got a spare one of those so will try that too.

with the egr i think if it gets stuck closed you're pretty right, but if it gets stuck open then you'll get issues but not sure. have read so many threads here, on big jimny & on the net in general trying to figure this out & i'm running out of ideas.

[atari4x4]

Search for posts by royce & orange valve should be a thread started by 31zook...

[GraphicX]

ok got about 10 threads from royce to read & 3 from 31zook with hits.

i've had a play, put new plugs in, old ones were shockingly wide open/worn but made no difference. changed the coil packs, sensor above the orange valve, cam sensor & all made no difference. going to clean the little valve going into the rocker cover & then come back & read these threads. really am thinking it's the EGR valve though & it's in the worst possible spot, really can't picture getting to it or being able to clean where it is.

[GraphicX]

ffs, now my arms are all cut up but did more, no result:

- cleaned the little plastic valve & hose going from inlet manifold to rocker cover. both had crap in them, valve was clogged solid & so was pipe coming out of manifold. after cleaning the engine was hard to start but then cleared up, still has the bad stutter/stall.

- cleaned the orange valve again, no improvement.

- climbed on top of the engine & took the top off the EGR (the actuator), was actually fairly easy, just really awkward (little hope of being able to get the actual EGR off though). i could depress the valve with the actuator off & it moved very freely, also ran the engine with it disassembled & actuated it whilst it was running (can stall the engine with it). everything there appears normal but never fixed the issue.

so now i'm totally fücked as to what it could be, will read these threads later today but admitting defeat for now.

[GraphicX]

thanks for the tip checking those threads atari but still no luck. reading it sounds like 31zook has a newer M13 engine with MAF sensor & his little orange valve was full of oil causing the issue.

http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=40418

just on the topic of that little 'valve', i'm sure it is playing a part in this somehow. being a 'valve' shouldn't it only allow air to pass in one direction ? on mine i can blow through both sides, admittedly not as easily from one side but it appears to be more because of the small opening on that side. i tried it on the baleno valve i have as well & i could blow through both sides on that also. could they both potentially be faulty though ??? just wondering if there's meant to be a rubber in there or something that may have perished or even attacked by cleaning in the past, but when i remove the hose from them to the sensor the motor will not idle at 2,000rpm like i'm positive it should do.

this is really starting to give me the sh!ts tbh.

[Jimny_No_Power]

Hey GraphicX,
did you end up finding the cause of this? I've just replaced my TPS, stripped and cleaned the entire EGR and I've got no MIL codes coming up.
mine generally idles OK now I replaced th TPS, however it seems a little down on power and makes a nasty chirpy rattle sound when under load and wide open throttle. I'm pretty sure it's the EGR, but am a bit lost as to where to go from here as I cleaned it right out :/

[GraphicX]

not really, i ended up doing a G16B conversion, using the electronics & intake etc which were all badly sooted/oiled up from the G13BB. during the conversion i cleaned them all with carby cleaner & have had zero issues with hesitation or any kind of stalling since. i'm pretty sure all the issues were down to just how dirty it all was inside, leading it to run too richly & then making everything worse. i even have better fuel economy now.

another thing you could check is make sure all your air lines are in good condition, no cracks & are still fitted. it's a simple thing but worth a look imo.

[Jimny_No_Power]

Thanks for the reply. I've had the air intake off heaps and there's no dramas there. The intake manifold is pretty gross, so I'll probably pull that all off and clean it out when I get a new gasket for it.

How difficult was the G16B conversion? I've got the M13a and quite like the look of an M18 if I can find one

[Rhinoman]

Jimny_No_Power wrote:

Hey GraphicX,
did you end up finding the cause of this? I've just replaced my TPS, stripped and cleaned the entire EGR and I've got no MIL codes coming up.
mine generally idles OK now I replaced th TPS, however it seems a little down on power and makes a nasty chirpy rattle sound when under load and wide open throttle. I'm pretty sure it's the EGR, but am a bit lost as to where to go from here as I cleaned it right out :/

Are you sure that's not pre-ignition? have you checked the ignition timing? maybe put some higher octane fuel in it and see if it goes away.

[Jimny_No_Power]

runs on 95/98, also put injector cleaner through a few times.

M13A, so ignition timing is ECU controlled and shouldn't be adjustable. I've cleaned the cam sensor, I'm not sure if there is is a crank sensor

[GraphicX]

rhinoman is the guy in the know when it comes to anything ecu related in the suzukis. i don't know about the M series engines, but the G series use a resistor to set timing at start up.

re. engine conversion, it wasn't too bad, but at many times i would've been stuffed had i not had a mate who's a mechanic & willing to lend me tools at short notice. at quite a few times i needed more specialised tools people don't really mention in their conversions for pulling studs & other bits that would've been impossible without the specific tool for the purpose (which are also expensive of course so borrowing was the only feasible thing to do).