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Tonyrieko

newbie
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2015 8:47 pm Posts: 2
Vehicle: Grand Vitara 2008 2.4l auto 5-
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 Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 9:48 pm |
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Hello everyone, I’m Tony, a newbie. I’m looking for advice on raising the suspension on my Zook. It is a 2008-9 Grand Vitara, 5-door, 2.4L auto, with steel wheels, not alloys, and Pirelli Scorpions. Old man emu offers a raise in height of 20mm; this does not sound like much to me. Is this enough to make it worth bothering with? Is it better to go with Ironman or Pedders [40mm]? Or would that be a problem? It is for daily onroad use with occasional off-road – and I want to feel more confident about the clearance. Do I need to make any other alterations, like Camber pins [whatever they are!]? Thanks. Tony 
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fordem
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 2656 Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Vehicle: JB420, APK416, A6G415, A6N415
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 Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 11:36 pm |
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The problem with "large" lifts on that model is the front suspension design - it's better suited to a front wheel drive sedan than it is to an SUV - in fact, the first place I saw it was a Toyota Corolla circa 1998.
The rear bush on the front control arm is vertically oriented, and has two voids (or spaces) and two narrow rubber sections that twist as the suspension flexes - the further the suspension is away from it's "rest" position, the more "twist" on the bushings - when you lift the vehicle, you twist the bushings, but, instead of this being a momentary twist, it's a permanent one, in the lifted rest position, the bushings are twisted and the more you lift the vehicle, the greater the twist - this leads to premature failure of the bushings.
There's a reason OME limits the height of their lifts...
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Tonyrieko

newbie
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2015 8:47 pm Posts: 2
Vehicle: Grand Vitara 2008 2.4l auto 5-
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 Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2015 10:52 am |
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 Hi fordem, thanks for the answer. So do you think it would be better not to raise the suspension at all?
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Marck
Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:20 pm Posts: 147
Vehicle: 2006 2.7 prestige auto.
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 Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2015 6:34 pm |
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I did a heap of research on what kit to throw in my NGV and found for all round bang for your buck on and off road improvement that the dobinsons 40mm kit was the preferred solution. I have read a comment or 2 that there has been a few lateral movement froblems with some of the dobinsons struts. I think the benefit of lift is the ability to fit bigger tyres to get you another bite at the lift with no change in suspension geometry so if the 20 mm lift gives you this benefit tyres and 20 mm might be enough ? Maybe 40 to 50 mm ?
Overall I am happy with it and I haven't done bigger rubber yet.
A note on the lower control arms probably 40 percent of the second hand NGV,s I looked at had had the lower control arms replaced to pass roadworthy so they seem to be a weak point anyway. I bought mine with 70k on it and they had to be replaced.
Thanks Marc
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J--A--C--K
Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 3:48 am Posts: 253 Location: melbourne
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 Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 11:53 am |
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The above comment is a little incorrect , suspension lift dose nothing to increase tyre clearance , it only raises where you car sits at rest , but at full compression you will still be sitting on the same bump stops, body lift , bump stop spacing and guard chopping is how you increase tyre clearance . Sorry I can't help with spacific answers to your questions though . I will say the OME usually put a bit of thought in to there kits so if they only offer 20mm might be worth thinking or asking about why that might be
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13001 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 12:38 pm |
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I have no experience with OME on the new GV, but the other kits on the NGV I have seen reduce effective wheel travel due to spring rate/design.
Whilst this does sort of fit bigger tyres, it's a nasty way to do it.
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Marck
Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:20 pm Posts: 147
Vehicle: 2006 2.7 prestige auto.
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 Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:03 pm |
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Thanks guys learning something here I never thought about compression sorry for passing on the wrong information.
In saying that the bump stops are in the same place doesn't it make a difference to travel being 20 mm further away from the bump stops? And shouldn't that allow for 20mm more tyre size assuming that width and horizontal size of the tyre well are not the issue ?
And another question I have would the struts / shocks or springs change where the compression limit is in your suspension or is that all left to the bump stops?
Question for you Steve on the NGV when you say it reduces effective travel is that only on compression ?
Sorry for the thread jack but when I'm wrong I like to make sure I understand why.
Thanks Marc
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13001 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:13 pm |
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Compression distance is a function of bumpstop position. This doesn't change when springs or struts are changed so a suspension lift only moves the rest point of the suspension, not its limits.
So if a tyre size doesn't fit the car with standard suspension it won't actually fit with the lift installed, once the suspension moves away from its rest point (like flexing offroad)
However, the lift springs I have seen on NGV's have been very stiff and reduced compression travel.
Steve
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