[BigCaroona]

So currently im in the process of looking for a sierra to be used as a camping/hunting/fishing rig as well as a daily driver.
Ive read on here that it is recommended to once you've bought your sierra to completely go over it and change all the fluids, and get it mechanically sound before spending any money on mods.
I would like to know what stuff I should look at replacing, what to check on it and basically what to do to get it reliable and able to be driven daily without causing me any dramas?
Cheers.

[Gwagensteve]

It's pretty hard to say without knowing the car, its history, condition, and how it drives.

I'd really deal with things as they present themselves. Trying to predict where money needs to be spent is unreliable and expensive.

Get hold of a factory service manual, then you can easily check service limits for everything, and deal with things as you go.

Most items will just present themselves as they wear to an unacceptable point.

There's no harm in changing diff, gearbox and transfer oils, although they don't work very hard and with magnetic drain plugs, the oil should be fairly clean.

Check for bearing play and kingpin wear.

Check uni condition

Steering box wear is a bit of an awkward one. Steering boxes are not rebuildable (as in, none of the wear parts can be purchased) If the box has significant slack in it, it's unlikely to be able to be adjusted out. These boxes are set tighter than you think. Once obvious play develops, they will wear quickly around the centre point. Adjusting them to spec for straight ahead will make the excessively tight off centre. Getting the preload right needs to be done via the FSM, not by feel.

There's little else that springs to mind.

[bumstein]

X2 for getting hold of FSM and going through the items one by one.

In regard to the steering box, you can buy an OEM new one for around $400. In my opinion it's a good investment to make if the steering is loose. I can't see the value in persisting with loose steering, others will likely differ here.

Personally, I change all oils when I get hold of a car. Diffs, gearbox, transfer case, engine. All filters as well. Oil, fuel, air. Who knows when these were last changed in any given car, perhaps there's water in a diff (a quick check of the oil will tell you this, pop the filler plug out and dip your finger), it isn't a big deal to start from fresh. I like knowing what is circulating in the bits of my car.

Grease the drive train. Check and inspect everything as I go. Inspect all hoses etc, the FSM will guide you through all these.

As per Steve, kingpins and bearings need to be checked as do steering knuckle seals and CV grease etc. again, when I'm getting my new cars ready I plan for a rebuild on the steering knuckles and replace kingpin bearings. Re-grease all and change when bearings as I go.

Again, not everyone will agree with me here however when I get hold of a new car I like to reset everything so I've got a starting point. Once these things are done, I know they're done and done well. I shouldn't have to worry about them for a long time. Plus I've never seen an older car with these things in impeccable order, thus I like to make sure they are sound.

Also by doing these items I spend a fair bit of time staring at other components and usually end up finding a hidden issue here and there.

Make sure the carby is working soundly. Make sure the automatic choke is working (assuming its stock Carby or if not, assuming it's fitted with a choke mechanism). Does it drive well?

I also like to look at wiring as I go. I'm not takin about dissecting the entire vehicles wiring, but following the wiring harnesses within reason and see if anything jumps out as unusual or badly installed. Many old cars have had some serious wiring butcher work done. Spotties wired in badly and hacked out, wires cut off that serve no discernible purpose or just bodged up with many miles of insulation tape. I like to remove unnecessary wiring that loiters about and tidy up bodgy work. It might just save me from trying to fault find an electrical gremlin in the dark somewhere along a highway miles from nowhere.

This is the result on wiring when 4x4xzook's battery was a little loose causing a wiring issue. Sorry to steal you pic 4x4xzook, I don't know how to link to your thread. Inspection might (and I stress MIGHT) pick up on an issue like this before it becomes a problem. Stuff like this is likely to crop up here and there regardless of how much time you spend checking the car over



Hope that helps

[BigCaroona]

Thanks guys, these are the sorta tips im after,
cheers

[bumstein]

Make sure you check underneath the plastic will rust-catchers before you buy..

Also, post pics when you've got one!!!

[BigCaroona]

Will do mate

[4x4xzook]

All good bumstein, and a very good point to make.

While everyone checks leaks and noises, wiring sometimes goes forgotten.

[AckerDackerly]

Be careful when selecting lubricant for the gearbox.

Grades newer than GL4 (if you have that rating system in Australia) have ingredients that are harmful to "yellow metal" (eg. brass) components. The gearbox uses brass synchonisers. Look on the gear oil label for "yellow metal safe" if the product has the latest petroleum industry rating.

Some might pish-posh this suggestion as being a bit picky, but it is something to consider.

From that pesky place called 'Murica, I remain helpfully,

[ZUZUKI]

The timing belt should be a item to replace - unless there is a sticker or service book telling you it has been changed at some stage & is not due for replacement yet.
While you are in there, look at the water pump for any weeps or roughness in the bearings - cheap enough items to give a bit of 'peace of mind'.
Rgs, Michael