[claytox]

How have people gone about mounting their bullbars? I've tried to search it but can't really seem to find much.
I have no outriggers (of course) and the old bolt holes are kinda bent up and ruined (previous owner).
Cheers

[ZUZUKI]

You're right, there is not a whole lot to bolt to on the front of a Sierra when the outriggers have been cut off (not that they are super strong in the 1st place, but they do help.)
The holes in the end of the chassis are barely adequate to hold the tin bumper, let alone a weighty bullbar & as you say, are often torn out anyway.

Most people, I'd suggest, break out the welder & fabricate away, especially if extending the chassis a little for a RUF (rear up front) spring conversion.

A method I don't particularly like (but it is effective) is to create a mount that has a top & bottom strip of 'flat' steel that slip down each inside of the chassis - about 300mm long. The top inside flat strip has a bigger hole (13mm) than the bottom strip (8mm).
Top & bottom strips allow them go go over/under the round front crossmember.
It is useful if some of the original holes are able to be used as a reference and/or additional mounting, but the idea is to measure along the top of the chassis rail, drill through it & hopefully lining up with the centre of the hole in the top strip. line the angle up & continue to drill down, through the bottom rail, again hopefully lining up with the centre of the hole in the bottom strip.
Enlarge the top hole to the 13mm size. Cut a 'crush tube' from 13mm O.D steel tube that is just a fraction shorter than the height of the chassis (less the thickness of the bottom strip).
Use a high tensile M8 bolts, large, heavy panel washers & nyloc nuts to trap the crush tubes, mounting strips & chassis altogether.

Notes* Some people take a dim view of drilling holes in the top & bottom surfaces of the chassis - it seems to hold up though & not result in tearing or cracking, but must ultimately be weaker than not being drilled.
It's a bastard to get the angle of the drill right, when the chassis is angling down at the front, plus it is tight on the D/S with the radiator, steering stuff & intake mainfold in the way - almost worth removing the D/S guard.

Have fun & good luck, Michael

[claytox]

Cheers Michael, awesome write up! Absolute legend!