Right I’m back!!!
Time and pork chops wait for no man..
Ok so back to fuel jets. You might be able to remove them for cleaning without taking the carby off, but I reckon it’s easier to unbolt the carby and it gives you a good view to check other things.
This is where the jets are located.
And this is what a blocked one looks like, there should be a hole in the middle. Make sure they both go back into their respective place.
YellowTruck wrote:
I am having fuel issues where I lose power under load, engine doesn’t want to idle without a high RPM. It is running very lean, requiring the choke manually closed to start and on a downshift, it can lose power all together and stall. At higher RPM, it revs freely and seems to getting enough fuel. The ute was sitting for a number of years (deceased estate).
Ok, ^ this is what leads me to think there’s is crud in the jets. I’m going to assume that there’s no electrical problems and I’ll continue down the fuel process.
YellowTruck wrote:
The fuel pump/carburettor are next hit list. The fuel pump looks newish
The fuel pump. You’ll notice a wee line running off the pump that isn’t attached to anything. If there’s any oil or fuel dripping out of this then your fuel pump is cactus.
If there’s not then you can either A) replace it and see if that fixes the problem, or B) make sure the pump is pumping.
IF you choose to see what the pump is pumping then I tend to do this, but again this comes with a big disclaimer!!! Even though I detail my process here I do not recommend it and if you choose to try it then it’s up to you. It’s a fire risk!!
Ok, so that disclosed and your discretion employed, I remove the fuel line at the carby so we’re downstream of the pump. I poke the end of the fuel line into a jar. Remove the HT lead from the coil so the car can’t start then turn the motor over. If it spits fuel into the jar then the pump is pumping. The flow should seem very ample! If it’s marginal then replace the pump for sure.
If you spill any fuel it’s a fire risk, the alternator that sits below is a fantastic ignition source!! Be careful.
YellowTruck wrote:
the carb looks terrible , with dodgy zip tied closed vacuum lines
They all look terrible. They’re old and in my opinion they don’t work very well anymore. I’ve had them professionally rebuilt and it worked well for a while but still wasn’t great and has gradually got worse again.
YellowTruck wrote:
, with dodgy zip tied closed vacuum lines
Vacuum lines are a problem. Doesn’t matter if most of them are cable tied shut as long as there is NO air being sucked in. The only vac line that should be functional is the vacuum advance that advances the timing under throttle. All the rest are emission control that can either be there or not, providing there are no leaks or open ports.
YellowTruck wrote:
springs which don't look like they are attached to the right thing and what looks like bits missing etc. Going through the workshop manual, there seems to be a lot of electrical dodads attached which may or may not be working
Can’t comment on this without pics to go by. As far as electrical dodads, One is idle up for when there is electrical load, if you’re running the car at idle and turn on your high beams, the radio, the fridge and whatever else and your idle increases a little then that bits working. The other is ?idle solenoid?. Not sure how it works so won’t comment on this.
YellowTruck wrote:
Am I supposed to have a O2 Sensor for example to talk through the ECM to the carb?
There is no ECU, it’s all good old fashioned simple mechanics.
YellowTruck wrote:
I have pulled down and rebuilt a number of carbs over the years
I advise against this unless you want to try it for academic purposes. They are complicated and do not usually respond to a simple overhaul kit being run through them.
YellowTruck wrote:
am I better off to get an aftermarket one from ebay?
Yes. The usual trick here is to find a 4K corolla carby and put that in instead. They’re a simpler carby and although they are very similar to the stock carby you can buy them new for a couple hunj and they work well. They’re a manual choke and might require re-jetting to suit the Suzuki motor. There’s a thread in the ‘good tech’ section that gives you details on how to do it etc
YellowTruck wrote:
Is quality control an issue with suzuki after-market parts?
Depends on who you’re buying from and what it is. But generally speaking no, most stuff is fine.
See how you go with this lot and report back
Good
Luck!!
