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ainzy
Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 46 Location: Gladstone CQ
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 Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:55 am |
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hi all got a couple of questions for everyone i recently bought a zook that has been converted to SPOA and because i live in queensland i now have to convert it back my questions are:
when i go to locate the new spring mount brackets onto the underside of the diffs what angle should i set them at and how do i get a reference point to start off.. do i set the diff up so that the tail shaft flange is at true vertical then set the mounts at ??? degrees?.. i was planning on just copying the angle that the top mounted bracket is set at but im pretty sure it was mob of dodgy cun#s that did the job cause to set the steering up all they did was heat and bend the tie rod into a bloddy z'ed looking shape even its not parrallel ..
any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:56 am |
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Is it a WT or a NT sierra?
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 2:13 pm |
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its probably cheaper and easier to just buy some 2nd hand diff housings and bolt them in dude... you'll need to rectify shock mounts, driveshafts and steering though, as this all would (should) have changed with the SPOA.
edit: oh yeah - you'll need to flip the bolt in the middle of the spings too.
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lump_a_charcoal

az supporter
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 4454 Location: Botany, NSW
Vehicle: MY2019 Jimny
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 Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 9:45 pm |
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Plus, you will be able to sell the SPOA diffs to a n00b somewhere.
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ainzy
Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 46 Location: Gladstone CQ
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 Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:22 am |
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its a WT 94 model SWB i decided i prob gonna get new springs for it anyway as on close inspection they seem to look like they been suffering a bit of axle wrap and as far as i can tell its got stock tail shafts and steering rods so i prob just gotta line up some brackets, a tie rod and the angle info plus some beer and time nothing cant be acheived with enough beer and time.. plus some helpfull advice from you lot.. i have aq didigital angle gauge so soon as iget me stuff together i can fix this ... cheers all
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ainzy
Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 46 Location: Gladstone CQ
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 Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:30 am |
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with more web browseing ive come across a bit more info as far as i can tell i have to set the tail shaft flanges up parrallel and then set the spring perchs up level maybe a degree or two of castor for lifted springs if i go down that path.... does this sound like the right approach or am i barking up the wrong tree.
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want33s

az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8135 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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 Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 10:20 am |
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Find another stock WT and use your digital angle gauge to compare the pinion flange angle to the spring perch angle...
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ainzy
Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 46 Location: Gladstone CQ
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 Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 11:24 am |
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yeah thats on the option list to a mate reckons just set the king pins up level so dont get bump steer and then advance it two degrees to suit lifted springs i think ill end up measureing heaps before a decision is made.. thanks all
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skyman
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 2:06 pm Posts: 1328 Location: Yakima, wa (us)
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 Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 4:34 am |
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When we go to spring over, we match the angle of the spring under pads.
We set the diffs on a bench, and measure the distance between the front and back of the spring pads making sure to keep it equal.
No level, angles, or adding caster retired.
As long as the rig drives fine now, just match the new pads to the current ones.
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