[Red_October]

My transfer case drain plug is stuck. I've tried using the 10mm tool but it rounded the head. Next I welded a bolt to the end and then tried again. The result; a broken bolt. Next I welded a high tensile bolt to the end. The result; twisted metal under the weld. Next, I welded a bar to the middle of the plug and then another bar to the end of that to form an upside-down T. The result; twisted metal under the plug. Hmmmm, next option, cold chisel. The result, it was like cutting butter with a hot knife... Aaaah. Next option, drill it out and then tap to a smaller plug. The result, all went well until I hit the magnet at which point the drill refused to go any further (hi speed, diamond drill bit). I'm out of ideas.

In the mean time, I pumped the oil out from the filler plug hole. What came out of the t/case closely reflected what you'd find in a swamp rather than oil. I filled it back up with cheap oil, took it around the block and then sucked it out again. At this point, the only way I can see to completely flush the crap out of the /tcase is to drop it and drain all it's guts out the filler. Unless, of course, someone has a better idea?

I'll be looking at 6.5 gears in the not too distant future so I think i'll just pick up another case and rebuild that. God knows how long all that mud, silt and water has been in the case for. If the drain plug is anything to go by, then I'd say that it's never been changed.

Cheers,
Jimmy.

[mrw82]

get a hold of a pair of stillsons. be piss easy with the right tool for the job.

when you weld high tensile material it goes brittle and snap under any load (like what has happened to you)

[royce]

easy out, a good one

[eldo]

we sell left handed high tensile drill bits, sometimes they work, but usually your best option to try them first, then an easy out. all else fails you could try and tap a left handed thread into it then undo it, maybe with a freezing spray

[Red_October]

Cheers lads, i'll pick up an easyout this arvo. What size would you recommend?

[SuziBlu]

As big as possible, seriously.

What size hope did you drill, if its of size, get one to fit, or bigger.

[squirezook]

WOW! I hear your frustration with that one. My rear diff filler was like that, I tried a stilson and a hammer and that just bent the case. so I welded a mild steel bolt on and the heat from welding sorted it. It came out easy
Good luck with the eze out

[v.w.dave]

I had to hammer a tripple square bit into mine a few weeks ago and it worked a charm. But I have used heat from time to time.

[jdk81]

Yeah mine were incredibly stubborn and semi rounded before I bought the car.

A 3/8" drive on my rattle gun saved the day.

Except the rear diff filler plug was very rounded. Big pair of vice grips and a hammer made easy work of it though.

[Red_October]

I would've thought the heat from the welding would've cracked it but I had no luck. I'll swing past a tool shop on the way home.

[want33s]

You can get an aerosol of freeze spray. Spraying it onto the plug shrinks it and (sometimes) loosens it.

[sr20zook]

That freez spray is shit! I'd tour doing to use get at least 3 cans and give it all 3 in a row. And if gods listening you might just maybe get it out

[weaves]

Loctite freeze and release or wurth rost off (sp?) is what your after if your after those freeze sprays.

weaves.

[303zuke]

Would like to know how you go on this one, a personal interest you might say.

The previous owner of my 1.3 must have thought that Araldite makes a great thread sealer on my gearbox drain plug. I've tried a 3/8" and 10mm sq bit for the rounded off hole and a cold chisel just pares away metal and the plug's not gonna budge. Aside from the fact that I'd love to do an oil change, the rear seal is gone on the box and some of the bearings are making noise.

How do you remove a gearbox full of oil and with a leaking rear seal from a vehicle without wearing the oil, or coating the garage floor with it?

[Westie]

On these I use a good size Pin Punch (10mm min.) Angle grind a slot so you can get a good purchase on it with the punch and a good size hammer. might take a few good hits but the jar of hitting it will make it let go.

If you can not get a good swing on it with the hammer don't waist ya time tapping it.

Good hard sharp blows

[eldo]

weaves wrote:

Loctite freeze and release or wurth rost off (sp?) is what your after if your after those freeze sprays.

weaves.

rost off ice, but i only recomend it for 10mm bolts or smaller

[Scrawny]

303zuke wrote:

How do you remove a gearbox full of oil and with a leaking rear seal from a vehicle without wearing the oil, or coating the garage floor with it?

You can get plugs that fit in the slip joint where the drive shaft goes. Otherwise just hold up a container and let it drain into that. The seals aren't that easy to do in place

[shep]

303zuke wrote:

How do you remove a gearbox full of oil and with a leaking rear seal from a vehicle without wearing the oil, or coating the garage floor with it?

remove bolts from the bottom of the box until oil comes out.

[zacs7]

Weld the plug in and drill a hole for a new one

But seriously, I heated the outside of the rear diff plug to get mine out (not the plug of course).

[Brett]

don't listen to him, look at how much he heated up his car

i always just give them a tap with a hammer to help lossen them up.

[hutch]

You guys are all forgetting the most important thing...
a good swearing at it....
get.... out.... of .... there.... you..... f***ing...piece... of.... a.... mother....


work for me mostly

[lordviper556]

oxy

[steak_knife]

Give it to the apprentice to do, all the oil will drain out the f*#king big hole he'll make when the hammer misses the chisel

It's a tapered thread, & you get dick's thinking that it has to hold a head down tightening the be jebus out of it, Oxy on ally can end up with a melted case, frezze spray cost alot of money, swearing at it make's you feel good & scare's the cat.
If you snap an easy out in it your buggered, I'm yet to see a drill bit that will drill an easy out out! ( If you know of one please tell me)
Stilsance, if there is enough to grip, hammer & chissel work's well, Dave's method work's most time's.
If the above has failed,1. drill a hole in the center 2.swap to a bigger drill bit. 3 repeat step 1. 4 repeat step 2. ect until you can see the thread at the highest point of the plug, then TAP a torques bit or double hex into your oil leaking hole & undo. Easy

[ball]

steknig wrote:

Give it to the apprentice to do, all the oil will drain out the f*#king big hole he'll make when the hammer misses the chisel

It's a tapered thread, & you get dick's thinking that it has to hold a head down tightening the be jebus out of it, Oxy on ally can end up with a melted case, frezze spray cost alot of money, swearing at it make's you feel good & scare's the cat.
If you snap an easy out in it your buggered, I'm yet to see a drill bit that will drill an easy out out! ( If you know of one please tell me)
Stilsance, if there is enough to grip, hammer & chissel work's well, Dave's method work's most time's.
If the above has failed,1. drill a hole in the center 2.swap to a bigger drill bit. 3 repeat step 1. 4 repeat step 2. ect until you can see the thread at the highest point of the plug, then TAP a torques bit or double hex into your oil leaking hole & undo. Easy

I have used drills that were good enough to drill through a good quality file. They are called ARTU from memory.

I don't think they will work that well in a hand drill but in a drill press or mill they are brilliant.

[steak_knife]

ball wrote:

I have used drills that were good enough to drill through a good quality file. They are called ARTU from memory.

I don't think they will work that well in a hand drill but in a drill press or mill they are brilliant.

Price wise? thay wouldn't be cheap.

Drilling a file is a piece of work, But I must ask why.

[ball]

steknig wrote:

ball wrote:

I have used drills that were good enough to drill through a good quality file. They are called ARTU from memory.

I don't think they will work that well in a hand drill but in a drill press or mill they are brilliant.

Price wise? thay wouldn't be cheap.

Drilling a file is a piece of work, But I must ask why.

They weren't that expensive. I think a 10mm one was around $ 25 They look very similar to a masonry bit. I have actually resharpened masonry bits to cut steel.

The reason for drilling a file - to prove it could be done

[steak_knife]

ball wrote:

They weren't that expensive. I think a 10mm one was around $ 25 They look very similar to a masonry bit. I have actually resharpened masonry bits to cut steel.

The reason for drilling a file - to prove it could be done

I should of known, I do thing's cause I can..