[DMAC]

Just picked up the machined block, pistons, and cam today. Just wondering what people's view is on the best way to run in an engine?
Type of oil.
1st oil change kms.
Do I do the oil filter as well?

How do do you drive it. I know that you should vary speed and load but what's worked best for you guys?

Comments appreciated never had to run in a car before.

Should be the end of the smoke and a little more go, go.

[Zook_Fan]

flog the crap out of it . use a really light oil that is specifically for running in engines for the first lot of oil and change it out after 500kms or so.

[Bruce]

Drive it easy to normal for the first 200km , then drop that oil , you should be using specific runnin in oil at that time , throw the filter too,

put new filter and oil on , and drive it normally with the odd power. if u dont give it some power the rings wont bed the bore correctly , they will just glaze the bore. rings dont just need revs to bed them in so drive it fairly hard and then decellerate hard , almost to a stop , it gives somewhat the opposite effect of an engine revving on the rings.

Maybe retourqe the head at 1000km. and also do another oil and filter change.

depending how well it was cleaned before being put together you may well see quite a few iron shavings etc from the machining process when u first dump the oil at 200km.thats cool

[want33s]

I'd use a 10W40 oil and change it and the filter after 750-1000km.

Vary the speed and load as much as possible and don't rev it over 4500rpm for 1000km.

After that use 15W40 oil and flog it like it's stolen.

What was up with the old motor. Was it a cracked piston?

[woody1]

Well with my Jimny G13BB I used 15W40 oil and was told to flog it.
Don't let it idle, let these baby's rev.Take it for a drive on the beach.

[DMAC]

want33s wrote:

I'd use a 10W40 oil and change it and the filter after 750-1000km.

Vary the speed and load as much as possible and don't rev it over 4500rpm for 1000km.

After that use 15W40 oil and flog it like it's stolen.

What was up with the old motor. Was it a cracked piston?

Nup the internals were in excellent condition. The old man reckons because I changed the Brand/weight of oil it has cleaned out a lot of carbon around the oil ring which in turn let the oil past. I had done 3 oil changes within 2000 kms .
He thought I could have got away with just changing the rings as the bore had no lip etc. The engine reconditioners said the bore had slightly ovalised and a rebore was needed. Took the opportunity for a stage 2 cam regrind while I was at it. Hopefully LTM21 remembers how it goes back together.

[11_evl]

Running in??
They are always wearing out!!

[steak_knife]

want33s wrote:

I'd use a 10W40 oil and change it and the filter after 750-1000km.

Vary the speed and load as much as possible and don't rev it over 4500rpm for 1000km.

After that use 15W40 oil and flog it like it's stolen.

What was up with the old motor. Was it a cracked piston?

X2, let the eng know how it's going to be treated upfront.

[royce]

dont use friction modified oil
no excessive idling
dont hold constant revs, vary it
dont thrash it, bearings need to get shiny without tearing
new cam as well? were the rockers machined too? for that youll need cam lube and first start up needs to be held at say 1800rpm for 20 mins no load to bed the cam in

[DMAC]

Didn't have the crank touched as it was in good condition, but they lost my big end bearings so I have new ones to go on the original crank.
Rockers weren't machined. Don't tell me I've missed something.
What's cam lube?

[royce]

Ask the cam grinder if the rockers should be machined

cam lube, ask for it at a parts shop they will know, like assembly lube but thicker

[DMAC]

Cool, I'll call'm tomorrow.

Thanks for the info guys. Looks like I'll be doing circuits of Mt Mee. Mainly up and down steep fire trails.
Althought it has taken me 12 months to do 3000 kays and have never run a full tank of fuel through it on the road it may take a while.

[steak_knife]

DMAC wrote:

Cool, I'll call'm tomorrow.

Thanks for the info guys. Looks like I'll be doing circuits of Mt Mee. Mainly up and down steep fire trails.
Althought it has taken me 12 months to do 3000 kays and have never run a full tank of fuel through it on the road it may take a while.

Can I tag along??

[want33s]

royce wrote:

new cam as well? were the rockers machined too? for that youll need cam lube and first start up needs to be held at say 1800rpm for 20 mins no load to bed the cam in

1800-2000rpm startup is ONLY NEEDED for full cam bearings which Suzuki's don't have as the cam just runs in the head.

[jdk81]

royce wrote:

first start up needs to be held at say 1800rpm for 20 mins

We went off what Ian at Suziworld in Heidelberg said (my friend got his engine recoed).

Crank it over a few times without the dizzy leads connected, so the oil pump is working correctly.

Then run it at 1800 rpm until its at operating temp, then cange the oil filter and oil.

Then we fully loaded the car up, packed everything into the back of it we could find. Then we went and did a lot of hill work, putting it under very high load, without revving the guts out of it. Lots and lots of short shifting.
At 800km drop the oil and filter again.

Then pretty much drive it the way it normally gets used.
If you really really flog the car, you're advised to be somewhat gentle to it for another 1000 kms or so.

[zookster666]

steknig wrote:

want33s wrote:

I'd use a 10W40 oil and change it and the filter after 750-1000km.

Vary the speed and load as much as possible and don't rev it over 4500rpm for 1000km.

After that use 15W40 oil and flog it like it's stolen.

What was up with the old motor. Was it a cracked piston?

X2, let the eng know how it's going to be treated upfront.

thi is what I was always told specially back in my bike racing days but thete does need to be some carbon build up before flogging it

[royce]

want33s wrote:

royce wrote:

new cam as well? were the rockers machined too? for that youll need cam lube and first start up needs to be held at say 1800rpm for 20 mins no load to bed the cam in

1800-2000rpm startup is ONLY NEEDED for full cam bearings which Suzuki's don't have as the cam just runs in the head.

was under the impression it was to bed the lifters to cam lobes, but yeah still may not be applicable