[christover1]

welding steel mounts onto cast iron (diff)

Should I bother trying, get an expert, get a friend, or think of a non weld alternative?
I only got an arc welder and general purpose rods

[zuki]

christover1 wrote:

welding steel mounts onto cast iron (diff)

Should I bother trying, get an expert, get a friend, or think of a non weld alternative?
I only got an arc welder and general purpose rods

Depends what type of cast iron, I've welded cracked wood combustion stove tops using cast craft 100, must pre heat and peen after welding. Ideally you need rods/wire that has good nickel composition. also requires controlled cool down also.
Just my 2cents

David

[christover1]

Many thanks, I may practise on some junk first.
I need to put a mount onto a Sierra steel diff, to replace the aluminium diff fitted to the Vitara.

[alien]

can you make a u-bolt style setup for your mount? It'd most likely be stronger and safer.

[christover1]

alien wrote:

can you make a u-bolt style setup for your mount? It'd most likely be stronger and safer.

Yes I can, have a few ideas brewing...I usually stray away from welding when possible...maybe strapping it down.. but will look into that next chance I get

[joeblow]

i've done it before.....get an expert.

[christover1]

joeblow wrote:

i've done it before.....get an expert.

I think I'll go plan B or C once I think what they are

Something I can take off and put on another diff if need arises.

[alien]

what are you mounting anyway? lol

[christover1]

alien wrote:

what are you mounting anyway? lol

I'm fitting a Sierra steel diff to Vitara front.
The Alloy front diff on the vit has a bracket on it to tie it down to cross member..
The Sierra steel diff doesn't.
Can't find or afford a steel diff from a GV or easier source.

[royce]

there is no way known a diff carrier bit is cast iron, it would blow to bits

I would think its simple, but youll need lots of amps

[christover1]

royce wrote:

there is no way known a diff carrier bit is cast iron, it would blow to bits

I would think its simple, but youll need lots of amps

I just assumed it was, the pinion housing I mean, looks like it, will check that out tomorrow.

[royce]

More likely forged

[christover1]

royce wrote:

More likely forged

If so, is welding more achievable for a welding dunce, and how do I check wether forged or cast?
thanks
christover

[Gwagensteve]

They are cast, not forged.

I'm going to assume they are nodular iron (most Japanese third members are) not grey cast iron (like the Ford 9")

I do think it's weldable without too much hassle, but the key is designing the part in a way that doesn't place unnecessary stress on the weld - i.e using tacks or stitch welds to locate an encircling bracket rather than welding a lug on that sees the full load.

Steve.

[royce]

if they are nodular iron they will be shit to weld due to the carbon content, I wouldnt try

[ainzy]

they are cast steel not iron .. use a cigweld rod i pretty sure they a a high ferrous rod called ferrocraft55 they are black in colour and they flux coating has stuff in it that lays down bulk ferrous metal which is good when it comes to cast gear cause it helps to fill the porossity thats inherrant in the casting process.... ill ask my bro to confirm though he is special class welder...

[alien]

you're talking about a safety issue though... this isnt a time to cut corners. If welding is the easiest option, can you not go to a fabrication place and have an experienced welder do the job for a carton?

[christover1]

alien wrote:

you're talking about a safety issue though... this isnt a time to cut corners. If welding is the easiest option, can you not go to a fabrication place and have an experienced welder do the job for a carton?

If I go the welding route, I will cut, shape, and position everything and take to a pro, yep. Learnt enough to know I won't be welding it.
But I may make a wrap around collar up, which can better be welded to, and could be transferred to another diff if needed.