[shep]

i am thinking of replacing my transfer case drum handbrake with a electrically activated caliper and disk.
any reasons why i shouldn't?

[steve]

Do you use your handbrake? I thought it was flat there?

[shep]

it would be handy having an effective handbrake when launching/retrieving my boat.

[royce]

are electric trailer calipers any good at holding when not moving?

how about a linelok solenoid?

[lordfury007]

Wait - so its not just my sierra's rear brakes that are rooted?

I mean, they work, but they're not good by any stretch of the imagination...

[hutch]

shep wrote:

i am thinking of replacing my transfer case drum handbrake with a electrically activated caliper and disk.
any reasons why i shouldn't?

interesting... does it replace the drum on the transfercase assembly or go on the wheels if ya know what I mean?

[Crunched]

Does the solenoid in this system require power to hold the brakes on, or off? Because if it needs power to hold the brakes on, it won't be much good overnight.

[stockman]

I thought pure Shep style would be a couple of bricks.

[whincup]

lordfury007 wrote:

Wait - so its not just my sierra's rear brakes that are rooted?

I mean, they work, but they're not good by any stretch of the imagination...

depends. my car was just dropped off at mechanics, towed there due to brake lines needing bleeding, handbrake held the car no worries, and slowed it down while rolling off the truck... then again, my rear brake shoes havent even been used yet, theyre that new...

Shep: i dont know much about electric handbrakes, and please forgive the stupid question, but have you tried just replacing the rear brake shoes? (if they need it)... made a good difference to mine, my handbrake didnt work at all, now its great. mind you, i dont launch boats...

[steve]

he's talking about a NT transfer case that has the handbrake on the transfer case/drive shaft. It's not connected to the rear brakes.

I know you can buy disk handbrake conversions, probably from low range or someone like that.

[Fatzook]

whincup wrote:

lordfury007 wrote:

Wait - so its not just my sierra's rear brakes that are rooted?

I mean, they work, but they're not good by any stretch of the imagination...

depends. my car was just dropped off at mechanics, towed there due to brake lines needing bleeding, handbrake held the car no worries, and slowed it down while rolling off the truck... then again, my rear brake shoes havent even been used yet, theyre that new...

Shep: i dont know much about electric handbrakes, and please forgive the stupid question, but have you tried just replacing the rear brake shoes? (if they need it)... made a good difference to mine, my handbrake didnt work at all, now its great. mind you, i dont launch boats...

Shep doesn't have the handbrake in the read drums like you do. He has a transfer case mounted drum handbrake. I think he plans to mount an electronic caliper on a rotor at t he transfer case.

[Fatzook]

steve wrote:

he's talking about a NT transfer case that has the handbrake on the transfer case/drive shaft. It's not connected to the rear brakes.

I know you can buy disk handbrake conversions, probably from low range or someone like that.

Doh! Too slow

The discbrake rotors in those kits are no bigger in diameter to the drum, but are quite easy to bend due to their thickness of 8mm. The factory drum will take a beating before it bends, but the rotor will take sweet FA to damage.

You could always make a belly skid blate though. That would keep the new rotor safe.

[TZAR]

shep wrote:

i am thinking of replacing my transfer case drum handbrake with a electrically activated caliper and disk.
any reasons why i shouldn't?

some reasons

Park car on hill
have some beers gets dark have some more
get some stuff from car but its dark so turn on lights
too drunk to remember to turn of light
battery goes flat
sober up go to clutch start car oops won't move cause I need electricity to turn off my handbrakle
OR
sober up where is my car oops its in billybobs house down the road

or your in the water and launching your boat and captain fucktard goes past in his boat at 1 gazillion knots and sends a big arse salt water wave up under your car causing everything to get wet. Later you are using your handbrake but the corrosion gets in the dodgy shep wiring and it doesn't work rolling on your foot.

We all laugh and call you a dickhead then you realise it could have been worse and been your son. You suddenly grow up stop having fun and stop being Shep........

You could get a inline handbrake that will lock on the rear wheel brakes at the push of a button

You push the pedal down and then push buttton and the brakes stay locked on and to realise you just push realease the button or this in line ball valve would be more shep style

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?photoid=224267&.jpg cant hotlink piccy


this one has an inline proportioning valve too so you can adjust you brakes on the fly for the ultimate ricerbiality
http://www.arizonazcar.com/300zxbrakes.html
only $29.00US

google line lock park brake

[royce]

or jsut fix the transfer brake, stick some new shoes in and adjust it off the adjsuter in the drum not the cable and it will work pretty well as long as both wheels are on the ground

or make a stick that wedges between the brake pedal and the dash support bar

[mightymouse]

Have used a cable operated subaru calliper with home made disc on a coaster bus lot heavier than a suzy. It worked a treat and is still working 3 years later. Not too difficult to do parts are available @ your local wreckers.

[needmorelift]

hey shep have you thought about running a hydro handbrake? would be better than electric i bet

[shep]

i love how people make shit up and then think it is fact. electric calipers need
power to turn on and off but not to hold.


hay tzar, perhaps you should lay off the drugs a bit as your posts are starting to
be a bit silly

what could be easier then just flicking a switch for an awesome handbrake, and if it is good enough for Audi (and lots of other euro manufacturers) it would be kick arse on a sierra.

[Gwagensteve]

I run one of these:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... k-kit.html

works a treat.

Steve.

[Bruce]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I run one of these:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... k-kit.html

works a treat.

Steve.

Tell me more please

[Gwagensteve]

What do you need to know?

Steve.

[TZAR]

What I meant Shep was that if you have no power then you can't clutch start your car. Like if you leave your lights on parked at a shopping centre or other such occurence. Dead flat batteries can be very annoying. I know this only needs a little power to deactivate but I have had on two completly different makes of diesel engine cars that will not start cause they have no power to deactivate the engine kill solenoid and that is roughly the same size as this one.

That is why I think this would be more simple. I know the electric one can be used as an anti theft device too but if you put this one next to the seat then it would be hard to now what it is.

Where you are I think simpler is better. Would be a nightmare if the tide was coming in and the electrics played up
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... -lock.html

I just don't like things which can fail in the worst sitation leaving you stuck.

I looked at a disc brake handbrake with a small motor bike caliper and little master cylinder for my car but a drum brake has better holding force than a disc brake.

[shep]

i have 2 battery's that can start the car plus there is a distinct lack of both shopping centers and alcohol here.

drum brakes do work well except when constantly exposed to crap they wear out in about 3 weeks.

[nissvit]

Gwagensteve wrote:

What do you need to know?

Steve.

do these just go in the rear hydraulic brake lines??....
so they lock the brakes on once you have pushed the brake pedal?

or does it generate the hydraulic pressure to hold the brakes on in the unit itself?

[royce]

hang on show me one that only needs power to activate then deactivate, think youll find they need power applied all the time they are locked and those linelock kits say that arent for constant use

[Gwagensteve]

They go in whatever brake line you want - you could run one on each wheel if you wanted. I have mine on my rear brake line as I have a rear drive disconnect.

With no power applied, they do nothing at all.

They come supplied with a (crappy quality) momentary switch for the gear lever and a light for the dash.

I added a constant on switch so I can use it as a handbrake offroad.

Engage foot brake, throw switch, release foot brake - the brakes stay locked on at whatever pressure you applied. I have rear discs and a Forester GT M/C so I can apply lots of caliper pressure - I have enough clamping pressure on the rear to hold the car on any hill when in 4WD.

The supplied kit from Lowrange requires some adapters to plumb the hard lines in.

The obvious use is for zero rollback launches on steep hills.

They don't consume much power (not over 2 amps) but I would not use one to keep the car safe long term. Perfect for off road use though.

They also work as a one way valve when engaged, so (with the correct switching) you can engage the lock, then punch the brake whenever you need it and it will stay on.

I must stress these aren't legal as a handbrake (and maybe not legal to be on your car at all, except in NT:D) but they are a cracker in the bush.

Steve.

[just_cruizin]

I think this is the go

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... -lock.html

[Gwagensteve]

They can bleed back too, and need much more complicated hard line mods to put in a place where you can get to it. They also don't have the instant, fingertip release of an electric solenoid line lock.

If I'm trying for a 6500rpm third low clutch dump launch on a scary line, I don't want to have to grope around an pull a valve up to release the brake.

Might be OK as a longer term unpowered option as a park brake, but they will creep off over time.

I've heard they even release once the brakes cool due to contraction of the disc rotor.

Steve.

[skelaaleks]

Hydro park brake plumbed into rear brake lines would be the go
Much better than a line locker kit for what u want as it can be used like a normal park brake and pressure adjustmwnt for hill starts is easy as. Just lift it up or put it down:)