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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:31 am 
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Ok it sceems every one has done it.. but exactly how?
i was thinking of filling in the side gears enough so they cant spin on the spider gears? is this corect? as far as i know your not ment to actualy weld the gears together?

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:35 am 
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best way I have seen is to weld the side gear to the part of the housing you pull off to get at all the gear

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:36 am 
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weld all the spider gears together( ie side gears to the other gears to form a solid spool),some people put bits of steel in there to help fill the welds

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:40 am 
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Just did a quick search this might help. It's for a 180sx/240sx Says open diff so should be similar (given i haven't seen the inside of a zook diff)


http://zilvia.net/f/archive-faqs/148126 ... roved.html

Edit: or this one? http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/pub ... -lock.html

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:45 am 
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thanks to jas for this one

http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axle/weldeddiff1/

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:48 am 
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=763645

Always liked this version myself ;)

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:51 am 
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45tr0 wrote:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=763645

Always liked this version myself ;)
Haha oops welded the wrong thing - Take note folks this is what not to do.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:53 am 
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I have welded the rear diffs in my snotbox and in NFI this way: http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axle/w ... index.html

Both cop a lot of abuse and both are still holding up well with no issues at all (snotboxes has been in for a year and a half now, driven on road and off)

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:54 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:



beat me to it.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 7:06 am 
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i wouldn't do it the way jas mrw82, i think that the clinking of that method would be a killer to the life of the diff, i would weld it solid so that it's all smooth and together, not throwing the force side to side when hill climbing....

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 7:20 am 
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actually it has the benefit of having a bit of 'give' in it. although I have heard of it forcing the side gears outwards causing them to slip and detonate, but haven't seen it first hand. and like I said, I've got 2 diffs done this way which cop a hiding and haven't had any issues.


and this way you're not relying on the strength of an oil contaminated weld. because the weld isn't holding, it's just filling the gap in the tooth of the side gear.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 7:47 am 
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I wouldn't recvommend ANYONE WELD A DIFF but if you HAVE TO BE CHEAP then the Island link is the best way to do it....... It is the only way that is reversible given you have another set of side and planetary gears.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 8:01 am 
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my rear was welded before i went airlocker because it shat itself, and the airlocker was always on the cards... so it was welded for a year while i saved up etc to do my mods.

Mine was done solid - everything welded to everything - but the center was taken out, degreased, then put back in using nuts and bolts jammed in where possible and welded into place. The end result was VERY ugly looking, but super solid. never broke in the time i had it, and it got thrashed!

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 8:04 am 
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if you pull 2 side gears and 2 spiders gear out you can weld it completly outside of the housing then install it, you will need another set internal gears to reverse it, but that was going to be needed anyway with any welding method.... thats how i did my last front center in my swb, i used a 2pin also....

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 7:31 pm 
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This is how i did it and it works perfectly and didn't feel any different on the road.

http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axle/weldeddiff1/

Mind you I am running extremes so I imagine they aren't putting up too much resistence whilst turning tightly.

This way also gives a very very small amount of spin before lockup so it's not binding 100% of the time.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 8:19 pm 
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make sure u heat temper the casting before u weld it so ur welds bond to the casting and use oil in a bucket dunk it in and out to re harden the casting and u will never have a prob if u drive it to suit i welded my maets up 6 years ago still workn just have to replace pinoion seals a bit more hope this helps :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 5:49 am 
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Welding a few valleys on the side gears can cause the gears to ride up over each other, pulling the centre apart. I have seen two dffs go like this, but they abuse they were copping was probably a big part of it too. I have welded them solid and had no problem, breaking axles before the diff went.

Layto....

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 5:59 am 
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i just done mine, i welded the shit out of everything. same as filling with bolts i geuss but i just used the weld metal. alot heavier than when i started though

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:01 am 
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i wanted to buy a mini spool, but i have no reason to spend money on things i could just make.... so i did this instead i left the last side gear unwelded so i coulds assemble it in the pins inside of it..

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