| Author |
Message |
Jason
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:08 am Posts: 45 Location: Brisbane 4053
Vehicle: 2001 Jimny M13a
|
 Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 1:41 am |
|
|
Hello everyone,
Long time lurker first time poster. I have a 2001 Jimny (M13A) and I love it. It's pretty standard except for the tires and I do go off road a bit but nothing extreme. I've managed to do all the servicing and fixing things myself so far but nothing too drastic has happened until now. Yesterday I changed the fan belts, however, in the process of removing the fan to get the alternator belt past it the clearance was very tight and I have pushed the fan into the back of the radiator and now it leaks.
I've tried a bottle of rad-fix type "pour it in, drive it and it will fix the leak" but it's not worked.
So I figure I need a new rad. At the moment I can still drive it, it seems to leak less when running but once it's hot and then when I stop it goes from a drip to a run, plus, because it's leaking into the fan it's getting sprayed everywhere when the engine is running.
So my questions are...
I'm thinking of taking it to a garage, I've searched on rad problems and seen talk of "my rad man says..." so I figure there's some specialist radiator places??
How hard would this be to do myself? I do worry though that because I can still drive it at the moment I can get it somewhere, but if I try it myself and get it in bits and make it worse then I'm stuck at home and will need a tow/collect. = more $$
I'm thinking, new rad and while it's there get a new thermostat and a good flush etc and done properly should all be sweet again.
Any recommendations??? I'm Brisbane north side, Windsor/Newmarket area.
Thanks,
Jason
|
|
|
|
 |
Benz
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 1006 Location: Cervantes WA
|
 Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:34 am |
|
|
new rad will cost you about $400.
pretty easy to pull out and put back in again.
not sure if you need to do the thermostat.
but you may want to replace your hoses if they are looking a little perished.
give it a go.
just make sure you have enough coolant and water to fill it back up.
don't use tap water...
|
|
|
|
 |
cairns27
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2010 7:42 pm Posts: 489 Location: Macleay Island
Vehicle: '95 Vitara JXI LWB G16B
|
 Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:51 am |
|
|
If ya poor just use needle nose pliers and squeese either side of the leak, and empty a couple of teaspoons of pepper in, always drive to the temperature guage; oil,fuel nothing else maters.
Don't plan any long trips till it's fixed properly, but this will work for a few years.
bye
|
|
|
|
 |
Benz
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 1006 Location: Cervantes WA
|
 Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 5:01 am |
|
|
used this liquid metal stuff to fix mine for a while.
but I then put a new one in so i could travel long distances worry free
|
|
|
|
 |
alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
|
 Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 5:21 am |
|
|
|
 |
coily96

az supporter
Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 11:50 am Posts: 823 Location: Beenleigh
Vehicle: Coil Sierra
|
 Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 7:34 am |
|
|
|
 |
Jason
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:08 am Posts: 45 Location: Brisbane 4053
Vehicle: 2001 Jimny M13a
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 5:56 am |
|
|
Thanks for the replies, and the PM Coily. Soz, wish I'd come back for another look before rininging round on Monday.
Benz you were spot on with the price, got quoted $395 for the part or fitted, flushed and pressure tested, etc for another 100. Went for the latter in the end as I'd put laods of crap in there to try and fix the leak so wanted to try and get that out.
Cheers.
|
|
|
|
 |
TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:34 am |
|
|
My mechanic put me onto the Wurth's Stop Leak stuff for my little leak. It worked as I don't have a leak anymore.
It costs about $18 for the bottle.
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
|
|
|
|
 |
Benz
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 1006 Location: Cervantes WA
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:05 am |
|
|
think he's tried that.
i replaced my radiator last year....
that was a expensive mistake... silly weak radiator....
|
|
|
|
 |
TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:21 am |
|
Benz2369 wrote: think he's tried that.
i replaced my radiator last year....
that was a expensive mistake... silly weak radiator....
What brand was the cheap radiator and roughly how much was it? I was looking at a new radiator before I tried the Wurth's stuff
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
|
|
|
|
 |
atari4x4

az supporter
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:30 pm Posts: 34842 Location: East Radelayed
Vehicle: SV420+SV620 Vitara's
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:22 am |
|
TheOtherLeft wrote: My mechanic put me onto the Wurth's Stop Leak stuff for my little leak. It worked as I don't have a leak anymore.
It costs about $18 for the bottle.
is that the same mechanic that said your disks didn't need machining?
there is no way i'd ever use any of those products on a car i plan to keep, i'd use it in an emergency situation or the time i used 3 bottles of chemi-weld to fix up a head warping pootrol enough to be able to sell it a bit more than scrap value.
_________________ You're just hating because you don't understand
|
|
|
|
 |
TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:24 am |
|
atari4x4 wrote: TheOtherLeft wrote: My mechanic put me onto the Wurth's Stop Leak stuff for my little leak. It worked as I don't have a leak anymore.
It costs about $18 for the bottle. is that the same mechanic that said your disks didn't need machining? there is no way i'd ever use any of those products on a car i plan to keep, i'd use it in an emergency situation or the time i used 3 bottles of chemi-weld to fix up a head warping pootrol enough to be able to sell it a bit more than scrap value.
Well the stuff seems to be working fine so and nothings blocked... yet.
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
|
|
|
|
 |
Benz
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 1006 Location: Cervantes WA
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:26 am |
|
TheOtherLeft wrote: Benz2369 wrote: think he's tried that.
i replaced my radiator last year....
that was a expensive mistake... silly weak radiator.... What brand was the cheap radiator and roughly how much was it? I was looking at a new radiator before I tried the Wurth's stuff
mine cost me $400 for and denso one. (factory one)
and huh?
cheap?
|
|
|
|
 |
BAZZOOK
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 1052 Location: MORNINGTON. VIC
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:26 am |
|
|
just replaced mine b4 xmas. was quoted $420 from Autobarn. a local rad shop supplied one for $315.00, so shop around.
ps. rad shop said it was an aluminium rad and couldn't be repaired.
easy to fit and as said fit new hoses.
|
|
|
|
 |
Teracis
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:03 pm Posts: 2261 Location: Gold Coast
Vehicle: Daisy
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:30 am |
|
|
Be careful with high pressure hoses too, I was washing my zook the other day and thought there was some mud on the radiator, so I hit it with the hose and was like wtf it's getting dirtier??? For about half a second, then I realised it was copper...
Didn't blow a hole in it luckily but would have thought the hose wouldn't bust it at that distance!
|
|
|
|
 |
TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:15 pm |
|
Benz2369 wrote: TheOtherLeft wrote: Benz2369 wrote: think he's tried that.
i replaced my radiator last year....
that was a expensive mistake... silly weak radiator.... What brand was the cheap radiator and roughly how much was it? I was looking at a new radiator before I tried the Wurth's stuff mine cost me $400 for and denso one. (factory one) and huh? cheap?
Factory radiators are around $800, a PWR rad for my GV was aroung $900
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
|
|
|
|
 |
Benz
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 1006 Location: Cervantes WA
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:29 pm |
|
|
yeah?
though denso made them for suzuki?
exact same one as i pulled out of there.
could be wrong though as the car is second hand.
$800 is a bit steep
|
|
|
|
 |
TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
|
 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:32 pm |
|
|
Yeah I was quoted somehwere between $250-300 for an aftermarket one. My only concern is the quality of them.
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
|
|
|
|
 |
Jason
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:08 am Posts: 45 Location: Brisbane 4053
Vehicle: 2001 Jimny M13a
|
 Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 6:19 am |
|
|
Not sure what the brand of the stuff I put in was but it wasn't Wurth. I can't see a brand on the new rad, it was through Red Devil and has a 2 yr warranty. Went for a long drive at the weekend and I'm loosing coolant. Seems to be coming from the plastic drain plug at the bottom of the rad.
|
|
|
|
 |
Jasen
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 86 Location: Toowoomba
|
 Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 7:03 am |
|
|
check the o-ring (quadring?) on the drain plug and also make sure the thread is ok. I've seen these strip threads quite alot - usually by someone being overzealous in tightening it. Since it's a new rad it might've been loose-ish to begin with but not leaking until it's warm and pressurised.
|
|
|
|
 |
dm90
Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4349 Location: Perth
|
 Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:32 am |
|
|
|
 |
monley

az supporter
Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2010 7:58 am Posts: 11092 Location: Mandurah.W.A.
Vehicle: 84 LWB NT
|
 Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:28 am |
|
dm90 wrote: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsswIRkAjfU could try this????? these guys are hilarious 

_________________ Tell my arse, he actually gives a crap!
|
|
|
|
 |
Jason
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:08 am Posts: 45 Location: Brisbane 4053
Vehicle: 2001 Jimny M13a
|
 Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:41 am |
|
There is no o-ring at all haha, so that might be the problem, but it's not leaking out arounf the plastic screw but out of the drain hole that is open when the screw is loosened. However, I don't think I'm loosing much, the initial loss to the reservoir was it just finding it's level after the new rad.
Thanks guys, that vid is funny. 
|
|
|
|
 |
Jasen
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 86 Location: Toowoomba
|
 Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 1:48 am |
|
Jason wrote: There is no o-ring at all haha, so that might be the problem, but it's not leaking out arounf the plastic screw but out of the drain hole that is open when the screw is loosened...
Ah ok - was thinkin it was a different style of drain plug. If it's the one that is like a tap - they should have an o-ring on the tap shaft ( u can see it if u screw the whole thing out). If it's a new rad and it continues to leak here i'd just drop back into the rad shop and get them to have a quick look at it. Would be quite obvious to them if it's been leakin there.
Am about to start lookin round for a new rad myself. Protip - if u use any type of 'quick-fix' stop leak type stuff, flush ur rad as soon as u can cause i'm sure mine is about 80% blocked now (had to use 2 bottles of the crapshit to get home a few wks ago) - will warm up and temp just keeps rising to red (although occasionally it will work ok for a day then stuff up the next lol)
|
|
|
|
 |
Jason
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:08 am Posts: 45 Location: Brisbane 4053
Vehicle: 2001 Jimny M13a
|
 Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 5:48 am |
|
|
|
 |
|