[Che]

Getting toey, should have a new motor in the Sierra by this time next week if all the stars and planets can align for me. It's been running like a 3 cylinder diesel since the moment I hit WA, so I can't wait for the change


Gonna do the first runs on a dyno as it's a controlled environment, and ultimately the first 50 kms will play the biggest card in the rest of the motor's life.

I've read a few articles by internet experts (like this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) and the gist seems to be to do three runs to about 50% throttle, three runs to about 75%, then another 3 runs near to 100%. Take 15 minutes to cool down between the sets, all in 4th gear, and let the car decelerate itself to suck all the shit out the exhaust. After this I can do the rest of the break in on the streets.


Does this sound like good advice? I want to have some sort of plan when I hit the dyno rather than a random vroom vroom through the RPM range. I've never used a dyno (or broken in an engine), so I got no idea, but I want to get it right first time. All advice is good advice...well, maybe


Also - i'll probably be running a g13 Aisin carb during this process, is that gonna be a problem seeing it's a G16 i'm breaking in? Tracking down a working G16 carby is proving harder than I thought.

[harvs]

Maybe not what you want to hear, but I personally wouldn't waste your money on the dyno.

Great for race engines that have no hope of being run in otherwise.

However I've never seen any properly objective evidence that it makes any significant difference beyond the old school techniques of running in an engine on the road. So seems like a waste of time and money to me.

Happy to be corrected though...

[Che]

If it's a waste of time i'm all ears too

[31zook]

if there is machining involved, (boring, ground cams etc...) you will want to not rev it super hard at first as the oil will pick up bits of metal that you didn't clean out and you don't want a chunck of bore stuck under one of your valves..... dyno if it's running custom internals (seriously custom) forced injection, or an aftermarket ECU.

and your 1.3 carby will run really poorly i would assume on a bigger engine, or at least have no pick up/top end.

[harvs]

If it's a pretty standard engine (i.e. no custom forged pistons, stroker kits etc.) then sticking pretty close to the manufacturers recommendation never gets you too far wrong.

That generally means avoiding high RPM, avoiding constant RPM (varying speed on straights) and getting the engine under load (like climbing hills) during the first thousand or so kms.

I read a pretty good tech artical a while back from a motorcycle mag. They ran in a number of the same bikes using all sorts of methods, from super conservative through to taking it straight to the track. Apparently the resulting difference at the end of it all was absolutely f all. But that's on a modern engine.

There's probably a small amount of truth in what that website is talking about, but on what is a relatively low performance engine, it's blown way out of proportion.

[MrRocky]

just drive that fucker, thats the best way to run a new engine in
load it up gradually and vary your speed. A nice run up to lancelin is full of mild hills and has always done the job for me.
Remember most cars that get run in on dyno's are race engine that dont really need to be run in, its pretty much check for leaks and oil pressure then full noise.
Give the rings time to bed in and change your oil (use mineral oil) after 800-1000kms. Dont rev that sucka over 4500-5000rpm for anything more than a sec or two

[skyman]

I would make sure to run a very good oil, i you can find one specifically for breaking in an engine, use it.

Here I use road train Diesel oil sold in gallons, it goes by the brand name "Delo" here. not only is it cheaper, it has all the good ingredients that have been taken out of regular oil years ago. The diesels require a better oil to keep them running for a half a million miles between rebuilds.

Rumor has it that the Diesel engine manufacturers would not warranty engines run on the shit oil they sell at parts stores these days.

I know that Dello is still good old fashioned Dino oil, there is another brand but I can't remember it off hand.

[harvs]

Big difference between diesel oil and standard petrol engine oils is the diesel oils are a detergent oil. This breaks down carbon deposits in the engine, stops them from building up carbon in the ring lands etc.

Don't know if you want to run it in on a detergent oil though?

A couple of years ago I use to work on radial piston aircraft. They use to run in on a standard mineral oil then switch over to the detergent oil afterwards.

Hate to say it again, but what does the OEM manual say to run it in on?

[Fatzook]

Yeah I would run it in on a Run-in oil, then swap to normal GAS oil for a few services. Then swap to diesel oil forever.

[JrZook]

U priced up dyno time these days che?

I'm sure your moneys could be spent else where like getting an O2 sensor fitted and a small readout gauge with it.

As others have said, there isn't anything radically different on your engine, so just run it in on the street. Make sure it doesn't ping or run stupidly lean.

[Che]

che_guitarra wrote:

i'll probably be running a g13 Aisin carb during this process, is that gonna be a problem seeing it's a G16 i'm breaking in? Tracking down a working G16 carby is proving harder than I thought.

Is this gonna be a spanner in the works? I'll ask at Suzistore tomorrow, just getting an idea on this forum too. Not sure if using an Aisin will affect the whole rev range or just top end when I try for 100% throttle.

[MrRocky]

think you will find it makes zero difference

[Rhinoman]

The only proper test that I've seen was on motorcycles, they thrashed two straight from the crate and ran in two to the manufacturers specs. The bikes thrashed from the start made a few extra bhp but showed more wear at the end of a season.

Running in on the dyno won't be much use as you won't be able to vary the load very well unless its a very good dyno and can hold a constant load. How many hours do you plan to run?

As far as the carb is concerened, that will affect the power throughout the rev range. A power run will be done at full throttle so the G13 carb will be very restrictive and don't forget that peak air flow is at max. torque which is around 3500rpm.

[MrRocky]

Rhinoman wrote:

the G13 carb will be very restrictive. and don't forget that peak air flow is at max. torque which is around 3500rpm.

bet it wont make fuk all difference maybe 3-4 hp tops

[Rhinoman]

It will be interesting to see the dyno chart. a G13 carb is much smaller than a G16 carb. Is this running a G16 manifold or a G13, port matched or not?
It won't make full power until its run in anyway.

[JrZook]

Rhinoman wrote:

It will be interesting to see the dyno chart. a G13 carb is much smaller than a G16 carb. Is this running a G16 manifold or a G13, port matched or not?
It won't make full power until its run in anyway.

G16 is a 30/32 carb I believe, where as the G13 is a 26/28 which may I add is jetted slightly on the lean side even for a bog stock G13.

Mr rocky, 4hp on an engine that nominally puts out ~60HP is still quite significant. That's roughly 7% gain!

[MrRocky]

sadly only the dyno knows the true figures and the fact all suzi owners are tightarses means no-one will ever know

[Rhinoman]

That sounds about right, when I worked it out a few years back the difference was about 20% by area. I ran a port matched SJ manifold and carb on a G16 and that was very restrictive although it may be less so with a G16 manifold.
I also knew someone who fitted a Vit carb to an G13 and got a big power gain from that.

[alien]

i ran the 1.3 carby on my 1.6 before going to a weber and the difference was the 1.6 conversion all over again.

i'd be inclined to lose the 1.3 carby also - but seeing as you're swapping it to gas again later theres no point, just run it in on the aisin.

[Che]

Suzisport say they leave the Aisin carbs on for their conversions, so no problems there. They also thought a dyno was a waste of money (good, cred card is being punished of late)... just a matter of turning over ~5000Ks with the carby + petrol, don't be a demon or grandma about it, then I can switch back to laughing gas and install this bad boy:



52mm Kia/Hyundai TB.... fits my mixer ring like a glove, and spare manifold is ported and adapted to suit. Should be a nice little upgrade once it's on

Conversion is happening at the right time - if I didn't have a slope out the front to get a rolling start from there's no way the car woulda started the last few mornings


MrRocky, a bit slow in checking my PMs - i'll buzz ya in the next 24 hours. Bed right now though, absolutely shagged