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Post Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:08 pm 
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Does anybody know for sure if a Vit 8 valve carby motor and a 16 valve injected have the same bottom end? Need to know if a complete 8v bottom end can be used to repair a 16v which has hung a rod ( even smashed the starter)

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:39 pm 
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I have a 16-valve head on a 8-valve bottom end. It fits :)

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:34 pm 
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16 valve crank has the same size journals and is fully counterweighted.
the 8 valve has half counterweights.
early 16 valves have a cap brace thats runs the length of the bottom end, late model 16 valves have thicker caps and a larger cast area in the engine for said caps.
pistons are different on top, thats a no brainer.

i would change the pistons over as i would not want to leave this to chance.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:16 am 
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joeblow wrote:
16 valve crank has the same size journals and is fully counterweighted.
the 8 valve has half counterweights.
early 16 valves have a cap brace thats runs the length of the bottom end, late model 16 valves have thicker caps and a larger cast area in the engine for said caps.
pistons are different on top, thats a no brainer.

i would change the pistons over as i would not want to leave this to chance.


Any strength difference noted between model with the cap brace and without?

I have one with a cap brace in my sierra.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:12 am 
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Thanks for the replies, I haven't pulled it apart yet, my son bought it as is. Pretty sure it already is a 8v bottom end and 16v injected top end. The guy ran it to the limiter all the time, on the occasion it let go he had been driving it in the river to wash the mud off and drowned it (don't know if he hydrauliced it) but he got it going again and on the way home ran it to the limiter and when he backed off she went bang. Of course he drove it home, mustn't have even shut it down to check cause the starter was smashed off.
So what you said Joe makes a few things clearer, especially about the crank.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:37 am 
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On a related note, does anyone know any differences between Vit & Baleno 16v heads?

I know the dizzy drive setup is different, not sure about cam profiles or combustion chamber volume though. And I have heard quite a few times that the Baleno heads are supposed to be prone to cracking, in fact, I have one that is cracked and has been repaired. Considering the state of the oil in it though, it's hardly suprising :roll:

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:47 am 
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Damo wrote:
On a related note, does anyone know any differences between Vit & Baleno 16v heads?

I know the dizzy drive setup is different, not sure about cam profiles or combustion chamber volume though. And I have heard quite a few times that the Baleno heads are supposed to be prone to cracking, in fact, I have one that is cracked and has been repaired. Considering the state of the oil in it though, it's hardly suprising :roll:


pretty much the same head including profiles etc. the swift tbi head is the most common to crack, in fact i'm yet to see one that hasn't (hence why i do a conversion plate from tbi manifold to mpi head). the vit heads (mpi) are very good (later ones even better) and i've only come accross 2 myself out of 50 or so engines, BUT on late model type 2 vits watch out around the welch plug near the starter motor, she might develope a crack. :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:10 am 
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3cyl wrote:
Does anybody know for sure if a Vit 8 valve carby motor and a 16 valve injected have the same bottom end? Need to know if a complete 8v bottom end can be used to repair a 16v which has hung a rod ( even smashed the starter)


thats an electrical starting fault right there, not to be confused with an electrical charging fault where number comes out and knocks the alternator off :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:09 pm 
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Began pulling the engine apart today and as I've only really worked on dinosaur engines before (either pushrod or 2 stroke) I have a few questions for Joe regarding identification of the bottom end (it has a brace on the mains but only 1/2 counterweights?) Also when the camshaft and crank pulley marks are aligned, no.4 is firing is this right? edit; Or are these full counterweights as they're on both sides of the rods?


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Post Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:03 pm 
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yes, early fully counterweighted job. damage seems to be limited, might get away with a crank grind and a new rod me thinks. mark on the cam is being lined up with mark in the rocker cover?....oh just noticed.........thats a hole in the block yes? :oops:

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:41 pm 
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Hey its Vermin ere, 3cyl's my dad.... home computer is playing up!
About the hole in the block, u can fit ur finger threw it also knocked of a fair bit of counterweight... how safe is it to fit the 8 valve bottom end to the 16 valve top??
Do I need to fit 16 valve pistons or stay wit the 8 vavle??

Any one know the difference in redline??

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 2:29 am 
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Thanks for the reply Joe, got the computer going again(modem problem I think). He bought the sierra under the impression that it was a 8v bottom end with 16v top, obviously not the case. Not sure where to go from here, either fit the 8v, carby and all or new 16v pistons and hope he doesn't over rev it. There's a fair chunk knocked off 1 counterweight as well as bits of piston in the sump...Suggestions?

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 2:41 am 
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is the bore alright?

i would think if a piston is breaking off bits the bore would get relatively farked.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 2:48 am 
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Kinda cool the hole in the block matches the cross section of the rod though eh?

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:48 pm 
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3cyl wrote:
Kinda cool the hole in the block matches the cross section of the rod though eh?


Hehe that's what I was looking at.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:06 pm 
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"mark on the cam is being lined up with mark in the rocker cover?."
On the timing subject the crank timing gear mark is up and the cam timing gear mark is in line with the rocker cover mark (if it was fitted) obviously both no.1 and 4 are T.D.C (well 4 stays there) the dizzy pointer points to no.4 and no.1 valves are rocking ie top of exhaust stroke. Seemed wrong is all.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:24 am 
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Do what the Vdub people do and just weld up the block :lol:

As for tbi 16v heads they are all welded up, Ive never come across one that wasnt.
Its seems the casting was shod and they where all repaired to save money.

Some g16b blocks baleno or vitara crack above the starter.
Seen plenty with glycol or water dribbling out.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 11:37 am 
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joeblow wrote:
Damo wrote:
On a related note, does anyone know any differences between Vit & Baleno 16v heads?

I know the dizzy drive setup is different, not sure about cam profiles or combustion chamber volume though. And I have heard quite a few times that the Baleno heads are supposed to be prone to cracking, in fact, I have one that is cracked and has been repaired. Considering the state of the oil in it though, it's hardly suprising :roll:


pretty much the same head including profiles etc. the swift tbi head is the most common to crack, in fact i'm yet to see one that hasn't (hence why i do a conversion plate from tbi manifold to mpi head). the vit heads (mpi) are very good (later ones even better) and i've only come accross 2 myself out of 50 or so engines, BUT on late model type 2 vits watch out around the welch plug near the starter motor, she might develope a crack. :wink:


must be an echo in here........................

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 3:20 am 
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Pulled the head off this arv, there's marks in the top of no.4 piston where both intake and exhaust valves have hit the piston crown, don't know if this was before or after the rod let go, also shiny marks on the head where the piston has kissed the aluminium of the head. Maybe this was the broken rod thrashing the piston crown off or the rod stretched before it let go? Pics aren't the best.


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Post Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 3:55 am 
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Reckon it'll be safer for now (and cheaper) to fit the 8v motor we already have as I just can't imagine the 16v valves clearing the 8v pistons (thanks for the warning Joe) The 16v bottom end is probably salvageable but at a price!

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