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Tyron
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:12 am Posts: 366
Vehicle: ***
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 Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:08 am |
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http://www.rocky-road.com/bolton-samurai-spoa.htmlAnyone got any experience using one of these. The main reason I'm looking is because it's bolton, so if i do get defected. I can just through the springs back under and put the stockies in. Just would like to know if anyone has used one?
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:00 am |
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no such thing as a well built bolt on SPOA mate... too many things change for it to be totally bolt on and not dodgy in some aspect. Don't bother.
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defibros
Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:00 am Posts: 99 Location: perth
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 Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:04 am |
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zooky08

az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 3426 Location: imbil/gympie. qld
Vehicle: 03 Jimny
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 Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:11 am |
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Whats the reason you want to go spoa
_________________ 03 Jimny 30 km2s 75mm lift f&r locked winch
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BlueSuzy

az supporter
Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 9716 Location: NSW
Vehicle: SJ51 LWB, SJ70 SWB
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 Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:52 am |
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If you go spoa. Weld the mounts and leave your originals. The suspension can still be easily reversed then.
Just make your front flex well, and you can drive everything in WA
_________________ BlueSuzy wrote: I'm over the G16b's.
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Tyron
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:12 am Posts: 366
Vehicle: ***
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 Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:37 pm |
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Just wanted to see if anyone has used it. and for the price i can get it for, works out cheaper than a 2inch susp lift. I'll have a think about it and write a review on how it goes if i do buy it.
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Red89
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 2801 Location: Perth
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 Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 5:16 pm |
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Try pming Hottuna they dont get on here much, they ran the Rockyroad Spoa kit on theirs for a while.
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:33 pm |
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1997 called. They want their suspension back...  Tyron wrote: ... for the price i can get it for, works out cheaper than a 2inch susp lift. I'll have a think about it and write a review on how it goes if i do buy it. It's tempting to think this is just a SPOA vs SPUA debate, but it's not, this is just a rubbish kit, and I don't need to have experience with it to know that. Many many people thought they could build a quick, easy SPOA back in the day and be rocking hektic clearance and flex in a weekend, but history has shown it's a bit more complex than that. Have a really good look at what's included and where you're going to want to add "upgrades" to sort out the little compromises and you're going to quickly realise this "kit" is neither good value or "able to be put back to stock" Firstly, a "Z" link does nothing to correct the significant bumpsteer SPOA cars suffer. You'll need some form of hi steer to get steering back to even stock. Hi steer kits are fairly expensive and won't work when SPUA, so it's one more thing to pull off to put the car back. Z links are hack. Hi steer is really a requirement. This kit includes no shocks. This kit provides no bumpstops. That's why it provides "super flex" - those springs are being over compressed. Spring life is short when they are overcompressed. Fabricating some proper bumpstop extensions (and lands on the U-bolt plates) will be required and whilst that might be achievable as a "bolt on", it's one more thing to sort out. The brake lines included in this kit will not have an ADR approval and will need to be replaced with approved lines. This kit contains no means of controlling axle wrap. Once the rear springs are all whack from being overcompressed, they're going to wrap like a bitch. That's going to kill unis. All up, SPOA is a whole lot of work and $$ to get right. Really. A whole lot. You're messing with most of the critical systems of the car. Most people found it really hard to work all the bugs out. Short spring and uni life are the primary problems, but it's hard to be motivated to sort those bugs out when the car feels spooky off road anyway because of its height. What do you achieve at the end of it? 5" of lift. Are you sure you needed 5" of (suspension) lift in the first place? I'm not sure. I know I don't. Take a step back and work out what you want your car to do and what tyre you want to run. I'm going to suggest neither require 5" of lift, or a half baked spring over to do it. Steve.
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Tyron
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:12 am Posts: 366
Vehicle: ***
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 Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:15 pm |
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Gwagensteve wrote: 1997 called. They want their suspension back...  Tyron wrote: ... for the price i can get it for, works out cheaper than a 2inch susp lift. I'll have a think about it and write a review on how it goes if i do buy it. It's tempting to think this is just a SPOA vs SPUA debate, but it's not, this is just a rubbish kit, and I don't need to have experience with it to know that. Many many people thought they could build a quick, easy SPOA back in the day and be rocking hektic clearance and flex in a weekend, but history has shown it's a bit more complex than that. Have a really good look at what's included and where you're going to want to add "upgrades" to sort out the little compromises and you're going to quickly realise this "kit" is neither good value or "able to be put back to stock" Firstly, a "Z" link does nothing to correct the significant bumpsteer SPOA cars suffer. You'll need some form of hi steer to get steering back to even stock. Hi steer kits are fairly expensive and won't work when SPUA, so it's one more thing to pull off to put the car back. Z links are hack. Hi steer is really a requirement. This kit includes no shocks. This kit provides no bumpstops. That's why it provides "super flex" - those springs are being over compressed. Spring life is short when they are overcompressed. Fabricating some proper bumpstop extensions (and lands on the U-bolt plates) will be required and whilst that might be achievable as a "bolt on", it's one more thing to sort out. The brake lines included in this kit will not have an ADR approval and will need to be replaced with approved lines. This kit contains no means of controlling axle wrap. Once the rear springs are all whack from being overcompressed, they're going to wrap like a bitch. That's going to kill unis. All up, SPOA is a whole lot of work and $$ to get right. Really. A whole lot. You're messing with most of the critical systems of the car. Most people found it really hard to work all the bugs out. Short spring and uni life are the primary problems, but it's hard to be motivated to sort those bugs out when the car feels spooky off road anyway because of its height. What do you achieve at the end of it? 5" of lift. Are you sure you needed 5" of (suspension) lift in the first place? I'm not sure. I know I don't. Take a step back and work out what you want your car to do and what tyre you want to run. I'm going to suggest neither require 5" of lift, or a half baked spring over to do it. Steve. Thanks Steve, that's a lot of things to consider 90 percent of my driving will be road with 10 percent being split between offroad which consists of driving on beach & Mud. Most of the offroad i do never involves flexing. Ths idea is to get the car a decent amount of the ground whilst being able to change it back if i get defected. this is why i dont want to do a chassis extension, moving spring hanger mounts and re welding stuff. It'll be alot harder to convert it back to standard. I'm all open to suggestions, I just wanted to see if anyone has used this kit
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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:21 pm |
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Tyron wrote: Most of the offroad i do never involves flexing. Ths idea is to get the car a decent amount of the ground whilst being able to change it back if i get defected.
Sounds like a 2" suspension lift and 2" body lift would get you what you want. Both are legal ( mod plate required for B/L). Add some 31's, and you can't go wrong. JMO Peter
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:22 pm |
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What's your planned tyre size?
Steve
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Tyron
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:12 am Posts: 366
Vehicle: ***
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 Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:28 pm |
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Thanks Fatty, Problem is, I'll get defected for the tyres anyway. I have some 33's but i'm really starting to think of selling them and just getting 31's Too reduce the amount of work required.
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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:58 pm |
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Tyron wrote: Thanks Fatty, Problem is, I'll get defected for the tyres anyway. I have some 33's but i'm really starting to think of selling them and just getting 31's Too reduce the amount of work required. Yes, the tyres will still earn you a defect. But how much easier will it be to clear said defect, if all you have to do is go home and swap shoes? SPOA is VERY involved to get right, and is not what I would call reversable ( when done properly)
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:01 pm |
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^ This = the truth.
2" BL, 2" Spring, bumpstop spacing, redrill front spring plates, and some guard work will get 33's on. You'd probably be happier with 31's though, long term.
Bear in mind too - there's no way that SPOA kit will fit 33's if you don't heavily limit the "super flex" so guard work, bumpstop spacing etc anyway. Might as well just do the bumpstops guards in the first place rather than that on top of troubleshooting a dodgy SPOA.
Steve.
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