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Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 8:41 am
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Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: MG410 Gypsy

Post Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:33 am 
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Hey guys,

Can anyone recommend a shop that can install a minispool into 1990 wt Sierra rear diff.
It will need a solid spacer.

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Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:18 am
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Location: Avonsleigh, Victoria

Post Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:48 am 
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360 Diff in Bayswater. Not used them myself but have had a few good reports from some customers.
http://www.360gearboxesdiffs.com.au/
Dave

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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:58 am
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Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: LWB Sierra (assembly required)

Post Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:19 am 
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Total Traction, in Moorabbin, has done a lot of work for the Vic Zook Club.

http://www.ttdrivelines.com.au/

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:42 am 
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steve i was refered to them as well by DAZOOK. just booked mine in for Tuesday.

thanks for the fast response guys

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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 11:30 pm
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Location: Dandenong .Vic
Vehicle: 1999 GV. Locked and Lifted

Post Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:28 pm 
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If your not replacing bearings or crush tube its not that hard to do your self.

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Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:30 pm
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Location: gerringong
Vehicle: 89 SWB zuke

Post Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:01 am 
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Hey 4x4, how much did they quote you out of intrest? I got quoted $450 8O so I did it my self.

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:38 am 
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B4T - Im getting a solid spacer put in, and i think the bearings need to be done either way.

Taz - i was quoted $360 and around the 450 mark if it needs bearings.

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:50 am 
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taz.. how long has it been and has the spool help up?

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Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 12:03 am
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Location: Burwood, Victoria
Vehicle: yellow 83 sierra

Post Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:30 pm 
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we do diffs at my work but mainly rebuilding them and there normaly truck diffs

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Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 12:03 am
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Location: Burwood, Victoria
Vehicle: yellow 83 sierra

Post Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:30 pm 
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oh my works down kilsyth

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Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:30 pm
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Location: gerringong
Vehicle: 89 SWB zuke

Post Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 8:59 am 
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I put a chinasong air locker in mine, has only done about 200km of mostly wheeling but as of Monday it’s a daily driver. I used a crushable pinion spacer so apparently that made it "easier" to set the pinion preload, although if I had access to a lathe (to make and trim the solid spacer) I would use a solid one next time. Took me about 8 hrs in total I reckon, but I'm pretty sure I could do it in 4 now.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 6:58 pm 
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tazmanier wrote:
I would use a solid one next time.


Why?

Not once have I needed to make a solid spacer. You have to be very accurate at taking measurements etc. All diffs I have re-built after damage have been due to bearing failure. These failures were due to contamination or old age or numpty pinion angles. A solid spacer won't stop a diff from grenading when a bearing fails. Buy a new colapsable spacer OR add some shimming to the old one. You are supposed to re pre-load a new bearing diff after about 500-1000k's.....a solid spacer will not permit this.


Freakin wives tales.

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Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:30 pm
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:08 pm 
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No the reason I would use a solid one next time (or try it at least, IF I had a lathe) is not the usual "solid spacer=stronger argument" interesting reading http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/crush_sleeve/. It’s because it took a guestimated 350Nm of torque to start the crush sleeve and damn near that run-on torque for the rest of it. (guestimated from me weighing 80kg, almost lifted myself of the ground, say 70kgx9.8/2 (500mm breaker bar)=343Nm) When the bearings start to load up you have no feel for whats happening in there through the breaker bar because you trying to apply (guestimated 200Nm at this stage) to turn the damn nut. So you’re constantly pulling the centre out of whatever tool you’re using to hold it against 350Nm and checking preload. It annoyed the shit outa me, took about 20mins, and still I almost over torqued it (pulled it out and preload had skyrocketed to 3.8 kg [max is 3.4] after many rotations and swearing is settled to 3.3kg) I’m just assuming that every time I had to pull it out to check preload, it would be just as easy to whack a solid spacer back in a lathe which would already be set up, and take some metal off or cut a shim with scissors. Only thing is you would have to pull the oil seal each time without damage, or use the old one temporarily and factor in a bit more preload for the new one.
As I said though I am Assuming having only ever rebuilt this 1 diff centre. I fix airplanes, Joe fixes Suzuki's. listen to him.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:11 pm 
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What exactly are you 'pulling out' to check pre-load?

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Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:30 pm
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Location: gerringong
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Post Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 12:23 am 
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joeblow wrote:
What exactly are you 'pulling out' to check pre-load?


The tool I made to hold the flange while I torqued the pinion nut was a 50x8mm 1000mm length of flat bar that I drilled 3 holes in. One big one to put the socket through and two smaller to bolt to the flange. Every time I tested preload I had to "pull out" the diff (undo two bolts, turn upright and fit fish scales) from bar mounted horizontally in vice. Main thing I'm trying to get at is I don’t think you would need as much torque (I needed to use the big ass vice and breaker bar at work as opposed to doing it at home) for a solid pinion spacer, although a lathe and shim stock are necessary.

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Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 10:30 pm
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Location: Melton Victoria!

Post Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 6:41 am 
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my drive way.....i have a welder!!!! will be cheaper too!

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Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 4:34 pm
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Vehicle: 1990 SWB Vitara

Post Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 7:20 am 
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Sorry to hijack but anyone know someone good in Sydney to install my air locker? Or better yet have the know how and I'll pay them :)

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