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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 3:55 pm 
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Hey Hey AZ, anyone got any pro-tips on removing o2 sensors from a H series V6?

Can easily get to the RHS one & remove it but the LHS looks to be a job for someone with double jointed wrists & elbows.

I think might have enough room to get a spanner on it if i remove the oil filter & the heat shield?

Any suggestions welcome. :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:14 pm 
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How easy is it to remove that section of pipe?

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:18 pm 
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not sure, i'm guessing they've never been touched & will probably be more of a hassle to remove/replace than the o2 sensor... i'm predicting crusty bolts & drama's.

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:27 pm 
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Which is the lesser of two evils tho? Haven't done one but it might be easier to fight with and/or replace exhaust bolts than to do it in situ

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:47 pm 
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Maybe get one of those small Asian women the first bloke talks of.

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:49 pm 
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If you need to remove crusty bolts then a 50:50 mix of ATF and Acetone works better than anything else. Ive been helping a mate work on a 1975 BMW 2002 and its works wonders. Previously I had used WD40 or RP7 but never again. Its sounds like a bit of a drug lab concoction but don't knock it till you've seen it in action.

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:50 pm 
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Acetone is brilliant, it is the best solvent by miles.

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 5:04 pm 
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Scrawn wrote:
Which is the lesser of two evils tho? Haven't done one but it might be easier to fight with and/or replace exhaust bolts than to do it in situ


i think i can get it with the filter removed & taking the heat shield off, hopefully the cam position sensor doesn't have to come off.

jono165 wrote:
If you need to remove crusty bolts then a 50:50 mix of ATF and Acetone works better than anything else. Ive been helping a mate work on a 1975 BMW 2002 and its works wonders. Previously I had used WD40 or RP7 but never again. Its sounds like a bit of a drug lab concoction but don't knock it till you've seen it in action.


i've got both of those ingredients in the garage, will have to remember that concoction & mix some up. 8)





i reckon steaky would have had the answer :(

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 5:48 pm 
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I will have to try that mix sometime, sounds awesome/nasty.

Work out the size of the O2 fitting - then work out what will fit... and buy the appropriate spanner and/or cut it to suit.

This may sound a little weird but when I was doing maintance eng sometimes to get to a cunning bolt etc it was a matter of "relaxing" your hand, then jamming it into the space and then passing the spanner in with your free hand to undo said bolt and sometimes using your free hand to move the spanner to keep undoing etc..

Now I dont do maintence, fk the skinned knuckles, horrible smelling grease, shit breakdowns, unhappy cleaners cos your wrecking their schedual, and "night shift" for anything thats broken when you turn up during the day.... "it was fine when I left it yesterday a 5pm"

I would have said Oxy it up and then undo it...

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 6:00 pm 
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99% of all o2 sensors are a standard size = 22mm

it's not rusted tight in there as the RHS came undone easy, it's just there is no room to swing the spanner with out removing stuff & i kind of want to confirm that removing the filter will give me enough room as i'll time it with an oil change.

FYI the sensor is on the inside of the manifold facing the block at the back near the firewall/bellhousing & i doubt i can get an o2 sensor socket with ratchet onto it.

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 6:43 pm 
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I cannot think of the name, there not "crows foot" spanners but the 5 point kind - like a 6 point with an opening - the one you use on brake lines... may be useful or ratcheting ring spanners may have a place here

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 6:59 pm 
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I did not have to remove anything to change mine. There in not much room but they were easy to undo and once it came loose I just undid it by hand.

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:06 pm 
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I guess I'll have another look at it & man up a bit. :oops:

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:43 pm 
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According to the FSM nothing else needs to be removed. This manual is for an SQ625 but I'm sure its all pretty similar. Sometimes its easier to run down to supercheap and buy a cheap spanner that can be cut/bent to make a special tool.

Image
Image

Manuals are available here as a torrent http://daemon4x4.org/portal/downloads.php?dcid=9

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:52 pm 
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I have no idea on the limited space where you are trying to get the spanner in Gus, but when I'm in trouble I resort to puting a cheap spanner of the right size into the vice and bend it to the desired angle so you can get the end over the nut.
Not sure whether this will work in your case but it has helped me out in the past.
My toolbox now has an assortment of bent spanners of various sizes.

Kev. Armsup Armsup


You beat me to it with the bent spanner trick Jono. :D

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:02 pm 
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yeah i've got a heap of "special" tools i've made over the years & was about to grind down a 11/16th's ringy to turn it into a brake line spanner yesterday to nip up the turbo coolant line on a mates GQ, but i was able to get it by coming in on an angle.

got the SQ manuals & i reckon the SV o2 sensor is a bit further forward than that top pic as it's pretty much underneath the CMP sensor shown in that pic

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