Jezza86 wrote:
put it on resirc and spilt the flow between the face and the feet 4:1, one click clockwise form anticlockwise limit.
use on blower speed 2 for best results. blower speed 3 and 4 push air through so quick it dosent get cold or remove the humidity
Jezza has it right.
I worked as an a/c tech.
Slower fan speeds allow more time for air to be cooled.
Recirc is a must, as you are just cooling the cabin air not trying to cool the hot fresh air from outside.
Heater tap bleed by should be fixed for best performance. Some vehicle don't have a heater tap, just a flap that closes off air flow through the heater core. I haven't worked on a Jimny, so I'm not sure about the setup.
Have a crawl under the dash. Ensure that all of the foam packing, that seals the evaporator box and ducting, is in place.
Most modern cars have pollen filters in the a/c ducting, like a paper air filter, that can get blocked and reduce efficiency.
A/c has either a thermostat, a variable resister like a volume nob, or a thermistor.
Thermostat can be adjusted to achieve lower temp by turning the nob (when you find it)
A thermistor is a small sensor that is jammed into the fins of the evaporator. It's position in the evap dictates how cool your a/c will get.
Disassembly of the evap box is required. (Not rocket science, just be careful)
Running a/c too cool can cause evap to ice up and you loose cool air until the ice melts.
Test a/c by putting a thermometer in the vent. Fan speed one, recirc, driving. (Air flow over condenser)
You should see at least 15c lower than outside air temp.
Modern systems run r134a gas (greenhouse friendly) but does not get a cool as r12 in the old systems (pre '93 ish)