|
How-to guide on replacing diffs found on another forum:
> PLEASE READ FIRST:
> Know exactly what you are getting yourself into BEFORE
> doing this modification. The higher ratio gears will
> make you rocket off the line with the stock size
> tires, however your RPMs will also be a bit higher
> than "usual" at speeds of 65MPH or more.
>
> Just to give you an idea of how the RPMS will be:
> Although my speedometer says 85MPH, I'm actually doing
> (roughly) 77MPH. My RPM gauge is definitely correct,
> so at that speed, it stands around 4000 rpms. It does
> give a whole new meaning to 4th and 5th gears!
>
> WARNING: If you are going to do this, make sure you do
> BOTH the front and the rear gears at the same time. If
> you do the rear first, and you're coming home drunk
> one day and accidentally engage the 4X4. Well, guess
> what? You'll be leaving your drivetrain behind you on
> the floor, and you'll break every damn component from
> the front all the way to the back. You have to have
> the same gear ratios installed in the front AND
> back!!!!!!
>
> Although these upgraded gears are necessary if you
> have a lift with larger size tires, if you install
> them on your stock vehicle, you'll have successfully
> turned it into a Street Screamer.
>
> If you've read this far, good. Here's the type of
> vehicle you absolutely need to get the different parts
> from:
>
> 1996, 1997, or 1998 1.6L JAPAN-MADE Suzuki SideKick
> (read: not CAMI built), with manual transmission.
> Canadian Trackers and any SideKick with the 1.8 & 2.0
> Liter motors will NOT work.
>
> You can tell it's Jap made because the VIN # ALWAYS
> starts with JS.
>
> For the rear, take the entire 3rd member. It's the
> same 12-bolt carrier that is in the GV, except it has
> a ABS tone ring (ours is on the outer bearing
> retainer), and the housing has some unneeded mounting
> bosses. If the Kick doesn't have ABS, don't worry, as
> the GV is 4-ch ABS and uses tone rings on the axles,
> not the carrier.
>
> For the front, grab the entire 3rd member (INCLUDING
> bracket, nuts and bolts), the driver's side inner axle
> shaft, the passenger side CV shaft, and the manual
> hubs. Considering everything will be on the same donor
> truck, getting in one shot would be the most
> practical, and will get you your best price.
>
> And now, without further ado....
>
> INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS - REAR
>
> Please keep in mind. All these instructions are
> assuming that you are somewhat mechanically inclined
> and are familiar with different terms. Also, the use
> of power tools and a lift makes things a whole lot
> easier!
>
> We'll start off with the Rear b/c not only will it
> "pop your cherry", but it will make the most
> difference b/c our vehicles are RWD.
>
> Things you need BEFORE HAND:
> The rear pig (duh!)
> At least 2 quarts of 80W90 differential oil
> Big ass sledgehammer
> Razor Blade
> RTV Sealer
>
> Again, let me emphasize, having a lift and using air
> power tools will definitely make the job much much
> easier:
>
> 1. Drain the differential oil from the pumpkin.
> 2. Pull the wheels.
> 3. Using the 12MM wrench/socket, pull the 4 bolts on
> the back of the brake mounting disc thing...this holds
> the bearing cup to the axle.
> 4. Put one wheel back on, and thread like 3 lug nuts.
> 5. Take the big ass sledgehammer and stand under the
> car. Hit the living bad out of the tire from the
> inside out, until, like magic, the axle comes loose.
> Note, this step is a pain in the ass, and you have to
> hit the tire HARD from the inside (so imagine standing
> underneath in the middle of the car slamming the
> hammer against the inside part of the tire). Wouldn't
> hurt to disconnect or loosen the brake lines so that
> you have more room to slide out the axle. Once it
> gives, slide it out 3-4" the most. Do this for both
> sides.
> 6. With the axles out, unbolt the driveshaft from the
> back.
> 7. Unbolt the 8-10 bolts on the housing to loosen and
> remove the pumpkin.
> 8. Using the blade, clean off the sealer from the
> surface where the pumpkin was removed from.
> 9. Installation is the reverse of removal! Don't
> forget to add Differential oil back in and check that
> the ABS Sensors didn't become loose!
>
> Just remember to bleed the brakes if you loosened them
> (might want to add some brake fluid). ALSO, REMEMBER
> NOT TO ENGAGE YOU 4X4 IF YOU HAVEN'T INSTALLED YOUR
> FRONT GEARS YET!!!!! You'll destroy your car if you
> do!
>
> INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS - FRONT
> The front will take more time, but is straight
> forward.
>
> Things you need BEFORE HAND:
> The front differential (duh!) AND BRACKET, INCLUDING
> ALL NUTS and BOLTS
> At least 2 quarts of 80W90 differential oil
> Razor Blade
> RTV Sealer
> CV Boot Clamps
> Passenger side inner axle seal - SGP Part #:
> 09286-64001-000 (this is for preventative maintenance.
> They are prone to wear out and leak.)
> The inner axle shaft
> The CV shaft
> and the manual hubs
> (the last 3 parts are to eliminate the bad-on-the-fly
> design. This reduces the rolling friction, thereby
> making the wheels spin more freely b/c of no
> resistance, hence more speed!!)
>
> First, the Driver side:
> 1. Drain the front axle assembly. (Don't forget to
> refill at the end!)
> 2. Disconnect the air line and diff breather.
> 3. Unbolt the driver's side CV at the flange.
> 4. Unbolt the diff mounts.
> 5. Remove the 4 bolts from the driveshaft and use a
> bungie to hold the driveshaft up and out of the way
> (do not pull it out of the t-case)
> 6. Now, I save some time by wiggling the assembly down
> and pulling the driver's side CV stub out (it should
> just pull out). This saves the step of removeing the
> hubs and pulling the CV shafts out, but it's a little
> more tricky, requiring an extra set of hands.
> 7. Once it's out and on the bench, use a dead blow (or
> rubber mallet) and knock out the inner shaft by
> hitting the flange.
> 8. Unbolt the diff and remove.
> 9. Clean the surface of the new diff and where it will
> be installed (there will be gunk there from the
> previous diff.)
> 10. Install the new Kick 5.13 pig and bolt down (Make
> sure to use fresh RTV sealer.)
> 11. Install the Kick inner shaft, hitting with a dead
> blow until fully seated. (If you compare the shafts,
> you will notice the size difference, with the GV being
> longer.)
>
> Now, the Passenger side:
> Compare the two CV stubs. Notice that the GV is
> shorter than the Kick. The difference in the two side
> lengths is because the airdiff moves the centerline
> over about 1" towards the passenger side. The
> passenger side is a floating stub, and the shorter it
> is, the weaker it is. YOU ARE MAKING THE FRONT END
> STRONGER!
>
> What you want to do here is swap the Kick stub onto
> the longer GV mid-shaft and outer CV.
> 1. Carefully cut the band around the CV boot.
> 2. Remove the GV's stub/ CV cup and replace it with
> the stub/cup off the Kick, making a "hybrid" CV shaft.
> Use the new clamps on the boot.
> 3. This would be a good time to replace the passenger
> side inner axle seal. The Driver's side doesn't have
> the same problem, as it has a bearing supported inner
> shaft.
>
> With that done, re-install everything back into your
> GV. The front 3rd member has a center mount. This
> mounts to the GV crossmember. I find it easiest to
> remove the two bolts from underneath the crossmember,
> leaning the center mount on the diff, and using the
> bracket from the sidekick differential. IMPORTANT: The
> GV bracket will NOT work. Make sure you have the nuts
> and bolts from the sidekick bracket. If not, Home
> Depot has them. I think the size is 5/8" X 2.5"
> (you'll need 2).
>
> 4. Now the hubs. This is REALLY tricky. Ready? a)
> Remove bolts from existing lock-out caps on the hub.
> b) Making sure the hub is in the "open" position,
> install hubs with bolts and tighten to spec.
>
> 5. Finally, stick a golf tee into the rubber
> differential breather hose so it can build pressure
> and make the 4WD light come on. Also, plug the metal
> air line. You can use a small piece of rubber hose
> with another golf tee at the end.
>
> Done!! If you want 4wd, just lock the hubs and put it
> in 4wd. With hubs locked, you can shift on the fly,
> just like the GV does now. And to prevent dirty
> fingers, pick up a plastic hub turner.
>
> Happy riding!
|
