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Post Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 11:07 pm 
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Yep. Spacers now gone, looks much flatter under there now. Full droop:
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Post Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 6:04 pm 
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Ur cv length is wrong
If u r breaking iners something is not right
U should never break a inner as they domt get any where near the angle the outer gets
I have 16mm spacer weldedon my lhs axel and my new right stub made to suit and run 1.6 cvs still
How much longer is the 2lcv

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:48 pm 
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It would be shit, but i have an awesome solution to solve all these front driveline issues which would not only get the suspension working better with some mods, but also make the car lighter!!!!

2wd racer. Would be suitable for a few events but would struggle in quite a few as well. Even as a road car taking it on the beach would suck if you get bogged.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 5:26 pm 
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Well dropped my std kyb struts off at the suspension man. They are tough as nails the body is literally 10mm thick steel. They are getting the guts cut out of them, acid dipped, camber adjustable, koni adjustable insert measured and installed inside and coated. Ended up going a bit shorter than i wanted due to the insert lenghts but has roughly 8-9inch of travel at 80mm longer than std. Hopefully late next week i can fit them and see how we go. YAY

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 5:40 pm 
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pics n price when done please 8)

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 5:48 pm 
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Will do mate. Will do a full report. I have had a chat to the guy making them and he's ready for demand hahah. Only problem is u need to supply your own strut and finding original ones isnt as easy as u would think.

Apparently they are made out of the thickest material.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:20 pm 
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Picked them up this arvo. Stung me a bit more than what was first said!! Will get pics tomorrow in the light and hopefully get them fitted and drive on them this weekend. They look good, alot of money for the limited amount of work involved. Would definately make them myself next time. See how they hold up.

Ended up costing $325 each. Koni oil filled insert. Have 8inch of travel and are fully adjustable. Can remove and replace the inserts so i can muck around with lenghts etc.

Will be getting a coat of hammertone as the black paint is average on them atm.


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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:43 pm 
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fark, thats a bit rich... they'd want to be twice as good as OME or dobinson for that sort of coin.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:46 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
fark, thats a bit rich... they'd want to be twice as good as OME or dobinson for that sort of coin.


Yeh, with the adjustable feature it should give me some more tuning room but that and the extra 30-40mm of length over ome and dobinson is really all it has going for it. And they are fully rebuildable so they should last a loooooong time. And now i have a strut body i can play around with different inserts including the inverted monotube bilsteins from the states haha. I guess when u look at it that way they are worth it.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:48 pm 
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So what did they do
do u need the stock struts or is it prety much a emty pipe with plates welded to it now
what is the extended and compressed length

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:53 pm 
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got_bar_work wrote:
So what did they do
do u need the stock struts or is it prety much a emty pipe with plates welded to it now
what is the extended and compressed length


Mate i wouldnt hesitate to make a completely custom one if you have the skills. Having the existing strut body would be alot easier.

All he would have done, cut the top off the strut, empty the guts out.
Choose the insert in diameter and lenght (can cut inserts down if too long)
Attach a pipe on top of strut with an internal thread
Acid clean everything and paint
Insert strut at required open length
Screw locking coller on and bobs your uncle.

The inserts cost roughly 350 i think. So 300 bucks labour to do that......Bit rich.

Sorry extended lenght to bottom of thread from top bolt hole centre is 490mm (Ome is 455 i think)
Compressed is 290mm

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:11 pm 
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Pageing mr fat this sounds something u could do for the masses
These with new front arms hilux cv
Adjustable lowers and a arm
Best lift kit for vits ever

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:14 pm 
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got_bar_work wrote:
Pageing mr fat this sounds something u could do for the masses
These with new front arms hilux cv
Adjustable lowers and a arm
Best lift kit for vits ever


I hope you have more repore with him than i do hahah. I have put this to him but he is either very busy or doesnt like me hahaha. No replys from mr fat, i really hope he is busy finishing his own projects.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:15 pm 
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I am confident i can do it all, just need to find a lathe big enough to put the internal thread on the peice of pipe welded to the top of the strut for the locking nut to thread on to. The rest is piss

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:22 pm 
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bigrig91 wrote:
got_bar_work wrote:
Pageing mr fat this sounds something u could do for the masses
These with new front arms hilux cv
Adjustable lowers and a arm
Best lift kit for vits ever


I hope you have more repore with him than i do hahah. I have put this to him but he is either very busy or doesnt like me hahaha. No replys from mr fat, i really hope he is busy finishing his own projects.


:rofl: Fatzook finish one of his own projects... you're kidding right? :thefinger:

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:25 pm 
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So all that is needed is a pipe with internal thread and some plates welded on and the rest is off the shelf screw in Items r they
I got a mate with a water cutter and cnc mill and cnc lathe in his shed that never gets used. If i can get a drawing i might be able to get some nocked up Cheap
We can adjust the hole to adjust camber

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:36 pm 
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got_bar_work wrote:
So all that is needed is a pipe with internal thread and some plates welded on and the rest is off the shelf screw in Items r they
I got a mate with a water cutter and cnc mill and cnc lathe in his shed that never gets used. If i can get a drawing i might be able to get some nocked up Cheap
We can adjust the hole to adjust camber


Basically yeh. Might be easier to start with standard strut and elongate the hole like i have. Other wise a bit of pipe, an insert of your choice and about 3 hours of fab time. If we can rally fatzook up i am more than happy to take mine over and show him and pull them apart! I have one apart now to paint it.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:02 am 
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Me and Mr fat talked about doing this after I put bilstien inserts into daily drive. The inserts are pretty easy to install

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:17 am 
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Also is the koni are like the bilstien ones in my ss then its pretty much cut empty oil out and weld on a collar that fits over the strut and weld that on then just screw the locking collar up and your done I got quoted similar money at the time to fit the inserts but read up and gave it a go propably a hour in time all up

I'll be talking to fatzook hopefully today if he will pick the phone up I'll talk to him about it agin

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:09 pm 
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Just so everyone knows, i had a chance this weekend to put these struts in and give them a good test.

Very happy with the outcome. Havent adjusted them or anything yet but they seem pretty spot on.

The lenght is perfect for a 2 inch lift, have equal amounts of up and downtravel.

Although more expensive then other struts at roughly 300 per strut (with your existing strut), i feel that the adjustabliity and the fact that u can put any insert into the housing makes it worth it. Being able to create ur own lengths as well is ideal. The konis i put in are fully rebuildable so i will let everyone know how they hold up.

If you need any info about these or lenghts etc pm me and i will try and help u out. Basically u just need to measure your full droop and full compression and find an insert to suit.


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Post Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:15 pm 
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got any spy pics of the mods done to the top of the tube to take the insert?

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:28 pm 
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Nah was to lazy to take it apart when i painted it haha. Buuut, its a piece of tube with an internal thread welded to the strut housing. The locking nut has a thread on the outside of it that screws into the inside of the pipe.

Make it yourself for 50 bucks and buy the strut inserts off ebay. They are 450 a pair on there. My guy sold them to me for 350 so saved a bit there. He also set up the compression dampning to suit.


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Post Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:42 pm 
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You also might have to disassemble the strut insert and cut/shorten the body of it to suit the vitara strut housing. The lenght of the pipe welded on top of the housing will determine this.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 4:19 pm 
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These are the struts that i pulled out. Are they ultima shit boxes?? They measure 450 from top hole to thread.


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Post Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:03 pm 
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U don't know what the strut insert is that u got

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 9:08 am 
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Will the ones with the bolt in the bottom work . That way u don't need to make the top screw on bit

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 1:44 pm 
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bigrig91 wrote:
Yeh mate technically it will be identical although for a better ride you might want to change damping etc. I can get a new gv strut that would need minor mods and the lengths are 515mm open and 265mm. Would say i would need to limit droop as this would bind and pop cvs etc. Good option though.


What struts are these. Ive measured standard NVG strut, called Iron man and OME and got open and closed lengths but noting come close to the numbers here.

My numbers:
Standard NVG = 200mm travel (600 open, 400 closed+
IRON MAN = 225 travel (607 open, 382 closed)
OME = 215mm gravel (610 open, 395 closed


515 open 265 closed gives you 250mm travel on a much shorter open length..... Please what are these off i want some.

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