[jonno_racing]

ok guys what is every one using for caster corection? snake do overpriced arms, there are bushings for corection off flebay quite cheep. whats peoples opinions?

[Gwagensteve]

Doubling plate the front radius arm mounts on the axle and redrill the holes to roll the diff back. That's what I did on the coiler I did a heap of work on years ago.

Or cut the mounts off the axle and reweld the axle rolled back.

Caster correction bushes are a bad idea. They hurt the already dodgy front end behaviour by increasing roll stiffness. , and AFAIK they are all urethane, making the problems even worse.

Adding a stronger arm might not even be a great idea in any case - the load released by flex/bending of the arm will be transferred into the axle housing, brackets and chassis mounts.

I'd rather replace an arm than reweld a broken chassis bracket.

I think the real problem with bending the sierra arms isn't that the arms are too weak, but rather with added lift they are on a bad angle - the force of striking an obstacle is transferred straight back up the arm rather than into the springs and bumpstops. The real fix is a longer arm at a flatter angle, with the caster angle set properly for the required ride height.

Steve.

[ZookiMonsta]

I'm with steve on this, don't make stronger arms, stick with the stock ones with rubber bushes and reweld the diff mounts
with the diff rolled back. When you start getting half decent flex, you will find yourself snapping drivers side rear arms... when this happens encase the arm with flat
steel, without welding to it. This allows the arm to flex but not flex enough to snap. Oh and get rid of the useless polly bushes!

[jonno_racing]

i am feeling like re drilling perches and plateing.... i need to mesure what my caster is now and what it needs to be tho...

[jonno_racing]

rubber castor corection busshes

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/apio/1009_1/

[milkhunter]

How do you translate it?

[milkhunter]

Don't worry, found it in your other post in Chat

[Trojan]

Go with castor correction plates welded on. You get the added benefit of strengthening the axle housing mounts at the same time.

DO NOT roll the axle housing to much. The amount you can roll it is limited by the tie rod. Roll the housing to much and the tie rod will hit the radius arm on full flex, more so when the steering is at full lock. Take a measurement of when the vehicle is stationary with the wheels pointing forward, then go flex it up at full steering lock and redo the measurement, you'll quickly see what i am talking about and how much you can actually go.

[ZookiMonsta]

x2... You'd only have to roll it back 3 or 4 degrees.

[Fatzook]

ZookiMonsta wrote:

x2... You'd only have to roll it back 3 or 4 degrees.

Don't forget that rolling the diff will also put more stress on the strut mounts on the diff, and the towers, both of which already suck.

Ideally a castor corrected replacement arm, and laminated OEM mounts would be the best solution IMO.

But bushes will work, though they have a tendancy to fail a little sooner than non-offset bushes.

[ZookiMonsta]

Fatzook wrote:

ZookiMonsta wrote:

x2... You'd only have to roll it back 3 or 4 degrees.

Don't forget that rolling the diff will also put more stress on the strut mounts on the diff, and the towers, both of which already suck.

Ideally a castor corrected replacement arm, and laminated OEM mounts would be the best solution IMO.

But bushes will work, though they have a tendancy to fail a little sooner than non-offset bushes.

I wouldn't think it would put more stress on the strut mounts. Lifting the car, diffs rolls up putting stress on
the mounts, if you're rolling the diff back to the stock position there should be no extra stress.

Also sounds like a new kit TSOR will be releasing?

[Fatzook]

ZookiMonsta wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

ZookiMonsta wrote:

x2... You'd only have to roll it back 3 or 4 degrees.

Don't forget that rolling the diff will also put more stress on the strut mounts on the diff, and the towers, both of which already suck.

Ideally a castor corrected replacement arm, and laminated OEM mounts would be the best solution IMO.

But bushes will work, though they have a tendancy to fail a little sooner than non-offset bushes.

I wouldn't think it would put more stress on the strut mounts. Lifting the car, diffs rolls up putting stress on
the mounts, if you're rolling the diff back to the stock position there should be no extra stress.

Also sounds like a new kit TSOR will be releasing?

Yeah but without lengthening the arms to account for the extra height, the wheelbase is reduced, which offsets the lower and upper mounting points for the strut. No idea how much, but the coily front end needs less problems, not more

Yep. New year. But thats not why I suggested it. There is a massive difference in price between offset bushes, and complete new arms.

[ZookiMonsta]

Fatzook wrote:

ZookiMonsta wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

ZookiMonsta wrote:

x2... You'd only have to roll it back 3 or 4 degrees.

Don't forget that rolling the diff will also put more stress on the strut mounts on the diff, and the towers, both of which already suck.

Ideally a castor corrected replacement arm, and laminated OEM mounts would be the best solution IMO.

But bushes will work, though they have a tendancy to fail a little sooner than non-offset bushes.

I wouldn't think it would put more stress on the strut mounts. Lifting the car, diffs rolls up putting stress on
the mounts, if you're rolling the diff back to the stock position there should be no extra stress.

Also sounds like a new kit TSOR will be releasing?

Yeah but without lengthening the arms to account for the extra height, the wheelbase is reduced, which offsets the lower and upper mounting points for the strut. No idea how much, but the coily front end needs less problems, not more

Yep. New year. But thats not why I suggested it. There is a massive difference in price between offset bushes, and complete new arms.

Yeah and both are too overpriced.

[Fatzook]

ZookiMonsta wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

ZookiMonsta wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

ZookiMonsta wrote:

x2... You'd only have to roll it back 3 or 4 degrees.

Don't forget that rolling the diff will also put more stress on the strut mounts on the diff, and the towers, both of which already suck.

Ideally a castor corrected replacement arm, and laminated OEM mounts would be the best solution IMO.

But bushes will work, though they have a tendancy to fail a little sooner than non-offset bushes.

I wouldn't think it would put more stress on the strut mounts. Lifting the car, diffs rolls up putting stress on
the mounts, if you're rolling the diff back to the stock position there should be no extra stress.

Also sounds like a new kit TSOR will be releasing?

Yeah but without lengthening the arms to account for the extra height, the wheelbase is reduced, which offsets the lower and upper mounting points for the strut. No idea how much, but the coily front end needs less problems, not more

Yep. New year. But thats not why I suggested it. There is a massive difference in price between offset bushes, and complete new arms.

Yeah and both are too overpriced.

Both what?

Bushes or arms?

[ZookiMonsta]

Fatzook wrote:

ZookiMonsta wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

ZookiMonsta wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

ZookiMonsta wrote:

x2... You'd only have to roll it back 3 or 4 degrees.

Don't forget that rolling the diff will also put more stress on the strut mounts on the diff, and the towers, both of which already suck.

Ideally a castor corrected replacement arm, and laminated OEM mounts would be the best solution IMO.

But bushes will work, though they have a tendancy to fail a little sooner than non-offset bushes.

I wouldn't think it would put more stress on the strut mounts. Lifting the car, diffs rolls up putting stress on
the mounts, if you're rolling the diff back to the stock position there should be no extra stress.

Also sounds like a new kit TSOR will be releasing?

Yeah but without lengthening the arms to account for the extra height, the wheelbase is reduced, which offsets the lower and upper mounting points for the strut. No idea how much, but the coily front end needs less problems, not more

Yep. New year. But thats not why I suggested it. There is a massive difference in price between offset bushes, and complete new arms.

Yeah and both are too overpriced.

Both what?


Both bushes and arms
Bushes or arms?

[Fatzook]

Well the bushes I can't comment on. But the arms? You get what you pay for. If you are refering to snake racing etc, then its definately a bit rich. I'm not really aware of any others on the market yet

[Trojan]

Fatzook wrote:

Don't forget that rolling the diff will also put more stress on the strut mounts on the diff, and the towers, both of which already suck.

Perfect oppurtunity to modify them also and make them stronger.

Cut them off the housing, move them forward slightly and rotate them 90 degrees, so the mounting bolt runs front to back, not side to side.
Helps free the movement up in the lower strut mount when flexing.

[jonno_racing]

im waiting to here back from the jap sight about the rubber corection busshings. i am not that keen on welding caster plates in, as basicly every part of my car can be returnd to stock.

[coily96]

Rubber correction bushes would be good, if someone did find some i know i would be keen for a set.

[djed]

hey did you ever hear back about the rubber castor correction bushes from Japan?

[DiscoS]

They're available from an Australian Ebay person:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Radius-Arm-C ... 4d2070c908

[Gwagensteve]

disco, its far cheaper and quicker to put your stock speings back in the car and take it for a drive. if your still
unhappy with the tracking, at least you'll knownit wasnt the caster causing it.

Ive driven coil sierras taller than yours and with rubbish tyres and it tracked ok- certainly wasnt undrivable. we did improve it by rolling the diff, but it had a full 50mm of lift and was a hardtop with a body lift.