[benjamin181991]

What have people done when installing a Weber with a manual choke? Do you just plug the existing water lines for the old carby choke?

[Bammo]

Not a Weber but a Corolla 4K in my case. I just inserted a bolt shaft and used a hose clamp to seal off the hot water lines.

[benjamin181991]

Would connecting the two hoses with a brass fitting work?

[HarryHoudini]

I must be missing the point,you just run a hose from the outlet on the manifold to the inlet,bypassing the Carb.

[bumstein]

I’ll get a pic of mine when I get the chance but yes it’s just running a hose from the output to input that would otherwise run to/from the choke

[benjamin181991]

Yep perfect just making sure. Thanks!

[Bammo]

HarryHoudini wrote:

I must be missing the point,you just run a hose from the outlet on the manifold to the inlet,bypassing the Carb.

The point would be that the approach of jamming a bolt into the two open ends of the hose cost $0 and took about 30 seconds

[HarryHoudini]

Bammo wrote:

HarryHoudini wrote:

I must be missing the point,you just run a hose from the outlet on the manifold to the inlet,bypassing the Carb.

The point would be that the approach of jamming a bolt into the two open ends of the hose cost $0 and took about 30 seconds

Mate,i'm missing the point with your post as well unless your a complete Moron.

[Bammo]

HarryHoudini wrote:

Bammo wrote:

HarryHoudini wrote:

I must be missing the point,you just run a hose from the outlet on the manifold to the inlet,bypassing the Carb.

The point would be that the approach of jamming a bolt into the two open ends of the hose cost $0 and took about 30 seconds

Mate,i'm missing the point with your post as well unless your a complete Moron.

Gee - settle down sunshine. You get out of bed on the wrong side or something? Assuming you were just having a bad day and aren't actually trying to pick a fight I will explain the reasoning:

If you want to bypass the system altogether then the neatest way to do this is to run a new bit of hose from the manifold to the inlet as you described. You need to disconnect both ends of both hoses to do this and replace them with a new single hose as the old hoses cannot be reused. The approach I suggested was quicker since you leave the hoses attached and simply join them together with the shaft of an old bolt. Reuses the old hose clamps and is quicker to implement and costs nothing. Obviously the old bolt simply blocks both hoses and hence no water flow.

[HarryHoudini]

Bammo wrote:

If you want to bypass the system altogether then the neatest way to do this is to run a new bit of hose from the manifold to the inlet as you described. You need to disconnect both ends of both hoses to do this and replace them with a new single hose as the old hoses cannot be reused. The approach I suggested was quicker since you leave the hoses attached and simply join them together with the shaft of an old bolt. Reuses the old hose clamps and is quicker to implement and costs nothing. Obviously the old bolt simply blocks both hoses and hence no water flow.

Ok,thanks for the measured response but you don't ram steel bolts into hoses unless its an emergency repair.

[Gwagensteve]

Whilst it’s not my idea of neat work, what’s so bad about it? Not everyone is able to weld a cap over a barb, or pull a barb out and tap a thread to install a plug.

Bolts work quite well as plugs on rubber hoses as the thread helps retain the bolt.

[HarryHoudini]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Whilst it’s not my idea of neat work, what’s so bad about it? Not everyone is able to weld a cap over a barb, or pull a barb out and tap a thread to install a plug.

Bolts work quite well as plugs on rubber hoses as the thread helps retain the bolt.

The less steel in the cooling system of a full alloy motor the better and a hose connection returns the water flow as the original design called for.
I can't believe people on here would suggest dodgy solutions to a simple problem.

[Gwagensteve]

I can’t believe people would get their knickers in a twist about blocking a redundant hose or the surface area of a 10mm bolt when there’s plenty of steel wetted by coolant in a Sierra cooling system.

Looping the hose back on itself might appeal to you but accusing people who use a different solution of being “dodgy” is pretty harsh. Can you explain the importance of flow in that hose such that blanking it is detrimental?

[HarryHoudini]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I can’t believe people would get their knickers in a twist about blocking a redundant hose or the surface area of a 10mm bolt when there’s plenty of steel wetted by coolant in a Sierra cooling system.

Looping the hose back on itself might appeal to you but accusing people who use a different solution of being “dodgy” is pretty harsh. Can you explain the importance of flow in that hose such that blanking it is detrimental?

Cripes,i hope the box you guys sit on when driving the Zook is made of strong wood.
My attitude is the result of reading rubbishing/misleading replies that have manifested themselves in this Forum over the last couple of years,normally i don't care if the OP is silly enough to take the advice offered but when shoving a bolt in two hoses and interrupting the designed water flow is considered good/helpful advice then this Forum is doomed.

I know your a regular here and have helped a lot of people but you should be setting an eg.

[Gwagensteve]

I am setting an example. My example is understand why you are doing something and the consequences of what you’re doing, so I’ll hold you to the same account as I’ll hold anyone else, thank you very much.

You have presented two reasons why blocking these hoses is bad. Both reasons aren’t very compelling to me.

You can choose to add weight to your assertion by explaining why blocking the coolant lines to the carb is detrimental to the engine. “Because the factory did it” isn’t sufficient, because after all, the factory decided the carb needed coolant flow and the replacement carb doesn’t have this provision, so it’s not about “the factory” any more.

I can see your offended at the idea of using a cut down bolt. But the justification for why using a cut down bolt is bad isn’t related to the use of a bolt at all.

And don’t make me calculate the surface area of all the steel in a Sierra cooling system and compare it to the surface area of the end of an 10mm bolt X2

[HarryHoudini]

I've said my piece,any off-road vehicle should be as professionally prepared as possible,anyone giving advice to the contrary is a fool.

...and while i'm at those members on here promoting the NZ Power Steering kit for Sierra's should make it clear to Newbies on here,often Teenage kids,that Insurance Co.'s will not pay out in the event of an accident,and,according to a Grafton wrecker who refused to sell me the kit off a wreck a few years back,even if they have an Engineering certificate,its not legal to Register in NSW,other States,i don't know.
Advice on this kit could ruin a kids life if he hits another car(s) with no Insurance.

Edit..just did a quick Google...

The less steel in an all Alloy Motor the better,esp. in the Cooling System,plenty of Info. out there.
..."Although we think of aluminium as being 'non-rusting', corrosion can actually be a big problem in aluminium blocks. One reason for this is that contact between aluminium and steel can cause galvanic corrosion which is a particular problem when you have things like cylinder liners and studs which have to be made from steel."

https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/que ... ron-engine

[Gwagensteve]

Easy there tiger. Before you make unsubstantiated (and inaccurate)claims implicating a quality product based on something a wrecker told you once, let’s keep this thread on topic.

Please answer my questions.

[MrRocky]

My experience offroad is the more its "professionally modded" the less reliable it becomes.
Sometimes the simplest fixes are the best offroad, ive seen sierras with bolts plugging hoses ect... that have had 30+ years of dirtwork and the simple fixes still holding strong.

[Bammo]

I hear you MrRocky! Once did an emergency fix of a hole in a fuel tank with a paste made from Sunshine Milk Powder. A year later went to get the hole professionally fixed and the mechanic was dumbfounded at how well the patch had held! Mind you that was in an old Valiant and not a modern fancy car.

I think Steve has addressed the rantings of that other member quite adequately so I won't respond directly to him except to remind readers that *my* vehicle is a farm gun buggy and not a daily driver. Hence a bolt bypass is perfectly acceptable for me. If it was my daily driver then I would go bypass the hose properly as well. Also - I used the shaft of the long bolt not the thread... easiest solution is usually the best!