[carasee]

G`day all, my name is robert i live on the sunshine coast qld, and now for my first question, i have m13a engine is there any engine mods that can be done to improve hp,bigger injectors, cams, ecu etc. thanks in advance.

cheers robert.

[Scrawny]

Welcome Rob!

If you really want to get keen, do cams, port & polish and extractors. I'm not sure what the injectors will flow but I'm sure they'll be fine for what you want.

[jimbo_jones]

welcome mate what zook do ya drive

[zukenutter]

M13A I'll assume he drives a Jimny.
That or a Sierra with an engine swap.

I think that extractors, sport exhaust and a K&N air filter would be a good starting point. I tried a pod filter recently which definitely added a bit of pep around town but created a flat spot in the acceleration at highway speeds.

I enquired about some Suzuki Swift injector mods once but was told it wouldn't suit by the supplier. Can't remember the reason they gave.

[just_cruizin]

I'm voting Jimny, the M13a is a bitch to transplant apparently. Fatzook was doing one I think.

[Reubs]

zukenutter wrote:

a K&N air filter

Don't bother with K&N. Go with Unifilter, and definitely don't go for a "pod" setup on any 4x4 unless your car is just for show. You will find out why the first time you have to spend 4 hours cleaning one or when the cotton gauze starts to get a bit thin.

Have fun modding your Zuk. For a smidgen more power, I reckon just running 98RON fuel and keeping the maintenance up will make the same difference as a filter and exhaust.

[parfittron]

If you havent noticed it inside the fuel filler.. Its actually required in the M13A to run 95+ octane. You will notice why suzuki recommends it if you ever run without it ( I have when it hasn't been available ) as the car will be very gutless.

[steak_knife]

parfittron wrote:

If you havent noticed it inside the fuel filler.. Its actually required in the M13A to run 95+ octane. You will notice why suzuki recommends it if you ever run without it ( I have when it hasn't been available ) as the car will be very gutless.

X2, 98 is even better.

Put a M18a out of a liana in it, cost about the same as a rebuild with cam`s...

[zukenutter]

Reubs wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

a K&N air filter

Don't bother with K&N. Go with Unifilter, and definitely don't go for a "pod" setup on any 4x4 unless your car is just for show.

Hi reubs what reasons do you prefer UNI over K&N. Just wondering.

As Reubs says, pod is definitely for street only. But is fun.

[carasee]

Hi all, sorry it`s an 04 jimny

[Reubs]

zukenutter wrote:

Hi reubs what reasons do you prefer UNI over K&N. Just wondering.

I have 2 coilies Sierras. My silver daily driver has a Unifilter My Bro did about 100,000km on the unifilter before I bought the car. My white one that was in Tough Tracks has a K&N and I have done about 40,000 with a K&N filter in it.

Construction:
A Sierra Unifilter is made from a removable 2 thick layers of different density foam, wrapped around a steel mesh frame. The seals between filter and air box are made from the same foam as the filter.

A Sierra K&N filter is made from permanently attached 4 thin layers of cotton gauze, held between fine steel mesh molded into a plastic frame. The airbox/filter seals are a pair of moulded ribs in the plastic frame.

Cleaning:
Unifilter takes about 5 minutes to clean with ordinary turpentine, and re-oiling is done with generic (you can buy genuine if you wish) air filter oil.
You can squeeze the dirt and turpentine out of it like a sponge. This is very quick.

K&N takes about 5 hours (1/2 hour working, 4 1/2 hours waiting). First 20 minutes of cleaning with (CAN ONLY USE GENUINE) K&N cleaner and LOW pressure water, then it needs to dry completely before oiling, otherwise the water will repel the oil. This takes 4+ hours even when left in the sun. Then oiling with (CAN ONLY USE GENUINE) K&N oil requires even spraying over the pleats in the guaze. Filter needs to be left for 10 minutes at each application of oil to ensure it works into the cotton. This process needs to be repeated until there is an even "red" application of oil.

Performance:
Unifilter - you will notice even when the outside is covered in dirt, the dirt hardly makes it to the outside of the inner layer of the heavier density foam. It seals itself in the air box via the foam seals very well.

K&N - The cheap seals are useless if your airbox doesn't close properly, and the oil on the inside of the filter still manages to trap dirt to the filters insides. Does this mean some grit gets through the filter?

Cost:
A Sierra Unifilter is $65, and is cheap to service.
A Sierra K&N filter is $110 and I get about 2 1/2 services from a $29 (repco price) recharge kit.

Verdict:
IMO, A Unifilter is better at filtering, more ruggedly constructed, easier to clean, and cheaper to buy and service.

Also, the K&N 1 Million Mile guarantee is void if the filter is used "off-road". In that case it is 12 months only. K&N's main marketing point is no good for the off-road industry IMO.

[2stroker]

Very good write up Ruebs, leaves you in no dought which one to buy. Another point from me, Uni filter have a fitment for LJ50, K&N do not.

[zukenutter]

Great info there Ruebs, thanks. I have always used K&N and have heard mixed feelings with both products over the years. Think I'll try UNI next time.

I have not had the sealing issue but my air boxes have always been in good condition. Interesting point about the K&N guarantee. I've found the life of the K&N very good but haven't done 1,000,000kms on one LOL.

[Scrawny]

I still prefer paper filters over re-usable ones. I can understand if you drive in dusty environments a lot then a washable one would be easy to clean but the paper ones still filter better.

[zukenutter]

Have started a poll in Tech Chat