[Brett]

31zook wrote:

As this is a bit of a test print for AZ's big merging topics, im not really sure how to go about it, so bear with me. hints/tips welcome, wingers deleted.

A few FAQ's
Rear Up Front
Flat rear sierra springs with drilled rear spring mounts and 50mm longer shackles will equal lift springs in the rear.
Chassis extentions with stock rear springs and stock shackles will not give you any lift.
full ruf moves the diff forward 25mm?
mini ruf is extended shackles and drilled hanger mounts
Carry springs can also be used and are 2 inch's shorter then sierra rears.
For a full ruff with stock steering box, 50mm bump stop spacers are needed to stop steering links from touching

this is a good topic starter, it outlines the mechanics of a RUF (rear up front) and most to all the questions about it are answered in it.
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... hlight=ruf
Gwagensteve has posted a good ruf write up on OL, if anyone has saved that then chuck it up here as OL links are long gawn

ruf with lux shock towers
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... c&start=30
A ruf isn't hard to work out, so there is shock, shackle, angle, spring, and loads more information in these links, but if for any reason you have more questions then post em here.

hi people i'm doing a ruf right now to fit 31's with out a body lift, not finshed but thought i'd put up some pics.

i haven't redrilled any mounts yet. i wanted it alltogeher so i could work out how much i have to move the diff back to clear the steering arms so i can have to diif as far forward as i can.

the shackels are made out of 50mm c channel 18cm long with bolt holes 14cm apart, bolts are 7.5x 1/2 inch.

had to take the overload spring out and found that the spirng pin is to long for 3 springs and had to pull the old one fron the front springs.

i still have to redrill the rear mount, brace the shackels, longer brake lines, vr/vs commodore shocks, cut the front side bumper hangers off, tap some of the guards in and 25 mm bumpstop ext. then should be right to go.

[Bruce]

Did ya get the bushes mate?

[Damo]

That ride height looks the goods! Have you done any other trimming yet?

My springs must be giving me about 2" lift I reckon, it looks a fair bit higher than that.

Go the lowriders!!!

[Damo]

Just a note about the spring pin bolts too.

If you have one that's too long it's easy enough to cut down, I use those 1.0mm thin cutting blades in the 4" grinder, easy. Now to be able to get the nut back on you have to grind a chamfer on the end. I usually just hold the bolt by hand and rotate it against a grinding disc in the 4" grinder. A bench grinder would be even easier. You could thread a nut onto it first so that when you cut & grind the bolt and screw the nut back off it cleans up the thread, but I haven't needed to do it.

Another way you can go is to make new bolts. I think they'd 12mm but you might want to check that, memory is a little sketchy and 12 sounds a little bit, they're probably 10mm. Anyway, get some new bolts the right length, you can get high tensile bolts in small packets at Supercheap for a few bucks. Then I chuck it up in my drill press and turn it on, grinding down the head with a grinder til it's the right size.

[Zook_Fan]

will it drop a bit when you move the mount?

[Brett]

bruce i got the bushes and they are in the front. i'll put the rears in when i do the rear.

damo the rear spring pin didn't have enough thread to tighten up the springs other than that they are the same size. i haven't done any triming at all yet.

zook fan i don't think it will settle down very much at all. should match the 2" rears i'm putting in.

[Zook_Fan]

when the mount is move backwards the shackle will just go more horizontal wont it?

[Brett]

if i move the re drill the rear mount hole back yes but won't be much. if i redrill the spring pin hole forward the shackel angle wont change.

[basketcase]

That looks fawkin awsome. Good shackle angle.

Does the tyre hit on the outer bullbar mount or does the bumpstop extension prevent that?

Have you thought about merc arms or other high steer instead of redrilling mounts to fix the steering?

[Rockhopper]

basketcase wrote:

That looks fawkin awsome. Good shackle angle.

So is that shackle angle ok?? I'm no suspension expert, but have just done a bodylift, ome's in the rear and put the old rears up front, exactly the same way as brett has done, yesterday. Everything looks great, and the shackle angle is the same as Bretts and was wondering if that was good. The diff has moved forward enough to not need to restyle the inner gaurds with a hammer which is what I was trying to achieve. All I need now is longer brake lines, and I've either got to put bigger bumpstops in or relocate the shock mounts as I'm using the vr commodore/ Hilux shock combination

[Built4thrashing]

cut the top shock mounts off and make up some new ones. RUF is great but you will never get full travel out of it unless you move the upper shock mount

[Brett]

basketcase i'll have to chop the outer bull bar mount off no matter what so i'm moving the diff back abit so i don't need to do more work with the steering. next one i do(i'm selling this car when i'm finished this) i'll put a cressida power steering box in on a plate so i don't have to move the diff back.

rockhopper,i think the shackel angle is good, not to strate to make it a harsh ride and will give some nice drop when flexed. if you do the 25mm bumpstop ext you will have lots of shock for drop of the diff. if you go and move the shock mounts you will need a longer shock and one that is valved right. i don't know of any off the top of my head. if it was spoa i would move the shock mount as you bolt the shock to the top of the leaf not under the it.

[Bruce]

Don't mean to change subject but here are some pictures of Casper at LMCP today. RUF when ya get it right (in our minds anyway)

[Brett]

looks good, i like that little ext shackel mount. got any close up shots of it?

[Bruce]

They are LJ shackle mounts turned the other way. hummmmmm Think I have some shots of them close up when we did it. I'll go look mate

[Brett]

where am i going to find lj mounts! i'm flat out finding a lwb

[Bruce]

Found

[Rockhopper]

Got mine finished today and went for a run around the block. Got home and checked the front end and found the front wheels were really close to my front bumper, the front end had dropped, and if the shackles were the hour hands of a clock, they were pointing at 3 o clock when looking at them from the drivers side. They were hard up against where the mount. Has anybody had this problem before, and what do I do to fix it??
Anyway, am going to redrill the spring mount back 25mm and see if that helps.

[Brett]

how long are the shackels your using? re drill the back spring mount will help.

[Damo]

Rockhopper wrote:

Anyway, am going to redrill the spring mount back 25mm and see if that helps.

That's definitly going to help.

[Brett]

no i need to get some brake lines made up. does any one know how much longer, i can't remember and don't have any thing to ramp it with. 4inchs longer pops into my head but not sure.

[Brett]

got the ext brake lines today, just went 4 inchs longer.

got a flex shot today. not to happy, might open up some spring clamps if its no better after the bump stops are in.

[Zook_Fan]

how much the lines set you back?

[_noddy]

why do yous put ruf for does it give you more flex because my front springs have more flex .

[Zook_Fan]

yes but when the rears are put up the front, because they are a longer spring, give lift better ride and they do flex more

[_noddy]

so if i put my rear springs out a aother sierra in my sierras front i will have more flex if i do that and pull a the bottem leaf out will that make it fles more to.

[Mike]

you'll need longer springs for the back and you need to take they load leaf off and replace it with the bottom leaf out of your old fronts

[Mike]

were the 4inch longer brake lines long enough? at full flex do they have any slack in them still?

[BlueSuzy]

Mine were fine at 4"/100mm longer, with ruf they still had heaps of line left in them, But not too long so they get tangled.

[Brett]

the lines cost me $90 for both, bit steep but got them done right away. they have enough in them so i have some slack left when at full lock.

noddy the longer springs flex about 2" more at the bump stop than front springs and are heaps smoother. i still have to pull the sway bar out and do bumpstops. bump stops force the other side dowm when crossed up, in the pics its still about 50mm off the bump stops.

when its all done i'll get put up the distance between the bump stop so people can see the change