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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:17 am 
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been trying to get this conversion done for the past six months it's all in and all wiring connected well i think anyway :?. every time i turn it over im not getting any fuel squirting out of the injector.

1. i have fuel pressure to the injector.
2. changed out injectors thinking the first one was blocked
3. and even changed out the ecu thinking it might of been stuffed.

im thinking it's got somthing to do with the electrical side of things but im all out of ideas.

any help would be great.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:06 am 
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Easy way to check is to disconnect the start wire from the stater motor.

Then turn the key from off to the on position. Fuel pump should run for a second or so and then stop.

Then turn the key round to start. The fuel pump should then run continuously for as long as you hold the key on.

If either of these two things doesn't happen you have a problem with your wiring.

Ben

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:06 am 
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injector resistor? a little silver box on mine that i forgot to plug in....
is it a 1600block with 1600tbi?
timing? does anything come out of the injector?

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:28 am 
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yer resistor is pluged in. and fuel pump works when keys is turned to on.

nothing is coming out of the injector. could it have somthing to do with the ecu at all? all out of ideas thinking about cutting the whole thing away. it starting to annoy me.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:42 am 
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CAS?

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:02 am 
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Does the fuel pump come on when you turn the key to start as well? You will need the starter unplugged to hear this.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:06 am 
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yer runs when key is on start as well. i double checked this by bypassing the realy and wiring straight to power and still no fuel.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:07 am 
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Blocked fuel line? Has happened before undo the fuel rail bung at the radiator end on the fuel rail and hit the key to see if fuel comes out. Or u wouldent have the pump wired up back to front they only go one way

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:11 am 
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na not that either have fuel to the injector and plenty of pressure.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:12 am 
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also check the distributer you might have to modify it so it can read the signal one of the guys from outers showed me how to do this but it was a long time ago i think he goes by the name mart cheers Tuls

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:02 pm 
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Have you hooked up the brown wire to the tacho? If you have, make sure that you have cut the old wire in the sierra loom and attached the end from the tacho to the Vitara brown wire, not spliced the Vitara wire into the Sierra brown wire.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:58 pm 
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The TPS can do it too, there is an unflood mode these ECM;s go into that stops the injector from adding any fuel until it detects it is no longer flooded.

let me see if I can find the page Here it is I put the quote and link below. So if your TPS is stuffed, and the ECM see it as WOT, it will not fire the injector. What year is your ECM(S), or the two you have tried?

Also, do you have the noise sensor hooked up, and the tach lead to the ECM?

This site is like the Suzuki 1.6 injection bible., the guy is good, and explains things very well. don;t be shy about using the Google search on his page. he has added stuff over the years and its kind of disorganized.


Quote:
SUPER SECRET UNFLOOD MODE : (in op. guide, but is lost , right?)
Pressing the Gas Pedal (accelerator) to the floor boards, activates , secret ? Unflood mode of ECU and helps greatly. " CUTS FUEL WHILE CRANKING"
Unflood, mode, causes the ECU to stop all fuel injections, while cranking. ( but spark continues, as normal)


Link to kick fix fueling page.

http://kick-fix.com/flooding.html

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:37 am 
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31zook wrote:
CAS?


Crank angle sensor?

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:35 am 
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Is it 16 valve TBI or 8 valve TBI?

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 2:03 am 
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Is the computer throwing any codes?

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 2:21 am 
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16valve.

Could be the CAS. I'm trying to run the 1.3 dizzy if that helps. Is there something I'm missing with the dizzy that I'm meant to be doing?

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 4:38 am 
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yeah there is a dizzy mod no one talks about..... you will need to remove the little box that 4 wires meet up at inside of the dizzy, and melt them together to make just a straight feed for the ecu.........

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:00 am 
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Its the dizzy , remove the extra part , you are not getting the signal from the dizzy to fire injector , should read about 150 ohms , Cheers Paul.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:52 am 
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MART wrote:
Its the dizzy , remove the extra part , you are not getting the signal from the dizzy to fire injector , should read about 150 ohms , Cheers Paul.


so what i have to do is remove the extra part from the 1.6 dizzy and connect it to the 1.3 dizzy and should get signal? is that right? allways thought the extra box was there to retard or advance the timeing.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:56 am 
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bails wrote:
16valve.

Could be the CAS. I'm trying to run the 1.3 dizzy if that helps. Is there something I'm missing with the dizzy that I'm meant to be doing?


the tbi runs an external igniter. just using the 1.3 dizzy will not work.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:11 am 
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joeblow wrote:
bails wrote:
16valve.

Could be the CAS. I'm trying to run the 1.3 dizzy if that helps. Is there something I'm missing with the dizzy that I'm meant to be doing?


the tbi runs an external igniter. just using the 1.3 dizzy will not work.


ok can i use the 1.3 dizzy at all? kinda a little bit lost with this all at the moment. :oops:

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:34 pm 
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bails sent mart a quick pm and see if he can talk you through the mod pauls got a lot of know how with this stuff cheers tuls

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:39 pm 
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so to see if your on the right track, plug the swift dizzy back in, earth the dizzy body to the engine block. ignition on and rotate swift dizzy by hand and see if the injector is working..

from what mart is saying, i'll have a guess and say that the ecu only wants to see what the pulse generator is producing, not what the ignition module is turning it into. bypass the ignition module to feed the pulse generator signal to the ecu..

mind you i havn't looked inside a carby zook dizzy for years so i might be talking out my hat : )

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 7:22 am 
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Grabbed these pic for you night, remove the black box closest to your fire wall
Black-white (looks brown in photo)
yellow-red
Imageand set the points to swift spec

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:30 am 
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cheers for that makes alot more sense when seen on a photo. thought that was what you where trying to say in pervious post but wasn't quiet sure will give it a go soon i will let you all know how i go.

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 10:01 am 
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crap, 1.3 dizzy don't have points i just remembered, it's the other one......

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 10:09 am 
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dose it matter where it is located around the dizzy? or can it be in any position.

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 10:18 am 
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bails wrote:
dose it matter where it is located around the dizzy? or can it be in any position.


Can be in any location provided the reluctor gap stays super small. The location determines your overall ignition timing so you will have to set the dizzy up afterwards anyway

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 11:15 am 
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well got the dizzy sorted today but still no fuel. notice the loose brown wire for the tacho. what do i need to do with this now as the sierra dosen't have a tahometre?

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 5:28 am 
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Bails , here is the TBI section out of workshop manual plus wiring diagram , zoom in to get clearer picture. Also you are right , brown wire goes to tacho , but should not affect the fuel in TBI , check you have connected everything correctly , also gives individual part diagnostics , see how you go , I,m still looking at the other wire in PM , Cheers Paul.

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