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Post Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 7:08 pm 
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trying to set every thing up for my 4 link in my truggy. i dont have much knowledge about it.
i have been on this calculator for 3 weeks now trying to get what i think is right by my understanding .
so far i came up with this. am i on the right track at all.

uppers are 600mm
lowers are 800mm
about 10" vertical separation at the diff

any help would be appreciated
Image

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 7:58 pm 
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Looks good to me.

Add some adjustablility into the upper link mounts and that should cover your ass.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:23 pm 
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are your uppers 600 eye to eye??
my uppers were made to i forget what measurement exactly but im sure i aimed for 3/4 the lowers which are 800 and with how much angle they had on them the were rather short in terms of where they pivoted from at the front mount.
i also stuffed up and had fark all seperation at the chassis end either so it was a squat and torque twist monster. When i cut my chassis and changed it to fix my seperation problem i also snuck i think 100mm into my uppers. It looked a hole lot better and just seemed right but im not smart and ive never used a calculator lol hence why i changed my setup.SILLY IDEA LOL

all i know is that with the short upper my diff rolled a bit.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:25 pm 
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you want both links to meet up the front about a foot infront of the crank pulley they say

mine first time round met underneat my seat lol,was a i need it driving rush job that really bit me hard later on

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:58 am 
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Yes eye to eye. This is for the rear appsie not the front. My uppers are 3/4 of my lowers.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 6:12 am 
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Have a look for the petersons wheeling write up they did. I used the rules that stated for my 3-link, and Monley (I'm pretty sure) used it for the 4-link in the rear of his LWB.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:15 am 
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zooky08 wrote:
This is for the rear appsie not the front..

In your side on view, where the upper and lower lines would come to a point should be in front of the crank/harmonic balancer depending on who you ask.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:31 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
zooky08 wrote:
This is for the rear appsie not the front..

In your side on view, where the upper and lower lines would come to a point should be in front of the crank/harmonic balancer depending on who you ask.

like this Image

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:34 am 
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yep .

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 10:24 am 
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Sorry appsie miss understood you. Well the links meet way beyond the crank for sure.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 4:03 pm 
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you want the dot about where the front of the motor is.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:27 pm 
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all good,was just passing on what people told me. mine still comes up short but not by much.

some people say just infront of engine at a minimum. depends on alot of variations though. i say just build it and drive it lol

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:36 pm 
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im sure the calculators will stop stuffups like i made in guessing lol but i guess the main thing is what looks good on paper may not work or fit in real life

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:49 pm 
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Dont forget to check your squat with full movement on another tab

My uppers are 600, lowers 800

All similar dimensions but my lowers are more triangulated. Helps keep the wear off the top middle bushes on the diff as they will all get similar movement. Seen this on a mates 70'cruiser.

Another option is A arm

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 6:24 pm 
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same lengths as me timmay.
my lowers angle in a bit. from as wide as i could get them on a IFS rear housing to inline with chassis.forget how many degrees it was.

mine used to unload the front like crazy,still does now cos of the shitty little foxies but it used to be terrible before i cut and changed it

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 6:31 pm 
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Trying to get more triangulation in my lowers now. What woukd happen if i move the lower link mount into the middle more at the frame.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 6:48 pm 
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dont stress too much. how much are on the uppers?

you see quite a few rigs end up on a cross member well and truly inside the chassis rails

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:44 pm 
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zooky08 wrote:
Trying to get more triangulation in my lowers now. What woukd happen if i move the lower link mount into the middle more at the frame.


Have a play with the dimensions on the calc


I had to go back and forth so many times, chassis on stand, all things off, fuel lines, diffs on stands at heights etc. Just need to work out where the tailshaft will run compared to mounts also. I worked out zorst later

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:46 am 
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petty much all mounts are out side the chassis. so dont have a problem there.
going to go with what i have now if it needs changing later then i will.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 1:13 pm 
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looks like it will be fine mate. aslong as you got plenty of angle on your uppers(45 degrees plus) it will be sweet,i just done lowers a bit to help and cos i could


so whats ya plan up front mate?? room for 4 link or 3 link with panhard like most zookies

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 1:21 pm 
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Was thinking 4 link up front but will have short uppers because the extractors are in the way were i would like to run my links.
So might do a 3 link with panhard.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 3:13 pm 
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doesnt need to have the hugest links in the world to work well.
my 4link front will have fairly short links compared to most.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 4:32 pm 
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I could only get between 400 -500mm top ones. Ill sus it out when it comes to the front.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 4:34 pm 
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Thats plenty!

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:54 pm 
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just be careful with super short uppers but again i think you will be right. I forget what my upper (3 link front ) is but think its low 500s

rhetts car is a car that proves short links can work well.it twists up nice but then again i guess mine does too considering. If i had my time again i would of snuck a 4 link in the front,even if it meant turboing to get more room

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 10:10 pm 
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You have to be fairly creative with the exhaust but mines a 4 link front and only using the stock exhaust manifold.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:39 am 
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I can get a upper link mount just aside the extractors, on the bottom of the chassis. So i think itll be okay.
Will eventually see when i move to the front.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:16 pm 
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My new truggy runs an A frame in the front but I'm using an lj chassis which is an even tighter fit with the g16 but my upper links fix to the outside of my chassis rails and the exhaust runs on the inner side

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:53 pm 
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troopy wrote:
My new truggy runs an A frame in the front but I'm using an lj chassis which is an even tighter fit with the g16 but my upper links fix to the outside of my chassis rails and the exhaust runs on the inner side

How much clearance between top links and the chassis at full compressed?

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:47 pm 
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At full compression there is only 15mm clearance but that is sitting very low with the bonnet at the height as the 38's

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