[Pubic]

some more.......

[Pubic]

more again

[Mike]

wow thats a pretty sweet looking body lift
looks good so far be good to see it finished

[Pubic]

when you gotta lift you gotta lift!!!

i will be bracing the brackets with more 4mm steel. all i think i will need to do is gusset the tube from the plate to the steel.

i know where your coming from mike... but you juct cant rush perfection

[Mike]

Pubic wrote:

i know where your coming from mike... but you juct cant rush perfection

amen to that

[Pubic]

does anyone see anything that i have missed that will cause problems. or is there any advice anyone wants to give???


any advice worth giving atleast.

[steve]

is this mount just solid rubber?

if it breaks will the engine fall out?

[steve]

and because the engine is below the mounts, would that put a lot of pressure on the bolts on the engine end of the mounts and the engine might be trying to spread the mounts apart, opposite to the stock standard design?

[Pubic]

the block sits near vertical. so it has shear stresses applying to the bolts vertically.

the brackets being on an angle are trying to compress that rubber when dormant so i dont think (hope) they will have much stress on them. they will be in tension with acceleration due to the engine "torquing" up, creating the twist and therefore pulling on one mount.

the drivers mount is only stretched at the moment because the plate that has been welded to the chassis mount is not in the corrrect position.

if they do break hopefully the angle of the bracket will keep it up.

[steve]

If you check out the standard Sierra Engine Mount (the rubber and steel block that holds it) you can see how the rubber is also supported by the steel casing so if the rubber breaks the steel casing will hold the engine. The steel casing also supports the engine and helps the rubber. If you remove the steel casing you will break the rubbers pretty fast.

On a completely separate issue, this is a ugly drawing i did to explain what i mean about the pressure on the brackets and bolts attached to the motor. This may not be an issue at all, i'm not an engineer. I'm just guessing and throwing some ideas around.

[royce]

I think the pics make it look low, I would be interested to see what height the crank is compared to stock

and the shape of the mounts wont impact the pressure on the mounts, it may give different loadings on the welsds though

[joeblow]

why not something like this. uses suspension bushes, easy to line up and most of the load is on the nice half inch bolt.

[Pubic]

steve those drawings do make more sense now.

i do understand what your saying. the block plates are no lower than 100mm below the chassis mounts. but if i do come across any dramas i can weld chassis mounts below the chassis instead of on top.

joe, thats an interesting concept. i may adapt something similar for my transfer case.

i think my welds will hold up to the torture. majority of welds will be tig welded at 120-140 amps. plenty strong. the brackets will be gusseted, i think that too will help a fair bit.

for thos of you who are curious i will take some photos of crank height. are there any other photos you would like to see?

[Pubic]

updates....

motor has benn CORRECTLY alligned, mounts have been finished.

the passenger side had to be re done.... (forgot to fit the starter when mocking it up) but now all good. im going to pull the shell off on the weekend so i can weld on my rear gearbox mount, and make my exhaust.

the exhaust will be from the head to tail. starting at 32 dia out of the head 4-2-1 extractors (would it be more advantageous to go 4-1??) extractors finishing up as 2", then cat and muffler.



hilux diffs wont be used anylonger. instead i will be using my wt with chromo's and airlockers. I decided i just wanted it on the road and the lux diffs would take much longer to get the job done.


what ratio diff centres would people recomend on running with 35's?

did i read correctly that some vitara centres fit and have a shorter ratio?

i'd like to hear peoples ideas on combo's etc. diff/transfer combo.

cheers

joel

[dank]

Hey pubic hows it going man, good to see some action on the zook. Mine is at about the same stage as yours with the 20v. My engine is sitting pretty much in the same location. I have a mate cut and flipping my sump and I also did some cool stuff with my thermostat housing on the back of the block to make it fit under the dizzy, should be a tight fit but all good. got my jackshaft made up too...pretty short but should do the job with a 50mm tranny lift with a solid bolt through mount. Good luck with the rest of it.

Also with the passenger mount don't use that cluster of bolts, use the ones in front of the chassis mount and make the plate to suit. that way the starter is no issue.

[Pubic]

gday dank.

good to hear your making progress too mate.

i made the new bracket to bolt to the front ones. i gotta upload some new photos.

i'll be flipping my sump too eventually.

feel free to post some pics in here mate.

i'll be moving my t/case back a little to help with the driveshaft angles which will make the jack shaft a little better.

[Pubic]

a little more progress....

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... 3371#43371

and here

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=3226

[Pubic]

the fuel tank is now sitting in place by its mounts..

its kinda erotic welding next to a fuel tank in a kinky sort of way....

i just chopped up the old fuel tank mounts and welded them in new places.

next on the list is the jack shaft... i need to do a little farking around to go from the larger uni of the auto gearbox to that of the transfer case.

i was thinking of modifying the flange on the transfer case to suit the other end of the auto driveshaft i have.....

mainly because its a little bigger with bigger uni's.

to do this i was going to machine off the existing flange and weld on a new machined flange to suit the the new uni....


any ideas are always welcome.

[royce]

Put a Vitara engine in it, have I mentioned that yet

can you cut and shut the bigger uni onto the sierra jackshaft?

[TZAR]

here is a pic of engine mounts for a 4ag that was done by brewskibuilt.

[BlueSuzy]

Come on Mr Pubic. Get her on the road

Let me know when i can supervise again.

[Pubic]

the jack shaft idea is an ok idea royce i will look more into it..might be able to machine a groove into the back of the uni and sit the tube in and then weld a nice fillet on it.

thanks tzar, ive see nthat idea before, im after something that wont vibrate as much.... but who knows... i may need to go back to that in te future.

tim, you can come round any time sir.... plenty of dust you can sweep up for me that is if your not too busy out wheeling...... seriously who would want to be out driving when you could be at home wishing you were

[steve]

so how's it going pubic?, i've lost track of this.

[Pubic]

at the moment mate, its sitting on the rear lux diffs with the 35's atattched

the fuel tank is mounted, im going to rip the front diff out next week.....

i need to use the lux diff for the front so the offset will clear the auto box.


so that will go in, im going to go ruf while everything is easy to work on... probably do a chassi extension to.... more research needed on that....


but on the bright side i bought a pedestal drill yesterday... 16sp 3\4 hp.


the new tyre diff combo has given me an extra 100mm of clearance under the diff pumpkin and i have 12=30mm of clearance between the tank and top of pumpkin, thats with no body on though.... i expect it to drop a bit when the body is put back on.

[steve]

i though ya weren't doing hilux diffs anymore? Maybe i got that wrong. or was that the motor?

yer you'll have fun with the diffs, especiially the front ..juggling the diff pumpkin/engine sump / steering box / steering.

It might be easier if you have more lift. Mine is as low as you can get and i had a nightmare with all that and is still not perfect, but i guess it will never be.

[Pubic]

i was going to start with the lux... and then i wante to keep the light zooks... but the chromo axles and cv's and lockers etc was goin gto add up to $2000 per diff.....

i would still need to buy a high steer kit as well.....

so i went back to the lux diffs, they have lock rites front and rear, already has a hi steer set up, and are stronger for the money they have cost me.
the front diff is offset further to the driver side too which helps miss the auto box's wide sump.


i want to eventually go an airlocker for the front, but time will tell.

as for the sump on the motor,i will do a cut and shut on that with my handy new tig welder.....i might even just make a new one from stainless!!!

i worked out i will be about 9" higher than stock..... its a bit of a freaky thought but i keep telling myself that the extra weight of the diffs and the 300mm wider track will help keep it stuck to the ground.


here's hoping anyway.

[BlueSuzy]

Stainless Sump

[Pubic]

perhaps i shoudl practice on a spare baleno one if anyone happened to have one lying around..... ^^ if it turns out i would be quite happy to hand it over to them as a thank you for borrowing their's.....

2mm thick should be strong enough i'd say! did i hear someone say mirror polish too???

[BlueSuzy]

spares that were cut and leftovers were thrown...Goooone!

[Pubic]

well, maybe its time we went for a cruise to pick and payless to find one.