[Gwagensteve]

Yeah, but notice the front is flexing fully even on that angle. That's the awesomeness of RUF.

Whincup - Just pull the swaybar. If you don't like it on the road, put it back on.

I bet you don't.

Steve.

[303zuke]

ajsr wrote:

flex is over rated get lockers and go places.

See, the Tree-Hugging Greens really are Red!

[whincup]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Yeah, but notice the front is flexing fully even on that angle. That's the awesomeness of RUF.

Whincup - Just pull the swaybar. If you don't like it on the road, put it back on.

I bet you don't.

Steve.

...what you mean by that? bet i wont like it, or put it back in?

[Gwagensteve]

I bet you never put the swaybar back on the car.

Steve.

[chris_mac]

whincup wrote:

actually, on topic of RUF... is it possible to do one without welding/drilling the spring perches? every post ive read talks about doing either one of those...

you can buy bolt on kit for RUF which requires only holes to be drilled. However you will need rear springs, and longer shocks. That's what I did and am happy about the results.

[whincup]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I bet you never put the swaybar back on the car.

Steve.

from what ive read, il have to agree :p

chris_mac wrote:

you can buy bolt on kit for RUF which requires only holes to be drilled. However you will need rear springs, and longer shocks. That's what I did and am happy about the results.

whereabouts you buy them from?

[neilss]

chris_mac wrote:

whincup wrote:

actually, on topic of RUF... is it possible to do one without welding/drilling the spring perches? every post ive read talks about doing either one of those...

you can buy bolt on kit for RUF which requires only holes to be drilled. However you will need rear springs, and longer shocks. That's what I did and am happy about the results.

Where did you buy that kit from and how hard was it to install ? how long did it take to install. cheers

[shep]

low range have the bolt on jobbies.

[chris_mac]

I know some people here did plates by themselves. I got it from rocky road.
it take probably half a day to install it, you need to remove old springs, and install rear ones using diff relocating plates. you drill 4 holes for each spring hanger for two additional bolts. You probably need to redrill standard 12mm hole with slightly bigger imperial so you can get through a 3rd bolt (yanks supply everything in imperial sizes). you end up having a plate bolted on the each side of spring hanger using three bolts. you also get new poly bushes for that end of the spring (hard to get them in, i used vice to press them in). you install plates, and that's it.
kit moves spring and diff quite a bit rearwards so when installing the spring you use diff relocating plates. you end up having diff moved forward about 3/4 inch from standard position. that makes the spring centre being moved forward about 30mm. I though it would be an issue with flex, and spring being prone to bend, but its ok. If you don't use the diff relocating plates you need to redrill springs centre pin hole otherwise you end up having the diff moved backwards about 1/2 inch, and you don't want that.
you can use standard shackles, but I made 1/2 inch longer ones (for front and rear) giving me better shackle angle. You need to remember that that lifts your front about 1/2 inch but at the spring hanger side, not shackle side. i have SPOA and when I used new OME rears on all corners front was sitting about inch higher, so I use old OME flatt rear ones to level out the car insead of longer shackle at the rear. I'm happy with the results, heaps more flex, but you need longer shocks, possibly longer brake lines etc.