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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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 Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 6:18 am |
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Gwagensteve wrote: Buy a soft top body and cut it down. There are major structural differences between the soft top and hard top bodies. You can't cut one into the other, you'll have a floppy mess.
The 1" body lift is so you can lift the transfer case up to make the underside of the car flat.
Steve. Thanks steve! i guess i am gonna do that - to chop the soft top SWB... i saw a picture of CJ sierra uploaded by you.. can you please tell me how you built it? the suspenssion looks awsome, the steering..did you move the PS box? the flat belly and the 1" BL idea i got from that picture....
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 6:25 am |
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Yes, that car has a chassis extension and the steering box moved forward.
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:18 pm |
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Gwagensteve wrote: Yes, that car has a chassis extension and the steering box moved forward. ohhh so i guess there are also much longer leafs in front?
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:40 pm |
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 1:35 am |
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Gwagensteve wrote: No, just rear OME. WOW...thats a great flex... and what you put in the rear?
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 2:31 pm |
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The rear was running an OME rear pack with a custom main and secondary leaf 250mm longer than standard. The rear shackle hanger was moved rearwards to accommodate the spring length, and these springs extended the wheelbase by approximately 125mm. Whilst this setup provides excellent travel these springs are unproven. I expect axle wrap would be a big issue with springs this long and soft.
Steve.
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 4:34 pm |
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Thanks steve...
indeed i think axle wrap would be a problem there.
what do you say about Hilux front for the rear of the SJ410K? will it be better than the CJ's because they are longer and will increase the wheelbase even more...
i worry that they won't flex so much...
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 4:39 pm |
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Don't worry about the back. Chasing rear flex does little to assist in capability and the rear will always have more roll stiffness than the front, so the front will always flex before the rear.
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 5:58 pm |
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Gwagensteve wrote: Don't worry about the back. Chasing rear flex does little to assist in capability and the rear will always have more roll stiffness than the front, so the front will always flex before the rear. ok... can you please expand and explain what you wrote here? why is that exsactly? and what is your opinion on wheel base? is 100" better than 98"? and what about 105"? shall i get the softer CJ leafs with less wheelbase extension or shall i go for the long Lux leafs which are more stiff and extending the wheel base?
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MrRocky
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4731 Location: perth
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 9:41 pm |
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Its very difficult to blend flex, load carrying, comfort and handling into a leaf sprung setup. I think you are over thinking it, concentrate on stability and the areas you need the susp to perform the most. Chasing bundles of flex will have you unhappy in all other areas
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 9:55 pm |
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 8:32 am |
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The Youtube clip of the rock terrain reinforces my point. In that terrain, you want the front of the car to flex well. You want the rear of the car to follow the terrain closely. If the rear is too soft and flexible, when a front wheel drives up onto a rock, the whole car will follow and flop over - because the front is climbing and lightly loaded, all the flex will come from the rear. This puts the car on big angles and makes it feel untrustworthy.
The rear springs are set wider apart than the fronts. This creates higher roll stiffness even if the spring rates are very similar front to rear. This is good for stability.
Don't concern yourself too much with the rear, just make sure the spring rate is correct and the springs are working through their full range. Lots of lift springs on the rear of sierras won't let the axle reach the bumpstop.
As for wheelbase, that will depend on tyre size. 100 works well for me at a 35" tyre and 16" of belly clearance, but I have a body lift and reinforced / cut sills, so my sill clearance is quite high. (25") 98 would also be fine like this. On a 32" tyre, (so that's 1.5" less belly clearance) I think I'd be happier at 92-95"
I think 105" would be too long unless you were up around 37" tyres.
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 7:07 pm |
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Thanks again steve!
96.5" wheel base i can get with front cj leafs in the rear!
how do i get the flex i want from the front? RUF with OME? EFS?
will it be enough?
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 7:11 pm |
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RUF with whatever springs you want/can get. It will be fine.
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 5:04 pm |
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roger that!
OME worth the extra 200$ above the EFS?
and about steering....i read the post in the Pirates that you participated in about the Merc steering arms. i thought that only one merc highsteer arm, for the drag link can help me with the bump steer as well as the consequences of moving the axle forward and the drag link touching the tie rod...
is it a good idea? is there any other good solution for SPUA steering?
Keep in mind that the Vitara lower pitman arm is not available anywhere...
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 5:35 pm |
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The merc piece of rubbish that doesn't fit won't work. It will foul on the chassis on full compression/flex.
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 7:28 pm |
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steve you keep turning me off  so what is the solution for steering, if no drop pitman arm is available? Z drag link?
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got_bar_work
Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 8:30 pm Posts: 2214 Location: Brisbane
Vehicle: SQ625
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:45 am |
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Z link is never a good idea.
Doesnt the Tarago arm fit?
Would need new draglink with bigger rod end or make a sleeve
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:49 am |
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There's no need for a "solution"- there's nothing to solve. Stock drag link and pitman arm are fine. The vitara drop pitman arm was just an experiment.
Steve.
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got_bar_work
Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 8:30 pm Posts: 2214 Location: Brisbane
Vehicle: SQ625
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 7:41 am |
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MrRocky
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4731 Location: perth
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 8:54 am |
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Keep in mind your spring length to an extent governs where your wheel sits in the arch. Unless you plan on chopping a fair bit out of the body or make custom mounts your only going to have about 40mm max to play with unless you run large bumpstops and more lift than is required. 235/85r16 you say you want to run is the max size you will fit in a stock sierra wheel arch and still be able to retain full susp motion without alot of thinking and trial and error on your behalf. Same issue as the jimnys in the sense that full "kits" require alot of re-jigging most of this stuff your just gunna have to syck it and see
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 5:20 pm |
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is there someone here who has an experience wih Zanfi products?
i think of buying their full float kit for the rear of suzuki samurai... never managd to find someone who has it on his suzuki...
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MrRocky
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4731 Location: perth
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Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 10:35 am |
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Thats the italian mob yeah ?
There axles snap just like stockers from what ive seen
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 10:48 am |
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If the terrain you are driving is consistent with the video you posted, you won't need full float axles with 325 85 16's. stock axles will be plenty strong enough.
Steve.
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 3:39 pm |
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MrRocky wrote: Thats the italian mob yeah ?
There axles snap just like stockers from what ive seen thats right! and what you say suprises me...as they claim to be very strong and high qulity.. and for steve: i wish to be sure... i want to make the rear stronger....and silverbacks from low range are out of stock. everyone here are telling me to go with hilux but i dont really want to...
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MrRocky
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4731 Location: perth
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Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 8:08 am |
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Ive done 60,000 kms of driving like an idiot offroad in my current rig on skinny 32"s and 90,000kms in the last rig on fat 32"s with a spool and beadlocks running 4psi. If your susp is setup right theres no issue if its starts bouncing and hopping just get of the gas and pick a better line. Smokin 4th year low 
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 5:10 pm |
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I'm sure you won't have rear axle issues with 235 85 16'S on stock axles.
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 2:34 am |
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OK thanks guys...i'll wait with th rear full float. as for the suspension - i think i will go with CJ's fronts on the front and rear of my samurai... need 3" of chasis extenssion and take the rear spring hanger backwards as well... and by the way... you all can see my rig and some others ain this list of SJK owners around the world... http://www.omrigi.com/#!project-k/c1ex1
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5ierra
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 1645 Location: Ipswich
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Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 7:50 am |
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sagi wrote: OK thanks guys...i'll wait with th rear full float. as for the suspension - i think i will go with CJ's fronts on the front and rear of my samurai... need 3" of chasis extenssion and take the rear spring hanger backwards as well... and by the way... you all can see my rig and some others ain this list of SJK owners around the world... http://www.omrigi.com/#!project-k/c1ex1I think CJ fronts on the front of a Sami would be excessive. One of the great things about sami's is the approach angle, why ruin that with a 3" chassis extension? Cj's in the back, 100% agree, i've done this and its fantastic. But Sierra rears in the front are more than enough.
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sagi
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:53 pm Posts: 41
Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2007
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Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 3:59 pm |
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5ierra wrote:
I think CJ fronts on the front of a Sami would be excessive. One of the great things about sami's is the approach angle, why ruin that with a 3" chassis extension? Cj's in the back, 100% agree, i've done this and its fantastic. But Sierra rears in the front are more than enough.
the chassis extension for RUF is about 2"... so to add 1" its that critical? and i get a longer spring, and the option to carry one set of main leafs for spare for the front and rear
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