[Gwagensteve]

I agree at this point a general photo of the front end and steering configuration, along with some detail of the perches would be very helpful.

[cyprus73]

Hi All.
Appreciate all your feedback. Some photo's below

[cyprus73]

More photos to come

[cyprus73]

[rustyzook]

Not sure if it's just me, but that pitman arm looks wrong, looks like a vitara pitman.

Have you tried it without the wedges?

[Gwagensteve]

Yes, it is a vitara pitman arm.

[cyprus73]

Yes tryed without wedges. Same issue. That's why I tried
Adding them. Yes pitman arm is Vitara as I'm using the Vitara
Steering box

[rustyzook]

I run vitara steering box, with Sierra pitman.

[tanshi]

rustyzook wrote:

I run vitara steering box, with Sierra pitman.

unless its a non power steer box no you dont. pretty sure the splines are different.

[rustyzook]

Your right, I run a jimny pitman arm not Sierra

[flymaster]

No expert declaration, but check to make sure the fixed end on the front spring hanger(one behind front shock) hasn't been cut off,flipped and welded back on. Sometimes done when doing RUF conversions, your shackle angle does look to be sitting vertical.
Get your wheel alingment dude to write down all settings including Caster and Toe in-out, most never bother checking caster on solid axle, since they can't alter without shims. This would help with Forum help knowing specs.
Get someone to work the steering wheel a little back and forward and look for play/wear in the box,ball joints, steering box and rubber biscuit(which can be replaced with a uni type one when using power steering).
Bushes are correct for the bolts, some aftermarket are designed for 1/2in bolts, usually wear will cause steering shimmy or vagueness.
Lastly, could prob do a chassis alignment check to see if she's had a little moment in her life.

[lgp29]

It looks in the pictures that you are running steel on steel as your bump stops.
This is not related to your steering issue, but would need sorting if it is the case

[cyprus73]

lgp29 wrote:

It looks in the pictures that you are running steel on steel as your bump stops.
This is not related to your steering issue, but would need sorting if it is the case

Yes havn't got to them yet. These were put in when it had the SPOA setup. I have OEM rubber ones
which will replace the box steel previous owner installed.

FYI.
Have the car booked for wheel alignment 8am tomorrow morning. Will post results once I have them.
Thks all.

[cyprus73]

Hi All.

Took the car to a steering specialist. He drove the car and confirmed that there is an issue with
steering / return to center.

Inspected steering and couldnt see anything obvious. Put it on the wheel alignment machine and results
as follows:

Caster +4degree 58min Factory specs should be 3degree 20min
Front Camber left +0degree 03min
right -1degree 20min


Question to all, how / what do i do to fix Front right Camber?

[Scrawny]

Your best bet might be to track down another housing

[flymaster]

I'll start the hyperthetical question, would it be possible to mill the steering knuckle a minimal amount to correct camber? And how much could you go before undue stress on the 4 spindle bolts. There was a discussion on this subject a fair while ago, but it was for a Suzie racer.

[cyprus73]

flymaster wrote:

I'll start the hyperthetical question, would it be possible to mill the steering knuckle a minimal amount to correct camber? And how much could you go before undue stress on the 4 spindle bolts. There was a discussion on this subject a fair while ago, but it was for a Suzie racer.

Yer saw that. The guy machined it 3 degree.

[flymaster]

Yep, lime green machine.
Spoke to my machinist years ago about doing my passenger side, it had +1/2degree camber which is not a good combo combined with an over cambered/deteriorating road. Always had to Hold the wheel with opposite pressure to keep straight. You could see where the front diff had been damaged at some point from a stump/rock.
Have you checked that your replacement steering box hasn't been over tightened on the adjustment screw?

[cyprus73]

flymaster wrote:

Yep, lime green machine.
Spoke to my machinist years ago about doing my passenger side, it had +1/2degree camber which is not a good combo combined with an over cambered/deteriorating road. Always had to Hold the wheel with opposite pressure to keep straight. You could see where the front diff had been damaged at some point from a stump/rock.
Have you checked that your replacement steering box hasn't been over tightened on the adjustment screw?

Hi.

I have tryed adjusting it, but less and then more. Where I have it now fells the best not to light and minimal
slop.
Thks for your feedback.

[Gwagensteve]

Get a new housing. It's most likely been bent from welding when the SPOA pads were added.

I do not believe it's feasible to machine the knuckle to correct camber. It will move the axle off centre in the axle tube which will cause issues with the inner axle seal.

I still think you need to drive another sierra to prove whether yours has a problem. I would not take the word of the wheel alignment guy.

How does the steering feel wth the front wheels off the ground? is it light or does it feel tight or grabby off centre?

[clanger]

My sierra had what sounds the same as 1st post. Turned out to be the bushing in the firewall dry and tight i just sprayed wd40 at it few times, it eventually soaked in. Had to spray again after pressure cleaning in engine bay. Short term fix but worked.

[sideways]

New housing is your best bet.

You used to be able to buy tapered shims that went between the knuckle and spindle. They were made by/called "shim-o-line" or something like that. They came with matching tapered washers to go under the heads of the bolts. For Landcruisers ect you can buy offset kingpin bearings (shells) to correct this but I doubt such a thing exists for Suzukis.

As mentioned, put it up on stands and if it feels like it binds it's should be easy to find with an assistant spinning the wheel back and forth. If the cars had a hard previous life and you can't find an issue with the column ect it could even be a broken CV/CV junk jamming up the housing/cv/kingpin bearing.