[monley]

The bush's that come in the tough dog panhard rods were are super tight fit, i had to wedge one on the brackets out just to get it in.

[zukenutter]

monkey wrote:

The bush's that come in the tough dog panhard rods were are super tight fit, i had to wedge one on the brackets out just to get it in.

I had to use a jack to force mine in

[monley]

I had to use a jack to force mine in [/quote]



Just before i left i took my jimny for a quick drive and guess what? it's back so i'm hoping it will go away again when i take my RTC of to put my new drag link on and i'll see if it make any difference, with the RTC and with out.

[zukenutter]

monkey wrote:

I had to use a jack to force mine in

Just before i left i took my jimny for a quick drive and guess what? it's back so i'm hoping it will go away again when i take my RTC of to put my new drag link on and i'll see if it make any difference, with the RTC and with out.[/quote]

Will be an interesting experiment.

[monley]

zukenutter wrote:

monkey wrote:

I had to use a jack to force mine in

Just before i left i took my jimny for a quick drive and guess what? it's back so i'm hoping it will go away again when i take my RTC of to put my new drag link on and i'll see if it make any difference, with the RTC and with out.

Will be an interesting experiment.[/quote]

Yes it will be, i will let you know how it goes.

[sideways]

Hey guys, I wouldn't complain if I was you, Suzuki has a very easy way of fixing it, that is IFS.

Lets keep the only current day completely non IFS 4WD with the right kind of suspension hay?

Thanks

Hayden

[monley]

sideways wrote:

Hey guys, I wouldn't complain if I was you, Suzuki has a very easy way of fixing it, that is IFS.

Lets keep the only current day completely non IFS 4WD with the right kind of suspension hay?

Thanks

Hayden

It's not a matter of complaining, it's a bit of a safety issue.

[steak_knife]

monkey wrote:

It's not a matter of complaining, it's a bit of a safety issue.

Have you take it to a suzuki dealer yet??

[monley]

steak_knife wrote:

monkey wrote:

It's not a matter of complaining, it's a bit of a safety issue.

Have you take it to a suzuki dealer yet??

Nope not yet, i will wait til i get my new drag link and i'll take my RTC off before i do an see if that make's any difference.

[steak_knife]

I'm going to type it out again, this time I'm going to make it a lil easyer to read.......





ADJUST THE F*#KING KING PIN'S EVERYONE!!!!!

It work's, I've done lot's & lot's & lot's & lot's of em...

[monley]

Why will they be out on a car that has only done 5,500 km's though?

What causes them to need adjusting?

Have suzuki admitted it's the problem?

[Zookyliz]

Sorry Stekky, what are you trying to convey here?!??!

[steak_knife]

5'500km, you've driven it, so one "could" say it's possible "some" thing's may need adjusting?? you have larger that factory tyre's fitted, you have raised it making std caster unachievable.
We are a lill harder on them than Mr Suzuki thought we would be, he made a cheap lil run about that "could" be taken up a dirt track or beach (not at speed & not the type of track's we like to head for)..


I know of some one on this forum that has a copy of this "secret fix" & everything HAS BEEN covered in this thread.....

Everyone asks why lift should affect it???

1. Your caster is out ( IMO it never had enough anyway)
2. A part's fitter has put spanner's to YOUR car, this is an un known factor, he "could" of letf bolt's loose or over tightened damaging mount's, bolt's or bush's. ( from Suzuki's point of view)
3.Your drag link is now of it's desirable angle.
4. Bigger tyre's are always fitted at the same time or very shortly after, giving a greater weight one the 4 lil bearing's that hold the hub's to the diff housing ( bringing us to the point of the piss weak f*#cking housings)

If you don't like the decision of car you bought, sell it & buy a leafy....

[royce]

steak_knife wrote:

5'500km, you've driven it, so one "could" say it's possible "some" thing's may need adjusting?? you have larger that factory tyre's fitted, you have raised it making std caster unachievable.
We are a lill harder on them than Mr Suzuki thought we would be, he made a cheap lil run about that "could" be taken up a dirt track or beach (not at speed & not the type of track's we like to head for)..


I know of some one on this forum that has a copy of this "secret fix" & everything HAS BEEN covered in this thread.....

Everyone asks why lift should affect it???

1. Your caster is out ( IMO it never had enough anyway)
2. A part's fitter has put spanner's to YOUR car, this is an un known factor, he "could" of letf bolt's loose or over tightened damaging mount's, bolt's or bush's. ( from Suzuki's point of view)
3.Your drag link is now of it's desirable angle.
4. Bigger tyre's are always fitted at the same time or very shortly after, giving a greater weight one the 4 lil bearing's that hold the hub's to the diff housing ( bringing us to the point of the piss weak f*#cking housings)

If you don't like the decision of car you bought, sell it & buy a leafy....

lift makes the angle of the arms worse too, try pushing a wheelbarrow with one hand then try pushing it with the handles higher up in the air

[monley]

I will take it to suzuki and get them to adjust the king pins then.

Cheers.

[zukenutter]

monkey wrote:

I will take it to suzuki and get them to adjust the king pins then.

Cheers.

I reckon there's a good chance you'll be paying for it as they'll possibly say your mods have voided the warranty.

[hermsie62]

steak_knife wrote:

I'm going to type it out again, this time I'm going to make it a lil easyer to read.......





ADJUST THE F*#KING KING PIN'S EVERYONE!!!!!

It work's, I've done lot's & lot's & lot's & lot's of em...

What is the best way to adjust the King pins. As mentioned earlier I took my Jimny to Pedders and they said the bushes and steering box were fine and were surprised when they removed the caps there were no shims . They then said they would have to machine the plate first to fit shims?. They even spoke to the local Suzuki dealer and they had no idea so I said I would find out a bit more before deciding what to do.
Paul

[zukenutter]

Check out this older thread. Info has been gathered over time and is spread out a bit. The shims are shown in the last post of page 3.

More wobble and shim info

[kenn]

Have a read here
www.niumotorsports.com/formula/Learn/Su ... ension.pdf -
Could help..

[hermsie62]

Thanks for the info Zukenutter and Kenn.


Steak_knife, I copied this from that link and want to know if you still think this is the best fix.

Do you want the factory fix????

Steering dampener, adj steering box ( only ever a slight adjustment) & machine the rotor`s, this HAS worked every time I`ve done it & wiil normaly last 40k before the rotor`s need to be skimmed again.

Also, still want to know what is the best way to pre load.
Cheers, Paul

[steak_knife]

Do I really have to type it all out again???

[hermsie62]

Sorry mate, but on one post you state to adjust the preload on the kingpins and on the older post you state that the factory fix is to add dampers, adjust steering box and machine the rotors so Yes, please type out which one works as it is not too clear to me.
Cheers, Paul.

[steak_knife]

They all work, depending on what need's adjusting, if the wobble start's when braking then the rotor's & steering box adj, if still slightly there fit a dampner, while the rotor's are off the pre load & king pin play should be checked.

This is what I used to do, step by step. ( I'm going to skip the test drive:roll:)
1. jack up front & stand's under diff ( leaving enough room for the leading arm bolt's to be checked.)
2. check for movement in the king pin's & wheel bearings while the wheel's are still on.
3. remove wheel's, caliper's & rotor's. ( rotor's get machined if needed)
4. drop tie bar & drag link's off & out of the way.
5. remove wiper seal's & check for ANY sign's of rust/water, if there's any, the king pin bearing's get replaced.
6. check for drag on hub ( the wheel bearing hub & stub axle should really be removed, they will cause drag, but not much, so they stayed on for most of the one's I did.)
7. if adjustment needed ( from memory the drag is 4.6kg) remove the king pin's one by one & ad 1 shim per, checking drag each time a shim is fitted, only once did I only fit one per side.( king pin's tightened before drag checked) I also greased the bearing's while the pin was out, didn't get paid by suzuki to do so, but just something I did.
8. re fit wiper seal's after a hand full of grease jammed into the swivel hub.
9. back off ALL bolt's & re tighten on the leading arm's, pan hard arm's & just cause your there, the shock's ( some of the older Jim's had the rear of arm bush's replaced, there was a cut off date/vin range before a stiffer bush was fitted factory)
10. re fit all bit's you removed. (not going to type it all out.... )
11. adj steering box, which is better of left to some poor bugger that knows how to do, I have had to adjust & re adjust several time's, so please take care if you going to adjust your self, as an improper adjustment can/will bugger your steering box .
12. drive the no more wobble jim & enjoy the now tight feeling steering..

You will notice the steering is stiffer, so those of us with the pov pack's with out P/s, you will be working a lil harder to turn the wheel, but, this extra drag is what is needed to achieve the no wobble.

Notice I didn't mention a dampner???? not all need em, but I highly recommend fitment, & not the RTC shit, just a dampner.

P.S. any thing I have missed I will ad later & spelling mistake's & grammar you can shove!

Steve..

[monley]

One thing i did notice is the steering feels very very light, but is because the castor angle is out?

[steak_knife]

monkey wrote:

One thing i did notice is the steering feels very very light, but is because the castor angle is out?

That & you more than likely haven't enough drag on the king pin's..

If a Jim had lift, I was informed by Suzuki to send em away to return the car in a std state, other wise the work would not be carried out under warranty.
Like wise any courier, Energex, Aus post, security ect would not be warranty as it was considered "extreme condition's", & before you jump up & down about what "extreme condition's" are, the head engineer from japan spent a few week's here & said the whole of Australia should be classed as that, most other jap manufacturer's agree..

[hermsie62]

Mate, really appreciate all that info. Thank you very much.
Paul

[royce]

monkey wrote:

One thing i did notice is the steering feels very very light, but is because the castor angle is out?

I know all the books talk about castor and heavy steering but my mini with race tyres and 2.5 turns lock to lock I can go from no castor to double factory and I cant tell the difference, on a solid front end 4wd tight bushes and scraper seals ( Suzuki used to call these very important) will make the steering heavier than castor

[steak_knife]

hermsie62 wrote:

Mate, really appreciate all that info. Thank you very much.
Paul

I've type that or similar out several time's in pm's, so now it's out here I shouldn't have to type it out again..

Just to clarify, the shim's that add drag to the swivel hub's are the lil washer looking one's, the other square one reduce the amount of drag..

I can't remember the dimension's of the lil shim's, & I don't have assess to the info that I used to anymore..

[zukenutter]

royce wrote:

monkey wrote:

One thing i did notice is the steering feels very very light, but is because the castor angle is out?

I know all the books talk about castor and heavy steering but my mini with race tyres and 2.5 turns lock to lock I can go from no castor to double factory and I cant tell the difference, on a solid front end 4wd tight bushes and scraper seals ( Suzuki used to call these very important) will make the steering heavier than castor

Jimnys do have very light steering, castor is definitely noticeable when it's too far negative, steering becomes lighter and very jittery. Even a bit scary sometimes. going back to standard is definitely better and I will soon know what positive caster feels like.

[Highway-Star]

steak_knife wrote:

Like wise any courier, Energex, Aus post, security ect would not be warranty as it was considered "extreme condition's", & before you jump up & down about what "extreme condition's" are, the head engineer from japan spent a few week's here & said the whole of Australia should be classed as that, most other jap manufacturer's agree..

Rather amusing. This is why some overseas model cars just don't suit Australia at all IMO.


I don't usually comment on this sort of thing; but that numbered list of Stekky's should be put in the "good tech" section. So its easier to find in the future, and the poor bloke doesn't end up typing it again! Especially considering this issues comes up often.