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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:22 am 
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I have just replaced the rear wheel bearings on my 93 WT sierra.
I used a Bursons wheel bearing kit. I had the bearings removed and pressed on by a diff shop. I installed the axles by hitting in with a block of wood and hammer. I had about 1.5-2mm of the bearing showing out of the axle housing which from my reading looked normal.

I installed the drums and couldn't rotate the wheel. This was the same for both sides. :? I worked out that the axles were sitting further in the housing which in turn let the back of the drums tighten up against the backing plates. :(

I packed out the drum using some washers to test my theory. The wheels now turn as expected.
I took it for a drive and had significant pedal pulse. I put this down to the drum not up against the axle locator. Not a satisfactory fix at all. :x

Anyone had this problem? Any suggestions?

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:33 am 
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can you be sure its hitting the backing plate and its not the shoes rubbing inside the drum?

the pulsing is the drum now not being square, I wouldnt drive it cause the studs will snap and wheel fall off

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:47 am 
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royce wrote:
can you be sure its hitting the backing plate and its not the shoes rubbing inside the drum?

the pulsing is the drum now not being square, I wouldnt drive it cause the studs will snap and wheel fall off


Could be the shoes on the drum.

Any idea on a fix. I want to wheel Saturday.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:55 am 
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I would pop the axles out a tad and then push them back in with the axle retainer so they arent to far in (though they really cant be too far in) and back the brakes off and see what its like, then adjust the brakes back up and see where it rubs

if the drums need machining PM Gypsy he might be able to help

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:11 am 
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Did you get the same bearings?
NT use a spacer and WT it is built into the bearing... If you somehow got NT bearings fitted without the spacer you will have the troubles you have described.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:18 am 
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There was no noticeable step on the bearings. :?

I had figured that I needed some kind of spacer to get the axle out of the housing a little would be the most suitable fix. Talking about 1 to 2 mm for the spacer. Does that sound right?

Don't really want to take the axles out again. :evil:

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:25 am 
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from memory spacer ring is 5mm or maybe a tiny bit more. I'll take a pic in the morning for you.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:30 am 
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Thanks Jas. 5mm would definately give it enough clearance.
Looks like the axles coming out!!

Eyes are getting sore, don't see myself making it to work tomorrow. :roll:

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:38 am 
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DMAC wrote:
Thanks Jas. 5mm would definately give it enough clearance.
Looks like the axles coming out!!

Eyes are getting sore, don't see myself making it to work tomorrow. :roll:


bludger.... :roll:

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:15 am 
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[quote="royce"]can you be sure its hitting the backing plate and its not the shoes rubbing inside the drum?

the pulsing is the drum now not being square, I wouldnt drive it cause the studs will snap and wheel fall off[/quote

sorry to hijack the thread

but my brakes are pulsing atm, its a 2000 model SWB GV and iv just replaced the rear brakes with the full hub from a 96 model as my gv brakes were totally stuffed and it would have costed me some terrible things in a dark ally to fix them

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:17 am 
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This is exactly what happened to me few weeks ago when my rear wheel bearing died. I ended up concluding that the axle must be a different length on the outside; manufacturing tolerances (I put in a different axle).

My solution (somewhat dodgey) was to "shim" the drum out using 0.5mm thick washers I got from repco. I didn't have much choice as I wasn't at home. I have been driving on it since, and had actually forgotten about it :oops: .

I'm thinking now it may have actually been the wheel bearing, as it was an odd looking one I thought at the time. I remember when I bought the axle off want33's he said that there were different wheel bearings for WT and NT, but I didn't think much of it at the time as I was in a rush..... Might be my problem too :P . meh time for a full floater rear with disks :twisted:

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:51 am 
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the spacer is 5mm by my calculations

NT rear wheel bearing is a 6207.2RS which is 35x72x17

WT rear wheel being is a BG357222DW which is 35x72x22

the only difference in the two is the extended inner ring on one side of the WT bearing, meaning no spacer has to be used.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:53 am 
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Thanks Weaves. Would have gotten them through you but was short on time. :oops:

Bearing No. Will hopefully help today.

Is it possible to put them on back to front?

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:13 pm 
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DMAC wrote:
Thanks Weaves. Would have gotten them through you but was short on time. :oops:

Bearing No. Will hopefully help today.

Is it possible to put them on back to front?

It is possible to put them on backwards,YES.
When you look at a WT bearing the inner race is wider than the outer race. It sticks out one side only.. This side faces to axle flange.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 4:59 pm 
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Thanks guys. :cheers:
This is why Auszookers is so good. Hopefully others will be educated too and save themselves some $ and fustration. :P

Axles are out, bearings ordered, should be all back in tonight, wheel tomorrow. :D

PS. Weaves, Bearing No. BG357222DW should be 'D'G357222DW. Fat finger syndrome I guess. :wink:

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:13 pm 
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Actually it was 10.30 at night and i was running off memory, there are some series of automotive that run the numbers 30BG**** (usually alternator and compressor bearings), i just got them mixed up. lol, Sorry about that.

And just for my interest, is my $50 a side competitive for the kits you got?

I know freight can sometimes be the difference to whether im competitive or not.

cheers weaves

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:28 pm 
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weaves wrote:
Actually it was 10.30 at night and i was running off memory, there are some series of automotive that run the numbers 30BG**** (usually alternator and compressor bearings), i just got them mixed up. lol, Sorry about that.

And just for my interest, is my $50 a side competitive for the kits you got?

I know freight can sometimes be the difference to whether im competitive or not.

cheers weaves


No dramas on the No. the end result is correct bearings. :D
The Burson Kit for NT was $50.

I'll let you know what I get the collar and bearings for tonight. No seal though.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:01 am 
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Bearings $38.40
Collar $9.60

Axles in, drums running true. All is good in the DMAC, LTM21 household. :P

Looks like we're wheelin tomorrow. :twisted:

If anyone looking for transmission work around Brendale North Brisbane I cannot recommend Harts Transmissions on Southpine Rd. highly enough.

:goodjob:

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:07 am 
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DMAC wrote:
Looks like we're wheelin tomorrow. :twisted:


Where's the invite :cry: :cry:

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:36 am 
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So were they fitted backwards or did they leave out the spacer?

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 11:24 am 
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want33s wrote:
So were they fitted backwards or did they leave out the spacer?


Lef out the spacer. :x

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 2:06 pm 
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DMAC wrote:
want33s wrote:
So were they fitted backwards or did they leave out the spacer?


Lef out the spacer. :x


Easy trick that one.. :roll:

I've left the backing plate off many time's.. 8O

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 2:14 pm 
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steknig wrote:
DMAC wrote:
want33s wrote:
So were they fitted backwards or did they leave out the spacer?


Lef out the spacer. :x


Easy trick that one.. :roll:

I've left the backing plate off many time's.. 8O


That can be somewhat limiting when trying to re-install the shoes :lol: :lol:

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 10:21 pm 
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or use the sj410 backing plate conversion.. than you can forget the backing plate as much as you want :)

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