[aynl]

Been contemplating doing a ruf on my wt sj70 for bigger tyres down the track. While im moving mounts i wondered would there be any major down sides to creeping the leafs a bit closer together to allow more room for large tyres turning while flexing?

[appsie]

so you mean pretty much running the spring mounts all in to NT specs???40mm or whatever it is?If your work and welding will be nice and strong on chassis mounts and diff perches go for it

In theory it could make the car a bit sloppier handling wise??(correct me if im wrong) but could also help with flex with the extra forces out wider.To me tho if it allows you to steer bigger rubber without hitting springs,and allow uptravel without hitting the standard shock tower then its a good thing and eliminates the use of spacers etc

[aynl]

Yes well i wouldn't trust my welds, but i have a friend whos a boiler maker and a friend who can mod plate it if the welds and spacing is actuate. Sloppier handling i can handle if it means i dont have to run spacers which i think are illegal in qld. And having had just replaced all wheel bearing, ($200 ) spacers are something i really want to stay away from. The little bit of extra travel would be welcomed as well.

The back is easily done in my opinion, but im not sure about the front shock any ideas? Spoa and mount it straight onto the diff maybe? I'm new to this so im just thinking out loud so to speak.

[appsie]

spacers are a no go on the roads anywhere mate..probably a good thing after seeing my mates wheel fall off.

what size tyres are you planning on running??with the right offset rim you might clear still.Procomp rims while a bit dear can be bought in decent offset but that help with the bearing problem more and more

[Gwagensteve]

I've pulled a few WT cars back to NT spring spacing, It's a good mod. Like everything, it can be done quick and rough- (We did one in a day) or slowly and carefully. Ideally, the neatest way is to cut the RHF U Bolt saddle off of a NT diff, as the Ubolts need to be well positioned on the RHF - the bolt has to run almost hard against the cast 3rd member.

You'll also need longer U bolts for the RHF.

As for the chassis mounts, It's all pretty straightforward, remove and replace. Just remember to measure twice and cut once.

Lower roll stiffness doesn't really make for sloppier handling, just more body roll. The added clearance in the front is a very good thing, as is the added flex.

Steve.