[Che]

The plan before years end is to turn the crud box into a jungle jim camo car, like i've photoshopped in the pic below.




Got a few bodywork issues in the meantime to sort out, might get some feedback off anyone if they can help. I've mananged to put on a new drivers door which solved the worst of my bodywork problems, but still one or two things I want to clarify before I get cracking.

Not sure how to dress these gaps in the bonnet. I don't want rust coming back like it is (gonna be a beach runner), so i'm thinking of filling up gaps with Sikaflex, or something similar. Can I sikaflex along the bonnet bracing panel too (I mean right above the engine) or will dissipating heat just melt it off?






There's been a light impact at the front of the drivers side at some point, as here the Sikaflex has actually cracked off showing where the panels has come from. Just wondering if I can move the bottom side of the front quarter panel in somehow (just 3 or 4 mm) to tighten up this gap that has opened up. If it's fixable by adjusting a few bolts i'll give it a go, as the front plastic fascia isn't held on properly. If it requires heavy panel work, I might let it slip for now.



Same here to - gotta fix this dodgy welding as the rust is gonna come straight back. Will this need to be cut out? Looks like it was never prepped and had weathered heavily. Not sure if they're drilled out spot welds either side, or holes for something else either.




Not sure what happened here either. The Flare panel sits too high along the wheel arch. The bumper cornerette is the alignment it should be aiming for. How to sort this out? I haven't pulled off the flares yet, so i'm not sure how it's all holding on. I reckon this'll be the trickiest job I have left.





Anyway - tips, tricks, advice?...

[finlay113]

sikaflex is so strong, it wont be melted by the heat under the bonnet.

[Che]

Do you sand Sikaflex when it's cured? Never used it before

[Fatzook]

Don't seal the bonnet! You will never get it 100% and you will make it that much harder for trapped moisture to get out.

Paint your car, then drench the bastard in Penetrol. It spreads out over panels itself and does not run or streak. Dries clear. You could even apply it before the paint as they recommend. I have used this shit and swear by it!!

Pete

[shep]

che_guitarra wrote:

Do you sand Sikaflex when it's cured or cut to shape with a stanely knife?

not sandable and i am fairly sure that you wont get paint to stick to it long term.

[joeblow]

dude......cammo paint is so WWII...............

[Fatzook]

joeblow wrote:

dude......cammo paint is so WWII...............

And?

[squirezook]

Fatzook wrote:

Paint your car, then drench the bastard in Penetrol. It spreads out over panels itself and does not run or streak. Dries clear. You could even apply it before the paint as they recommend. I have used this shit and swear by it!!

Pete

X200 That stuff is awesome soaks into rust and that is the end of it. Says on the can you can't use 2pac over it, other paint types ok.

[Fatzook]

squirezook wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Paint your car, then drench the bastard in Penetrol. It spreads out over panels itself and does not run or streak. Dries clear. You could even apply it before the paint as they recommend. I have used this shit and swear by it!!

Pete

X200 That stuff is awesome soaks into rust and that is the end of it. Says on the can you can't use 2pac over it, other paint types ok.

You can apply it over 2 pack, but not under it.

[hooki]

Which shops stock Penetrol? Somewhere like bunnings or only specialised stores?

[removed1]

joeblow wrote:

dude......cammo paint is so WWII...............

Dude...

"Digi Camo"

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl= ... CB8Q9QEwAg

Also for the rust issue spray her and then get a CouplerTec for her, you'll never get any rust past surface rust again... I worked for them and have one working in my Suzi & still evaluating a bare spot under my rear bumper after a prang... Still only surface after a year and a few beach runs etc etc etc...

[squirezook]

hooki wrote:

Which shops stock Penetrol? Somewhere like bunnings or only specialised stores?

Bunnings have it. Don't take fright at the price it goes a long way because it is so thin

[Che]

Seeing I grow dope crops for bikies and kill hikers on muddy trails for a living, I think camo is an appropriate colour... but different strokes for different folks.


Penetrol - is that the same thing as the 'stage 1' Killrust pre-primer stuff? The liquid stuff that turns panels black?

How do I re-apply primer in the hard to get to spots like between the bonnet and the bracing panel? I want to make sure no surface goes untreated.

[shakes]

another awesome sealer is por15

[Fatzook]

che_guitarra wrote:

How do I re-apply primer in the hard to get to spots like between the bonnet and the bracing panel? I want to make sure no surface goes untreated.

take your bonnet off and spray the penetrol in the crack and shake the bonnet around. No need for paint or primer if you do this.

[Che]

Fatzook wrote:

take your bonnet off and spray the penetrol in the crack and shake the bonnet around. No need for paint or primer if you do this.

Does it do it's thing over a painted panel, or does it need to be bare metal? Sorry for the noob Q's, but i'm learning as i'm going in this area of car repair.

On that - i've been watching all the youtube pro tutorial vids I can on prep work - the repairers use so many different prep layers it boggling. For example, from bare metal - a wipe with adhesion solvent X, primer, bog adhesion primer, bog, etching primer, bog adhesion to top coat solvent, top coat x 3, clear x 7..... In between each layer they're using infinitely finer sandpapers to the point of 800 grit in some cases... do I really need all this? I'm not driving a Bentley Continental afterall.

[squirezook]

che_guitarra wrote:

Penetrol - is that the same thing as the 'stage 1' Killrust pre-primer stuff? The liquid stuff that turns panels black?

How do I re-apply primer in the hard to get to spots like between the bonnet and the bracing panel? I want to make sure no surface goes untreated.

Not like stage 1 Killrust.
Penetrol is a very thin (like penetrating oil) Primer it will stick anyware.
Pour it inside panels and it will soak into seams and you can paint over when it dries if you want.

[Che]

What about the flare panel? How on earth am I gonna fix that?

I may be a bit of a Maguyver, but no amount of duct tape or matchsticks is gonna solve that problem.

[Fatzook]

che_guitarra wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

take your bonnet off and spray the penetrol in the crack and shake the bonnet around. No need for paint or primer if you do this.

Does it do it's thing over a painted panel, or does it need to be bare metal? Sorry for the noob Q's, but i'm learning as i'm going in this area of car repair.

It goes on over paint quite well. Really you have no options here. Its not like you can upick the frame and bonnet skin to paint them. Just do the best you can.

[Che]

Sorry to raise this post from the death again, but after sussing out Penetrol and POR15 a little further - the manufacturers seem a little vague on the topic of using acrylic paint as a top coat... other top coating options get a mention, but they don't offer a recommendation for acrylic paint - kinda like they done it on purpose.

Is there a specific primer type I need to bond over this, or is acrylic a no-no as a top coat over this stuff? I can't find any of these treatments in Bunnings, Repco or SCA to read the labels for myself.


Acrylic (top coat) I can do myself, so all foundation prep has to be suitable.


Out of interest too, what is the code / colour name of the Suzuki Sierra factory white (circa 1990)?