[ianscott2003]

I know you can fit the sc12 off a 4agze to the engine, my question how hard is it to fit and will I need a aftermarket computer. Another option would be a small turbo like a t25 off a ca18det.

[31zook]

i heard a 2.8 diesel rodeo turbo works also....

[Fatzook]

31zook wrote:

i heard a 2.8 diesel rodeo turbo works also....

Anything works if you have the skill and knowlege to make it so

[ck13488]

Fatzook wrote:

31zook wrote:

i heard a 2.8 diesel rodeo turbo works also....

Anything works if you have the skill and knowlege to make it so

and the cash

[dangerousdog]

so has anyone put a sc12 or sc14 onto a G13BB i was thinking about doing this would only want to use it on hightway driving

[Brenno]

I had a supercharged jimny motor - its now sold to Superzuki on this forum.

I had:

amr300 supercharger - should be around 400 bucks
fuel pressure regulator
I used a blow off valve to recirculate the air back into the supercharger once the throttle shuts.

Went well, however as the jimny is untunable its hard to get the mixture just right, would probably need a wideband to tune it properly.
I ran this setup for over a year with no problems.
I wouldnt go any larger than an amr300 - that delivered 6psi throughout the rev range which is more than enough. I would think that the sc12 would deliver a metric farkload more.

I can email pics if you wish.

Cheers

[SuziBlu]

Wouldn't the little 300 be screaming its tits off, I think geared right the SC12, or even the SC14 would be far better. ?

As I understand it, the 300 means 300cc per revolution, so it is small.

[sleeperzook]

SuziBlu wrote:

Wouldn't the little 300 be screaming its tits off, I think geared right the SC12, or even the SC14 would be far better. ?

As I understand it, the 300 means 300cc per revolution, so it is small.

Correct!! 300cc per revolution. Considering you need 650cc per revolution (assuming 1300cc donk) just to make 0 vacuum, then another 325cc per rev to make 7psi, you'd be running an amr300 at 3.25:1. On an engine that can pull out to say 6500rpm you're talking rotor speeds in excess of 21000rpm. Now im not sure of the internals but I know for the sc12 speeds over 10 000rpm will damage the teflon coatings and bugger the seal= no boost.

Now it may be possible to drive an amr300 that hard but you can bet all its doing it making a lot of super hot air, when coupled with bad fuel management and zero timing compensation= detonation. 6 psi isnt a lot but you'd be running very rich to keep it safe, just using a rising rate fuel pressure reg.

I'm not an expert but I know from my experiences with my turbo gti (>100rwKw) sierra, thats run 10psi for 2 yrs now, that running turbos/super chargers in their efficient zones is the only way to do it, otherwise your wasting your time and money. Any potential gain in power is quickly countered in losses due to high intake temps, lean mixes and n/a timing advance which will all kill your performance and engine in a short space of time.

Are you sure you weren't running the amr500?

The sc12 on the other hand would is oil cooled, telfon rotors and an electric clutch,so you choose when you want the boost. At 4 times the capacity 1:1 would get you 11psi at easy rotor rpms and cooler temps. Put a wastegate on and this is adjustable!! Ijust happen to know who has a 4agze sc12 sitting in their shed.......me

IMHO 6psi is a good figure. 10psi is sweet for dragging off dicks n commodores at the lights and mad skids, but with good t/case gears 6psi is a good amount of power that wont punish your drive train as much.

My 2c

[jonno_racing]

intresting thoughts on the amr300, i made the mounts for Brenno to mount the charger and i can say it is very small. but i can also say it does work well!

But those numbers are very concering... i may point superduki to this thread (as he now owns the g13bb

i am concidering running light boost on my gti motor with a similar set up. what kind of charger would you guys recomend for a g13b to make around 5psi of boost? i dont want much more power, but enough to makeit pull up hills nicer!

[superduki]

This thread scares me........

Maybe I should look into different pulley sizes? It's interesting in your thoughts, and that would explain why its so good off the line, but nothing up top. My g13bb with the amr300 pulls really really well under est. 3500 rpm, over that just seems to be not that exciting. I love this fact as on 30" tyres and standard gearing I can hit fairly steep hills at 80km/h in 4th, and still pull the same speed over the top. But as you say, it does ping unless I compensate it with extra fuel pressure.

It is definately a worthwhile conversion, Im very very very happy with the performance (more so torque) that it has now.

On a different note, do you have your Sierra tacho working with the g13bb?

Cheers, Superduki.

[ZookiMonsta]

Just stating the obvious, but I'm sure there has been 123502351650 threads on
forcing air and fuel into the 1.3, and 99% of the time everyone says 'it's not
worth it, just through a 1.6 in'.

So it's my turn... It's not worth the small gain compared to the $$$$ forked out,
it would just be cheaper and more efficient to through a 1.6 donk in there.

[Ben_Sierra]

ZookiMonsta wrote:

Just stating the obvious, but I'm sure there has been 123502351650 threads on
forcing air and fuel into the 1.3, and 99% of the time everyone says 'it's not
worth it, just through a 1.6 in'.

So it's my turn... It's not worth the small gain compared to the $$$$ forked out,
it would just be cheaper and more efficient to through a 1.6 donk in there.

Precisely what I was thinking.

A 1.6 will be cheaper, easier to maintain, and give equivalent gains to a few psi into a 1.3.

Why go to all the hassle?

[jonno_racing]

i am thinking a properly boosted 1.3 efi (of any type) would kill any NA 1.6

and 1.6's are getting VERY expencive also requre engnering, so does boost, however boost is easy to remove!

[ZookiMonsta]

jonno_racing wrote:

i am thinking a properly boosted 1.3 efi (of any type) would kill any NA 1.6

and 1.6's are getting VERY expencive also requre engnering, so does boost, however boost is easy to remove!

very true. but if you have a limited budget, a carby 1.6 is better than a carb'd 1.3

[jonno_racing]

thats true.. but have u priced a carbi 1.6 of late??

Boost is the replacemnet for displacment

[royce]

I'd take a supercharged efi 16 valve 1.3 over any stock 1.6 any day

hell i'd take a cammed and jetted carby 1.3 over a carby 1.6 any day!

[ZookiMonsta]

jonno_racing wrote:

thats true.. but have u priced a carbi 1.6 of late??

Boost is the replacemnet for displacment

Nah, but I've heard you can get them under $800 if you look around, I
just bought a zook with the 1.6 already attatched so I didn't have to buy
one.

[sleeperzook]

Everyone has their preferences and I cant comment on a g16 sierra as Ive never driven one (we're sheltered here in SA .

To be honest I can definitely see the merits to putting a g16b in, but in essence with forced induction you're increasing the volumetric efficiency anyways. Obviously Im basing this on calculations and actual figures after losses can vary but to increase the 1300 to effectively a 1600 you require 4.2psi of boost. I love my turbo because I still gets an easy 10l/100km and when I boot it its GOES!! My zook will sprint right past 140km on an over take, if you're game, (turbo's dont make super swb zook handle any better lol). It bombs along great at 110km/h too.

I see boost as more versatile as you can effectively increase your engine size on demand, but you have to know what your doing or costs can get way out of control!! I quite like the idea of a super charged zook g13b purely because you dont have the hassle of manifolds, oil feed/returns and associated oil heat issues, gearbox adapters. The down side of boosting any N/A engine is the fact that the cams tend to have a large overlap, making low down boost near impossible with a turbo, and wasted with a super charger. The great thing about the twin cam g13's is the fact you can bolt vernier cam sprocket on he intake and dial it out ($150 is much cheaper than a replacement/custom cam!!)

People will say turbo's suck cos of lag, but mine comes on at 2400 and is pushing 10 pound (IHI RHB5 turbo) by 2800. I'd like to see the comparative power/rpm figure a n/a g16 is pushing. In any case HP is torque x rpm, so even if both engines make the same torque, the harder revving engine will always make more power. Geared to take advantage of the torque and you've got a weapon.

If I had my time again Id try super charged, probably sc12 (elec clutch is the goods). If your after moderate power and torque gains Id say 5-6pi is sufficient.

This of coarse is based on that fact you already have a injected g13, if you have a carby donk and want to upgrade by way of an engine change, id lean to the g16 for the money.

This is my opinion and is not intended to start a raging debate.

[jonno_racing]

i have been toing and thoawing with the idea of boost on my gti motor for quite a while now but have stuck to N/A, the issues with boost comparison to the benifits. its just not worth it... there is also the risk of engine detonation!! (already had that a few times)

superduki also has a turbo gti that pull's 100kws atw and have very little issues BUT when i think of the extra punisment put though in 4wd heat etc...

i have found that the main thing that kill's 1.3s is heat!

[sleeperzook]

jonno_racing wrote:

i have been toing and thoawing with the idea of boost on my gti motor for quite a while now but have stuck to N/A, the issues with boost comparison to the benifits. its just not worth it... there is also the risk of engine detonation!! (already had that a few times)

superduki also has a turbo gti that pull's 100kws atw and have very little issues BUT when i think of the extra punisment put though in 4wd heat etc...

i have found that the main thing that kill's 1.3s is heat!

I agree in part. The issues are directly related to the quality (not necessarily cost) of the setup and the gains depend on this also.

People doing things on the cheap or with no idea will find themselves spending 2x the cost of a g16 by the time they've paid someone to build manifolds etc and had to rebuild a detonated donk.

I did the lot myself and had access to cheap parts but I wouldnt tell anyone to take the conversion lightly because it can be a pain in the ass!!

If you dont know what your doing or have no fab skills, dont bother - the problems WILL out weigh the gains. For those who have the know how, my only advice would be keep the boost low (5-6 PSI) and avoid oil/engine heat issues and busted bits

For me my zook is a toy, not a daily and meant to be fun. The last thing you want is an unreliable rig that you dont trust or continually throw cash at. My zook owes me $4500 (including original purchase, 30's, locker, t/case gears, BL lift, Haltech computer and turbo set up). If I didnt have to drive 3-4 hours for decent 4WDing I wouldnt be concerned about highway k's and would just have a geared and locked n/a donk. To do 110km/h fully loaded, without ringing its neck, takes a different approach!

[Fatzook]

I reckon drop the 1.6 in. If you still aren't happhy, charge the 1.6 Then you would have an easy 120kw at motor with 6-8psi boost assuming the install is done properly

[sleeperzook]

Fatzook wrote:

I reckon drop the 1.6 in. If you still aren't happhy, charge the 1.6 Then you would have an easy 120kw at motor with 6-8psi boost assuming the install is done properly

I probably should add that the majority of my 4wdin is sand. I've done a bit of rock lately and found the extra power wasnt really much use and mud on 5psi (roughly 1.6 equivalent) was great. Where the power is a real advantage is definitely sand. I could get alot of places my mates with a 1.3 carby zook, a 1.0 ute, 03 rodeo on 28psi and a 355 stroker 80 series could get. You just cant bog the engine, the limiting factor is traction!

It really depends on the type of driving you do. I have no doubt the g16's are a good thing too.

[Fatzook]

The G16 is good down low. It has good torque when fitted to a sierra, and mid and top is acceptable too.

[Brenno]

sleeperzook wrote:

SuziBlu wrote:

Wouldn't the little 300 be screaming its tits off, I think geared right the SC12, or even the SC14 would be far better. ?

As I understand it, the 300 means 300cc per revolution, so it is small.

Correct!! 300cc per revolution. Considering you need 650cc per revolution (assuming 1300cc donk) just to make 0 vacuum, then another 325cc per rev to make 7psi, you'd be running an amr300 at 3.25:1. On an engine that can pull out to say 6500rpm you're talking rotor speeds in excess of 21000rpm. Now im not sure of the internals but I know for the sc12 speeds over 10 000rpm will damage the teflon coatings and bugger the seal= no boost.

Now it may be possible to drive an amr300 that hard but you can bet all its doing it making a lot of super hot air, when coupled with bad fuel management and zero timing compensation= detonation. 6 psi isnt a lot but you'd be running very rich to keep it safe, just using a rising rate fuel pressure reg.

I'm not an expert but I know from my experiences with my turbo gti (>100rwKw) sierra, thats run 10psi for 2 yrs now, that running turbos/super chargers in their efficient zones is the only way to do it, otherwise your wasting your time and money. Any potential gain in power is quickly countered in losses due to high intake temps, lean mixes and n/a timing advance which will all kill your performance and engine in a short space of time.

Are you sure you weren't running the amr500?

The sc12 on the other hand would is oil cooled, telfon rotors and an electric clutch,so you choose when you want the boost. At 4 times the capacity 1:1 would get you 11psi at easy rotor rpms and cooler temps. Put a wastegate on and this is adjustable!! Ijust happen to know who has a 4agze sc12 sitting in their shed.......me

.
SNIP
My 2c

Nope definately an amr300.

THe main reason why i didnt go the sc12 route was space - I already have powersteering and there wasnt a whole lot of room to play with. The sc12 would have been a great option if i could underdrive it/keep pressures low. The supercharger set up on the jimny motor wasnt the best, however, it main heaps more torque, cost bugger all and still drove fine for 2 years without problems. THe only thing that has taken a wack is the fuel econom, but you can deal with that.

EDIT: engine temps never moved and intake temps were nothing more than standard. I never drove my zook contantly around the redline as there was no need.

EDIT 2: thanks for your help sleeper zook - do you have any pics of your set up? cheers

[something_else]

i've had both n/a g13b swift gti and an n/a baleno 2 dr g16b.
the gti pulled hard right from 4k all the way to 8
and the baleno pulls from 3.5 and boogies at 4 up to the 6.5 redline.
overall i like the g16b as it can hold top gear up most hills the low down torque is awesome..
as for the gti up the same hill id have to drop it back. it wouldnt make it without dropping heaps of speed over the same hill in top. but yeah i dunno its a hard decision.
for 4 wheel driving id assume the g16b is better as the low down torque is alot better than the 13.