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Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:26 am
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Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:02 am 
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Gday everybody, new to site and still working it all out, so be kind :wink: I got a couple of questions i hope yoiu guys can answer so i can get get my $500 zook on the road and onto a muddy trail sometime soon.

I got a terrible noise and vibration coming out of the front of the zook when i chuck it in 4wd and it gets worse the faster i try to go. In 2wd its ok and can drive anywhere without any strange noises. i don't think its the uni joints as there's no play in the driveshafts, that's probably the only thing i know to check - any ideas what this might be?

Also - how do i take out the dash? I got a rusty spot under the windscreen near where the heater air intake is and want a better look at it to see how bad it is.


cheers fellas

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omnipotent being
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Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:59 am 
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try it in 4wd with hubs unlocked and 2wd with hubs locked to see if the noise changes

stick your head under the dash, you might be able to see the underside of there without removing it

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az supporter
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:30 pm
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Location: Botany, NSW
Vehicle: MY2019 Jimny

Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:42 pm 
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Maybe your transfer output gear is flogged, they are fairly weeny.

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az supporter
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:30 pm
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Location: NSW
Vehicle: SJ51 LWB, SJ70 SWB

Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:49 pm 
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Front driveshaft bent or out of balance, uni's stiff or stuffed, or play in spline..

Next is Diff centre worn/ bearings stuffed/backlash goone. Check diff flange. up and down movement is bad, as well as in and out movement.

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az supporter
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Location: brisbane logan

Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:06 pm 
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the dash
3 screws ontop of the dash under the plastic covers
nt allen keys in the instrument panel then undo speedo cable
wt 2 screws top and 2 screws bottom of the instruments then undo speedo
2 screws either side of the dash where the window clamps are
2 screws in the heater control panel behind the panel
1 screw under the stereo
2 screws under either side of the corner of the dash

now once you have that make sure you watch the wiring and ducting pipes
i think thats it :oops: :D

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Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:26 am
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Location: tugun

Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:25 pm 
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Gday again. Royce tried what u said with hub locks and 2wd/4wd and didn't notice anything. Seems to be a vibration, but when u back off and deccelerate it turns into a real grindy noise til u jump on the go pedal again, then it goes back to a slow vibration. Too scared to get it above 50kph in 4wd mode, prob not good for it anyway.




How can u tell what model Sierra u have? Mine is the same as this one, just not as nice :( :
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=13720


the dash has square air vents and not round ones

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az supporter
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Location: NSW
Vehicle: SJ51 LWB, SJ70 SWB

Post Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:17 am 
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What year model?

Im guessing its the diff. Mine has made a grinding whir noise, and gave vibration.

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Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:26 am
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Post Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:44 pm 
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My car is a 1989 Sierra hardtop, dunno if its a NT or a WT. What's the difference?

Is a reco diff expensive? Can probably install myself with help of the Haynes manual.

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az supporter
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Location: NSW
Vehicle: SJ51 LWB, SJ70 SWB

Post Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:57 pm 
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It will be a WT. Metal flares, and spring spacing just outboard of chassis.

A reco diff can cost same or more than the car you bought.

A second hand unit would be the go. But you have to find one! Your diff ratio should be 3.7. The front centres can be had from a wreckers near me for $150 ++. Rears go for more $

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