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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 1:01 am 
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drop the engine oil before removing the head, yeah?

Replacing the head gasket & valve stem seals plus many other gaskets that i found were rooted. :x I am yet to buy a torque wrench and valve tools etc. Annnnndddd is degreaser ok to use to clean the tappets/head? I want to clean as much crap out of the engine as I can while I have the carby, inlet manifold etc off. I will be running and engine flush and radiator flush after I replace the gaskets and seals. Anything else I should do while everythings apart?

Any help is appreciated. :wink:

Cheers,
Ryan.

EDIT: And how do I remove the head? I've removed all torque bolts etc. Tap it off with something??


Last edited by 85Drover on Sun Aug 01, 2010 3:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:37 am 
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bump,

please let me know. :)

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Ryan

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:49 am 
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There isn't really any need to drop the oil before pulling the head, unless it is full of water.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 3:27 am 
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put a proper title on this thread :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 3:41 am 
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Get the head machined before you put it back on.

And degreaser is fine.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 3:58 am 
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Proper title put on for ya Atari :D

Nah there's no water in the head so I won't drop oils as it'd all be settled in the sump anyway.. Just first time really working on an engine for me, thought i'd better learn the basics when i'm younger (17) and do my own work. It helps a shitload when there's very wise and knowledgable blokes on a site such as this. :D

So yeah how do you remove the head after removing all bolts etc? Tap it with a BFH?

Cheers fellas.
Ryan.

And crunched, I'm going to check the head surface with a spirit level or something to ensure there's no warping etc. You think it's still worth getting it machined?

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 4:13 am 
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A spirit level will be about as useful as a cox flavoured lollypop :roll: Your head only needs to be warped by about the thickness of 2 piece's of plain A4 type copy paper to possibly cause you grief. If you can afford it get it skimmed at an engineering shop. GENTLE taps with a hammer should get it off the block. Good luck with it all. Ask questions, the vast majority of people on here have done a head or three in their time :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 4:13 am 
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SFH is usually all that is needed. Just tap it off. Don't forget to remove the timing gear.

Spirit level won't help you at all - a straight edge may give you a rough indication, but best to just take it away and get it done anyway.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 4:37 am 
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Do not hit with a steel hammer, use a rubber mallet or a piece of wood against the head, then the hammer, this will still give the shock loading you require, without the high density steel hammer coming in contact with the soft ally head.

Tread gently, don't be afraid, but don't be gung ho. Lots of little taps in different places.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 4:48 am 
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Rusho wrote:
A spirit level will be about as useful as a cox flavoured lollypop :roll: Your head only needs to be warped by about the thickness of 2 piece's of plain A4 type copy paper to possibly cause you grief. If you can afford it get it skimmed at an engineering shop. GENTLE taps with a hammer should get it off the block. Good luck with it all. Ask questions, the vast majority of people on here have done a head or three in their time :wink:


Cheers Rusho, Crunched and Suziblu. :) I'm on a very tight budget seeing as i'm in my last year of high school and I work a couple hours here and there at the local stockfeeds. I can afford gaskets, oils, some tools etc. I want to do the job properly and I have patience so I won't be going at it Gung Ho. :wink: I was going to use the spirit level as it has a wider flat base compared to the edge of a ruler and see if it rocks the tiniest bit. :)

All whacking has been done with a piece of timber (broken SFH handle), in between the hammer and the head. :twisted:

And where can I get the tool/s needed for the Valve stem seal replacement?? band how much am I looking at? I might see if one of the teachers that works on cars A LOT has a torque wrench and tha seal tool...

Cheers for everything fellas. Keep it coming. 8)

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:47 am 
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85Drover wrote:
Rusho wrote:
A spirit level will be about as useful as a cox flavoured lollypop :roll: Your head only needs to be warped by about the thickness of 2 piece's of plain A4 type copy paper to possibly cause you grief. If you can afford it get it skimmed at an engineering shop. GENTLE taps with a hammer should get it off the block. Good luck with it all. Ask questions, the vast majority of people on here have done a head or three in their time :wink:


Cheers Rusho, Crunched and Suziblu. :) I'm on a very tight budget seeing as i'm in my last year of high school and I work a couple hours here and there at the local stockfeeds. I can afford gaskets, oils, some tools etc. I want to do the job properly and I have patience so I won't be going at it Gung Ho. :wink: I was going to use the spirit level as it has a wider flat base compared to the edge of a ruler and see if it rocks the tiniest bit. :)

All whacking has been done with a piece of timber (broken SFH handle), in between the hammer and the head. :twisted:

And where can I get the tool/s needed for the Valve stem seal replacement?? band how much am I looking at? I might see if one of the teachers that works on cars A LOT has a torque wrench and tha seal tool...

Cheers for everything fellas. Keep it coming. 8)


You need a decent straight edge not a spirit level. A small edge is better than the wide flat base of the level.

You will need a valve spring compressor to change the valve stem seals. There are tools available to remove the springs without removing the head but it's too late for that now.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:57 am 
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Cheers Ball.

I have to replace the head gasket anyway so i'll see if I can pick up a valve spring compressor from a shop or a mate.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:11 am 
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85Drover wrote:
Cheers Ball.

I have to replace the head gasket anyway so i'll see if I can pick up a valve spring compressor from a shop or a mate.


You should be able to pick up a cheap and nasty one for $30-$40. It will work but you wouldn't want to use it everyday.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:14 am 
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Alright awesome. :D I don't plan on using it regularly.. Bloody hope I don't have to anyway.

Thanks again.
Ryan.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:12 am 
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Have a looky here.

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... valve+stem

A few piccys of when I did it. The thing I did wrong was tap the valve stem seals on realy only need to push them on firmly. Have a good read of the service maual from the download section.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:51 am 
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i find it waaay better to use a rubber mallet to remove stuff, it tends to distribute force slightly better...

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:02 am 
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DMAC wrote:
Have a looky here.

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... valve+stem

A few piccys of when I did it. The thing I did wrong was tap the valve stem seals on realy only need to push them on firmly. Have a good read of the service maual from the download section.


Cheers DMAC, you're a champ.

I got link for the service manual for an 85 Drover off Bruce about a week ago. I've since been reading through it and taking notes. :P

I'll be sure to use a rubber mallet once I get the timing gear off. ;)

Thanks again fellas.

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