[chris_mac]

G'day

I'm in the process of changing rear main, front crankshaft and camshaft seal, rocker cover gasket, that's, what I discovered:

1. camshaft and crankshaft centre bolts were hard to undo, looks like some locktite was used, I haven't moved crankshaft or camshaft more than 10mm by undoing the bolts, and than moved back to 1st cylinder TDC.
Should I use medium strength blue locktite for centre bolts when assembling or not?

2. as far as i read in manuals v marks on puleys should mach with marks on engine block (crankshaft) and camshaft cover (camshaft) so they point upward. I have what you can see below, camshaft sprocket v mark is facing down towards crankshaft instead of upward mathcing v mark on camshaft cover. its 180 degree out. I've driven like that since i bought the car (3.5 years) never new about it. so am i wrong and that is all right or it's fucked up? why someone could do such a thing? what could happened with engine running like that.
car runs rich, and with G16a engine, gearbox and sierra t-case with 4.9 an 31' tyres tacho reads 2500-2600RPM at 100km/h. is it because timing is like that?



3. camshaft seal leaks for sure:



4. crankshaft seal leaks? i don't know:



should i replace it?

5. it looks like it leaks oil from seal around dipstick tube, can I use sealant to fix it?



6. tensioner was dirty with some oil/dirt residue, i cleaned it but it has slight play, should i replace it?

dirty tensioner:



cleaned tensioner:





7. that's what i discovered after removing rocker cover!!!!!!!! two of the rocker arm shaft retainnig screws missing and sitting in the corner, one totally busted.







busted screws:




where i can get the screw from?

8. what should I do, check more things?
I checked valve clearance and is to tight on 2 first intake valves (0.1mm), within limit on 1st exhaust valve(0.2mm) and to loose (0.23mm) on 3rd exhaust valve., cant check the rest yet.

9. can you tel if i have G16a or G13a head on my engine?

I appreciate any help. manuals and you guys are my only knowlegde, I'm learning about engine as i go, and i have full seal and gsk set for the engine.

cheers

Chris

[lump_a_charcoal]

Wow Chris, that screw got chewed up for sure!
I would be draining the oil, and pulling off the sump, just to make sure no more metal got down there.

Also check to see what damage that screw might have caused when it was squashed.

Also, while you have everything apart, i would replace every seal you can get to. Also check the water pump and if it is a bit suss, replace it too (if it is like 1.3s, where the timing belt needs to come off first).

[BlueSuzy]

1. No you shouldnt have to.

2. I would put it to the original settings. Can the pulley go on 2 ways?

3. Replace it

4. Replace it

5. Undo the tap, and pull it out. I think its only an o-ring. Either replace it or silicone it.

6. These should be replaced with every new timing belt. If the bearing turns rough, Replace it. If it has play, Replace it.

7. OMGWTFBBQ . Do as Lumpa said. You should be able to get replacement bolts from a bolt supplier. Not bunnings.

8. No idea, You have a manual? I can build, but motors i have never played with, except for replace them.

9. The main difference would be the valve sizes. But you wont be able to see them unless you take off the head.

10. Your doing good.

11. That is a big post!

[Zoook]

Hehe, that happended to my old engine luckily it was only one scew.

You will find the replacement screw here.
http://www.suzistore.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=1

[royce]

youve timed the motor wrong, every turn the crank does is half a turn on the cam, so if you were to spin the crank another full turn the cam would line up.

when you reassemble put the belt on and spin the crank 360 degrees clockwise and check it all lines up

youll need a new tensioner as well

[chris_mac]

royce wrote:

youve timed the motor wrong, every turn the crank does is half a turn on the cam, so if you were to spin the crank another full turn the cam would line up.

Royce, I'm not sure if I understood you, I didn't set up timing at all, it's like that since i bought it.
Do you mean be timing the motor setting up TDC on first cylinder? I turned crankshaft till a notch in crankshaft pulley was aligned with 0 on timing belt cover and distributor rotor was pointing the mark I made on distributor body below terminal one. are you saying that if I did turn crankshaft one more time (360deg) all would lined up?

[royce]

yep, for the marks on the pulleys to line up by the book you need to be on compression no4, not 1

[jonno_racing]

it should still run tho! and be fine to time. as long as you dont need to time your dizzy.

[royce]

of course it runs but you cant check youve got the cam timing right cause there is no mark to line it too

[chris_mac]

royce wrote:

yep, for the marks on the pulleys to line up by the book you need to be on compression no4, not 1

thanks Royce, I'll do it when assembling. Can I adjust valve clearance by my myself without any special tools? if so if the spec are for cold 0.13-0.17mm for intake and 0.16-0.20 what should i adjust to middle range like 0.15mm and 0.18mm?

lump_a_charcoal wrote:

Also check the water pump and if it is a bit suss, replace it too (if it is like 1.3s, where the timing belt needs to come off first).

what do I check in the water pump? there is no play on the pulley, however it doesn't spin freely like lets say alternator. if i remove it can I use ultra blue RTV sealant from permatex for water pump or it is only for sump and valve covers?

[royce]

yes to valve clearance, jsut get it within range, its pretty hard to be specific and re check each one after doing up the locknut, they will move a bit

if the drain hole on the pump isnt leaking I would leave it, but you ll need a gasket if you pull it off